Because of an injured back, I only put about 1000-1500 miles on my 2016 F3 in 2020, after getting the F3 serviced (oil change, etc) at the start of the season.
Although the back still hurts, I hope to ryde some this year. Now, I have to get the state inspection done at the dealer anyway - so is it necessary or advisable to get another annual service done this year, given the low mileage since the last service?
Because of an injured back, I only put about 1000-1500 miles on my 2016 F3 in 2020, after getting the F3 serviced (oil change, etc) at the start of the season.
Although the back still hurts, I hope to ryde some this year. Now, I have to get the state inspection done at the dealer anyway - so is it necessary or advisable to get another annual service done this year, given the low mileage since the last service?
Thanks!
Bert.
I may be alone on this thinking, but I always look at the annual service as part of my insurance costs, no mater what mileage I put on. We’re looking at a lot of money spent for this machine, and this certainly is not the time to “cheap out”. This is, of course, only my opinion.
with fatboy. If the miles are low each year I wouldn't hesitate to go 2 or 3 seasons between services.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
with fatboy. If the miles are low each year I wouldn't hesitate to go 2 or 3 seasons between services.
Right on Idaho. The machine doesn't know what year it is. Or even what time it is or what day it is. It only knows how many miles it's been driven since the last service. Well, I guess our spyders do have clocks but we all know they don't keep accurate time.
Not “necessary” but wouldn’t hurt either. As mentioned above there is time & mileage intervals. Newer oils might last longer key word “MIGHT”. There are other items that get inspected & or least casually viewed in the process that also deserve attention. Performed by trusted individuals does help peace of mind
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Oil degrades over time, as well as with mileage. There’s a reason the manual has both a time and mileage figure in the service schedule.
I think the engineers who designed it understand it’s mechanical needs better than I do, so I see following the maintenance schedule as ‘cheap insurance’. I put a hockey-sock full of money into buying the things. I don’t want to find myself throwing even more money at major repairs because I tried to save a few dollars on maintenance.
In my opinion not worth the risk.
MWO (Ret'd) SJ Barnes
‘20 RTL Stone Grey
named Britannia in honour of EE Doc Smith’s
Grey Lensman’s ship.
Farkles:
Bestem Carplay
canamsypderaccessories hitch and wiring harness,
showchrome trunk rack,
12v AND dual USB direct to battery in the frunk,
dual USB switched in the blank console switch spot (parasites the power off the seat heater switch),
frunk lid organizer,
trunk organizer,
showchrome rider backrest,
ryder and passenger cup holders,
ram mount for the iPad mini I use for GPS
quadlock phone mount
Nautilus horn
Data blocker on the glove box USB
Big Bike Parts highway pegs
Spyderzone dash pouch
Convex mirrors
‘20 Ryker 900 (my wife’s ryde)
Farkles
Slingmods fwd/rev ‘suicide shifter’
frunk organizer
dual horn
Max mount
Rear seat with tall back rest (not mounted)
Ryder backrest (not mounted)
Side bag
Top bag
top bag makes a good backrest. Will swap on the rear seat if she ever wants to 2up
My opinion? It depends on how those "few miles" were put on.
If you did one 1000-mile trip, I would not worry about it. However, if you did 100 10-mile trips, the bike never really got up to temperature, so I would recommend changing oil and filter.
Since it has to go in for inspection anyway, I would say go ahead and get the service done. Otherwise, I would probably skip it. Part of that though is what ability you have to work on the Spyder yourself? Do you feel comfortable doing your own service like oil changes, checking and adjusting belt tension and alignment, checking for loose nuts/bolts and lug nut torque? I'm not making any judgement here, just thinking about what would need to be done and you have to judge for yourself your comfort level.
My Mods:
Elka Stage 5 rear shock with spring preload adjust
Monster Stage 2 ECU
Pedal Commander
RLS cat delete
Baja Ron sway bar
Baker Air Wings upper and lower
Viking saddle bags
Third pegs
Vredestein tires front and rear
Mad Stad windshield
X-creen windshield deflector
Front and rear drive cam
Garmin Zumo XT
Heated gear wiring
Lamonster LED headlights
Lamonster LED foglights
Lamonster frame mount cupholder
BRP heated handgrips
Lamonster drivers backrest
BRP passenger backrest
Lidlock handlebar end helmet locks
Barkbusters Storm handguards
Oil and filters are inexpensive compared to an engine. Oil sitting in bearings and such can go acidic and eat away at the bearings. Oil change in the fall or spring with the mileage you put on is good insurance. I change the oil in my car once a year because I do not put a lot of Kms on it. Use full synthetic that helps a bit as well. Like going to the dentist once a year for annual checkup and cleaning, don't want to but a necessary evil.
Another issue is the brake fluid, every two years should be changed. Brake fluid absorbs a lot of moisture. Here's a picture of what happens after a while when you don't change the brake fluid - the clutch slave from my '85 Honda Goldwing GL1200 Limited Edition. We don't generally pay attention to this with our cars, we should, but old habits die hard.
As an aside, should you decide to get out of riding and decide to sell your Spyder, a prospective buyer might ask the maintenance question, and you would be able to tell him that you rode very few miles each year, but it was serviced once a year at the dealer that included an annual oil/filter change. Always a good selling feature.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
If it will help you and your back to feel better, do it. But if you really want to know for sure, suck a little oil out and have it tested. Go to Napa and buy the test kit and mail it off. Much, much less expensive than an overpriced unneeded service.
I would perform the annual service as stated in the owners manual, especially if you still are under warranty:
EVERY 15 000 KM (9,300 MI) OR 1 YEAR (WHICHEVER COMES FIRST)
Perform all items indicated in the PRE-RIDE INSPECTION. Replace engine oil and oil filter.
Check clutch fluid level (SM6 model only). Check brake fluid level. Replace every 2 years.
Check brake hoses
Check reverse mechanism operation.
Check radiator, hoses and water pump.
Check engine coolant level.
Perform a pressure test of cooling system.
Check operation of control switches and passenger switches.
Check condition of fuel hoses, fuel evaporation lines and canister.
Check battery connections tightening.
Check the drive belt condition and its tension
Check and retighten exhaust pipe, clamping rings, joints, and gaskets condition.
Check steering for abnormal play.
Check tie-rods condition.
Check shock absorbers for leaks or other damages.
Check tightening torque of the rear wheel axle nut.
Check ball joints condition.
Check front and rear wheel bearings condition.
Check brake pads and discs condition.
Check passenger handholds looseness.
Check footrests looseness.
Check body panels looseness.
Check operation of storage compartment latches, hinges and key barrels.
Remove front grill and clear all debris from radiator air duct.
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?