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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Question The dreaded leaking air bag!!!!

    .


    Well I've discovered that I have an air bag that loses pressure.

    First I want to check the fittings with a soapy solution, and the bag itself with same. The best way to get to all these would be?????

    Thanks in advance,
    Lew L
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    Sorry for your discovery.
    Wish I had a serious answer for you.
    Previous posts listed a loose or defective Schrader valve as a cause.

    The most novel repair idea that I read (Facebook) was give it a shot of Slime or some other leak repair solution.

    I'll be watching this post progression for serious answers.
    Good Luck and let me know if you need help.
    David C
    2016 F3T
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  3. #3
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    The only time I ever saw the bag itself leaking was due to small stones/fine gravel under the very bottom of the bag...They wear small holes where the bottom of the bag mounts...If this is the case the only fix is a new bag...If you need a new bag be sure to install a fernco cup under the new bag...You will also need a slightly longer metric bolt...Most of the leaks are at those push lock fittings...Some had check valves leaking back...And there were a few with schreader valves leaking...Do a search, this topic has many posts...larryd


    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...up+for+air+bag

    You can get limited access from the right side...Easies place to start...You can get better access if you remove the rear tire...You get the BEST access if you remove the rear section of the bike...There is a U-tube video for this option...


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEpRbdH3HE0

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    .

    Thanks LarryD and David,

    Got a ryde scheduled to Truckee, Ca. tomorrow and them I may dive in. Checked the schrader valve ( easy ) but it couldn't be that easy. THe links Larry gave in this thread will help A LOT. Any other links are more than welcome..

    Lew L
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lew L View Post
    .

    Thanks LarryD and David,

    Got a ryde scheduled to Truckee, Ca. tomorrow and them I may dive in. Checked the schrader valve ( easy ) but it couldn't be that easy. THe links Larry gave in this thread will help A LOT. Any other links are more than welcome..

    Lew L
    You can also remove, clean & inspect the check valve on the outlet side of the compressor with the right side center panel removed...Do the easy things first...larryd

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Bensonoid's Avatar
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    I cleaned my check valve but that wasn't my problem. It ended up being the solenoid valve. They are both accessible from the same side. I took the valve apart and cleaned it now all is well.
    2015 RTS Special Series
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member taxmyzer's Avatar
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    When my compressor failed for the second time I replaced it with Viair 95C. I had to drill & tap new holes to spin the check valve 180 degrees this was simple to do. I also replaced the section of air line going into the check valve. Others on the forum used Viair 97C this unit was reported to cause fuses to blow as it draws higher current than OE. The 95c draws the same current as OE and works great it's been on my bike nearly a year with no issues. The system is finally working the way it was meant to work. If you end up taking the bike apart I would replace the compressor.

    Ride safe!
    2022 Sea-T0-Sky

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryd View Post
    You can also remove, clean & inspect the check valve on the outlet side of the compressor with the right side center panel removed...Do the easy things first...larryd
    Thanks---- that's next. Is the solenoid valve mentioned above attainable without the trunk removal???
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bensonoid View Post
    I cleaned my check valve but that wasn't my problem. It ended up being the solenoid valve. They are both accessible from the same side. I took the valve apart and cleaned it now all is well.
    Is this part attached to the air manifold " block"??????
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haze View Post
    Sorry for your discovery.
    Wish I had a serious answer for you.
    Previous posts listed a loose or defective Schrader valve as a cause.

    The most novel repair idea that I read (Facebook) was give it a shot of Slime or some other leak repair solution.

    I'll be watching this post progression for serious answers.
    Good Luck and let me know if you need help.
    Thanks for the thought Dave but I trust FB as far as I could throw the

    Sure seems like adding this to the system would gum up the solenoid and check valves.
    A short cut I wouldn't take.
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Bensonoid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lew L View Post
    Is this part attached to the air manifold " block"??????
    I called it a solenoid valve but it is in fact the manifold. The part with the wires coming out of it can be separated from the manifold to gain access and clean it. I wiped mine out with a Q tip and blew it out with air, there was crud in there. The air line that comes out of the check valve goes directly to it, then a line goes to the schrader valve, and one goes to the airbag. If you take the middle panel off on the right side you can easily access the check valve and manifold. At least that's how it is on mine.
    2015 RTS Special Series
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lew L View Post
    Thanks for the thought Dave but I trust FB as far as I could throw the

    Sure seems like adding this to the system would gum up the solenoid and check valves.
    A short cut I wouldn't take.
    Hey Lew.
    This was meant to be humor not a serious attempt at repair. .
    We share the same feeling about FB advice.
    I'll be watching as I need to stockpile ideas for when the air bag on my F3T needs repair.
    David C
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    If you was getting tired of dealing with the air bag crap, you could go with a aftermarket shock and say by, by bag, and compressor altogether!! Just a thought, that system in my book is not all that is cracked up to be!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  14. #14
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    Lets hope its a check valve.....plz keep us updated....I really dont wanna learn how to take the whole back end off
    2012 RTL 14 RTS , Pearl White @ Pearl White

  15. #15
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    do they have a rear shock that works=my victory vision has the worst air shock system and the fix is an 800$ penske shock (no air)
    that's rebuildable.....my vision holds air fine but it's finicky and the ride is questionable on the rear at times...both my RTs are in working order and I'm hoping they stay that way ...BAKER Wings sells a compressor if that goes out but its mounted in the RT trunk and IDK seems a bit lame but its only 200$
    2012 RTL 14 RTS , Pearl White @ Pearl White

  16. #16
    Active Member mcalva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    If you was getting tired of dealing with the air bag crap, you could go with a aftermarket shock and say by, by bag, and compressor altogether!! Just a thought, that system in my book is not all that is cracked up to be!
    I did it to my RT 2011 Ltd. Pros: A lot less of garbage and much more reliable operation. Cons: More expensive but definitive.
    2018 F3 Ltd. , Black/Dark

  17. #17
    Very Active Member CopperSpyder's Avatar
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    Lew I had a problem with my system also and end up by passing the compressor and solenoid block. Remove the line from the solenoid block that goes to the air bag than remove the line on the solenoid that goes to the Schrader valve connect the two lines with a 1/8 npt coupling and just fill with air manually. I removed my Solenoid valve and link on the left side, saved for later if I want to replace compressor. Make sure and use some tape on threads to seal. I put 70 PSI in air bag for riding 2 up 50 to 60 is good solo. Just an option to keep in mind; but removing the fittings is not easy because of the sealant / Loctite they used on the threads. Good luck with your project.
    My Spyder
    2012 RTL , Brown

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