How do I change the sprocket and flywheel on my 2011 Can Am spyder RTS touring?

[Spyderweber3]

Hi everyone... does anyone have any advice on how to change the sprocket and flywheel on my 2011 Spyder RTS touring? Has anyone ever changed the parts listed below?

Part # 28 Teeth Sprocket
705501201 new part # 705502137

and

Flywheel
Part # 705501250

Thanks!

[Spyderweber3]

Hi everyone... does anyone have any advice on how to change the sprocket and flywheel on my 2011 Spyder RTS touring? Has anyone ever changed the parts listed below?

Part # 28 Teeth Sprocket
705501201 new part # 705502137

and

Flywheel
Part # 705501250

Thanks!

[Peter Aawen]

Can't offer any specific advice, but have you tried looking up the BRP Installation Instructions??

https://instructions.brp.com/e-instruction.html#tab=1

They aren't always the greatest, but you can enter a part number & search, getting any installation instructions that are available; or you might need to search on the assembly part details, product name, or try any other keywords you can think of?!? As mentioned, they aren't necessarily all that great, and there's not always something there, but hey, it's gotta be worth a try, isn't it?!

That said, can you tell us why you need to change these parts? That 28 tooth sprocket is the front drive sprocket isn't it?? Many with later models/1330 cc engines have had issues with them coming loose, but few have needed to do anything besides clean up the splines on the shaft the sprocket mounts onto, then fit a new sprocket with appropriate anti-fretting paste & a new bolt.... so what's up that you need to replace the flywheel too??

[pegasus1300]

I too was wondering why the change. The VTwins so far as I know haven't had any sprocket trouble and if you are changing sprocket sizes, how do you plan on making that work? No one yet has been able to do that. Sorry I can't give you any help on the actual process.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Spyderweber3. Actually, there has been very few issues with the RT sprockets - the ones that have the flywheel - from coming loose. I've often wondered if the flywheel had something to do with that. In other words, just because there is a new part number available, if it ain't broke.... And according to the shop manual, if you do change out the sprocket, it allows you to transfer the flywheel from the old sprocket to the new one. So, a little bit more about why you feel this is required might be helpful.

But otherwise, it's no big deal. Keep the belt on and parking brake on in order to loosen up the bolt. Loosen and remove belt. Then take everything off. Replace what you need to replace. Either use all new bolts that are coated with new thread locking compound, or clean and replace - medium. Put it all back together. Use the belt and parking brake to hold everything and re-torque. 125 N-M torque. Again, just reuse the old flywheel if it is serviceable. The manual does not call for anything applied to the shaft splines, but there is some information on here, pertaining to the Spyders with problems, about using a spline lube when assembling. Suppose it can't hurt.

28 tooth is the standard size for that year.

[Pandy]

Was just wondering as well what prompted this change.
David

[Mikey]

[Spyderweber3]

Thanks! I think that it happened last summer my rain gear fell out of my side compartment and got caught in the sprocket. I got all of the material out and everything appeared to be working well at the time. This year, when taking it to get the oil changed and a general inspection of the bike, the tech working on it noticed that the back shield of the sprocket had separated and recommended replacement. I've ordered the parts including a new washer and bolts, and it looks like a pretty direct fix. Thanks for the advice!

[Spyderweber3]

Got the new sprocket on.... all seems to be working well. Hopefully that will be the last thing that gets caught in the sprokect....