Absolutely Amazing after Installing BajaRon sway bar!

[carsong]

Is there an installation video for the F3 models? I really want to do this. (sway bar)

[AZCanAm]

Today I installed a Fox RC2, got a good deal, from a dealer who was in the midst of a move to a new venue,(else I would have bought Wilbers) been fiddlin with the settings this afternoon, and I am impressed.
Ride is better, not bottoming out when riding two up, and the ease of setup is also good. Still looking for the sweet spot, when riding solo, but AZCanam "the rear does need to be improved"

Appreciate the feedback.

[AZCanAm]

Is there an installation video for the F3 models? I really want to do this. (sway bar)

The instructions that come with the BajaRon sway bar from LaMonster garage is really good. The biggest key is getting the bike high enough off the ground. The reason for bike being high off the ground (~24 inches) is so the sway bar can easily slide out.

Feel free to PM me for a PH# and I can help you while you're doing it. It is really easy. Just have to have the right tools.

[Snoking1127]

I suggest have both a 10mm and 13mm flex head ratchet end wrench. A piece of 5/16 wood dowel or something else that diameter to hold the spacers in place. You push the dowel out with the bolt once you have the end lined up correctly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I was doing it again I would just order a full set of these metric end wrenches.

[AZCanAm]

In terms of the spacers, it was easy for me (not bragging). You push the screw in partly, then put the spacer on by back it up enough to get spacer positioned, then continue pushing the screw all the way thru.

I can't remember if it is the 10mm or the 13mm, but you will need two of them because otherwise the nut on the other side will spin. If I remember correctly, it was the shields near your foot that needs two wrenches. Personally I used a rachet and a wrench of the same size.

The kit does come with "super glue" if you want to set the spacers in place first.

[Snoking1127]

In terms of the spacers, it was easy for me (not bragging). You push the screw in partly, then put the spacer on by back it up enough to get spacer positioned, then continue pushing the screw all the way thru.

I can't remember if it is the 10mm or the 13mm, but you will need two of them because otherwise the nut on the other side will spin. If I remember correctly, it was the shields near your foot that needs two wrenches. Personally I used a rachet and a wrench of the same size.

The kit does come with "super glue" if you want to set the spacers in place first.

5/16 wooden dowel makes it very easy. Ron should include a piece in the kit.

[CA Railwhale]

Thanks Peter & Don.
For the moment I just ordered the front Vreds because I have not found a shop willing to mount the rear tire.
Discount tires will mount and balance the fronts though. They will arrive tomorrow and be on the Spyder by Wednesday.

Ridenow in Peoria AZ will mount and balance owner provided tires.

[Peteoz]

I am really hoping they work out. I may be hoping too hard. We'll see...

I couldn’t agree more, Ron.......when I get my new 21 RT (if they EVER reach Australia), I’ll be getting them shod with Kanines based on the feedback I’ve seen. That will eliminate a number of issues for me (also....if the Kanines EVER reach Australia
)

Pete

[AZCanAm]

I am getting the OEM rear tire replaced with Kanine's this Thursday the 29th. I will have some feedback by this weekend. Stay tuned!

[Snoking1127]

Ridenow in Peoria AZ will mount and balance owner provided tires.

Nash in Mesa did also.

[nycgordonf]

Just finished installing mine today. Abrupt manuvers and taking curves at higher speeds definitely feels more stable. Here are my photos of the install. Getting those plastic blocks sure was a pain in the butt though!

Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.34 PM.jpg
Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.29 PM.jpg

[fredgal]

Just finished installing mine today. Abrupt manuvers and taking curves at higher speeds definitely feels more stable. Here are my photos of the install. Getting those plastic blocks sure was a pain in the butt though!

Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.34 PM.jpg
Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.29 PM.jpg

about how long did the install take ? thanks, thinking of doing to my new f3 soon..

any pics of the oem swaybar for comparison.. thanks

[fredgal]

has anyone lifted there spyder up with a front end loader to install the swaybar. wondering if you could attach a strap to each side and lift the spyder up for the install, instead of ramps.. as i have a kuboda tractor with front loader on it.. just wondering if it has been done.. tks

[Gedge]

Just finished installing mine today. Abrupt manuvers and taking curves at higher speeds definitely feels more stable. Here are my photos of the install. Getting those plastic blocks sure was a pain in the butt though!

Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.34 PM.jpg
Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.29 PM.jpg

FYI, the long bolt should be on the bottom.

[MNF3]

Grew up on a farm with lots of machinery, including loaders. I would not do it that way. There is no way to safely block the loader arms. Too much of a chance of something going wrong. I know several people that died because of hydraulic failures.

[Piratezz]

@fredgal, I did it with a forklift, and I put a big block o wood under the gables, so it wouldn't drop on me, worked like a charm.
@MNF3, I still live to tell,

[BajaRon]

Just finished installing mine today. Abrupt manuvers and taking curves at higher speeds definitely feels more stable. Here are my photos of the install. Getting those plastic blocks sure was a pain in the butt though!

Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.34 PM.jpg
Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 7.43.29 PM.jpg

I am glad you like the bar. But I am afraid this is an unsafe install. As pointed out already, the long bolt goes on the bottom. I can see no threads out the end of the lower nut. The safety nylock feature is at the outer end of the nut. You need to have at least 2 full threads beyond the end of the nut to have an effective, and safe installation. I highly recommend swapping the bolts.

[Snoking1127]

Grew up on a farm with lots of machinery, including loaders. I would not do it that way. There is no way to safely block the loader arms. Too much of a chance of something going wrong. I know several people that died because of hydraulic failures.

You do not need to get under the Spyder to swap the bars themselves. Get is ready to slide out. Lift it for a minute, sliding out the old one and the new one in while standing next to it. Put is back on ramps or blocks to connect up the new one.

[nycgordonf]

I am glad you like the bar. But I am afraid this is an unsafe install. As pointed out already, the long bolt goes on the bottom. I can see no threads out the end of the lower nut. The safety nylock feature is at the outer end of the nut. You need to have at least 2 full threads beyond the end of the nut to have an effective, and safe installation. I highly recommend swapping the bolts.

Hmm, strange. The install guide clearly specified the included bolts should be used at the top. Wish I had a copy of the install guide but I tossed it.

I torqued them all quite well.

[Snoking1127]

I am glad you like the bar. But I am afraid this is an unsafe install. As pointed out already, the long bolt goes on the bottom. I can see no threads out the end of the lower nut. The safety nylock feature is at the outer end of the nut. You need to have at least 2 full threads beyond the end of the nut to have an effective, and safe installation. I highly recommend swapping the bolts.

Not only that, the lower bolt is suppose to the other direction so the non thread part is in the sway bar. Less chance of movement in the sway bar end that way!

Step 12. Using the LONGER 13mm Bolts supplied (Threads to the OUTSIDE), reattach the Lower Heim Joint Link to
one Sway Bar Arm and Tighten (#3) Diagram #2. VERY IMPORTANT! The Sway Bar Arm mounts to the
INSIDE of the Heim Joint Link. Repeat this process for the other side. If you have NOT installed the BajaRon
Billet Aluminum Heim Joint Links, Check the UPPER Link Bolts for tightness. Some have found them loose.

[BajaRon]

Hmm, strange. The install guide clearly specified the included bolts should be used at the top. Wish I had a copy of the install guide but I tossed it.

I torqued them all quite well.

I am glad to hear that you torqued the bolts correctly. However, without threads into and beyond the Nylock portion of the nut. Even correctly torqued, this connection could back out. Neither of us wants that. The reason I supply the longer bolt in this bar kit is precisely because the original bolt is too short to make a secure connection with the new, thicker sway bar.

Again, I highly recommend swapping these bolts. I am not saying it WILL come apart. But doing this will insure that everything stays put as designed. The manufacturer, and myself, use Nylock nuts for a reason. But they are not magic. For them to work as designed, they must have at least 2 threads beyond the Nylock portion of the nut.

As for the bar kit instructions. I can send you another set if you like. In any case, these are the installation steps in question. I am posting this in the interests of safety only. Not to embarrass or call anyone out. When installed correctly, I firmly believe this bar kit improves the overall safety of the machine. It sounds like you went to great lengths to do this install correctly. It just needs a bit of tweaking.

I have highlighted the pertinent portions in red here. They are not red on the instruction sheet. If there is anything else I can do, please let me know.

6. Replacing the OEM Plastic End Links – See Picture on Page 4 - Upper Connection Point Only!
Install the New BajaRon End Links Using the original Nut & Bolt. You will secure the top connection only at this time.

13. Installing the BajaRon Heim Joint Links. - Sway Bar Connection Point Only!
As with the upper End Link Connection, place one 8mm Stainless Steel spacer (supplied) on each side of each End Link bearing. Because this is an open connection, you will not find it necessary to use Super Glue for this step.
You will be Using the LONGER 13mm Bolt & NyLock Nut (supplied). Attach the Lower Heim Joint Link to the Sway Bar Arm (Threads to the INSIDE) and Tighten

[AZCanAm]

I am really hoping they work out. I may be hoping too hard. We'll see...

So far so good with the Kanine rear tire. Definitely feels more stable at highway speeds (satisfied). So much so, I am kinda regretting ordering the stage 2 Elka's to replace the rear coil-over.

The Kanine is a nice improvement over the stock OEM's but pretty much anything is.
The next review will be after I install the stage 2 Elka rear shock.

[fredgal]

Grew up on a farm with lots of machinery, including loaders. I would not do it that way. There is no way to safely block the loader arms. Too much of a chance of something going wrong. I know several people that died because of hydraulic failures.

i will lift it with straps to my bucket, then support the bucket with a couple 4x4's so it cant drop.. when the time comes..

[fredgal]

is there a link to a PDF file for install for the F3-limited.somewhere,, unable to locate one.. tks.

[fatboy]

i used fork lift push forks to cradle tire works great