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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by greg1867 View Post
    can I ask you where in europe you ordered the parts from? The new version pulley is on back order until June.
    Well ordered from my local BRP dealer here which told me they had to order from the factory.

    Should have been delivered 30/04 but now they are saying 12/05 instead... Hope I haven't to wait a more few days... :/
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  2. #27
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    So still with the old failing sprocket... Done a short ride today to burn a bit of old fuel not before checking if there were any play on the pulley, which there wasn't.

    While taking off on a steep hill I definitely felt it like it was slipping in first gear for 2 or 3 seconds then it vigorously took off... Should this be related to the failing sprocket?
    I think I've felt recently this behavior a couple of times before when maneuvering... Like if the accelerator got stuck for a few seconds... It's on ECO mode, anyone had this behavior?

    Anyway not driving it any more until a swap that damned sprocket.
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  3. #28
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    Took the old sprocket out... Thank God it went out nicely after applying a bit of WD-40.



    Axle is good and the sprocket teeth's don't seem to be that bad also, but I'm guessing after the red dust comes it should go south quickly...





    So now I'm concerned about that accelerator slipping I felt... Well, one problem at a time...
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    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  4. #29
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    So one month later it was finally delivered.

    20210521_104027.jpg

    Now I just need some time to put all back in place.

    Thanks for the help.
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  5. #30
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    Is there any special alignment with the shaft it should have?

    Can't see any markings on the shaft but the sprocket seems to have some markings.
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  6. #31
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Just lube it and torq it down!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  7. #32
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    anyone know what the torque specs are? Ive seen several different answers.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by greg1867 View Post
    anyone know what the torque specs are? Ive seen several different answers.
    It was 125Nm/92lb/ft but was increased recently to 150Nm/111lb/ft (on a TSB).
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Just lube it and torq it down!
    Thanks!
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  10. #35
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    Cleaned, lubed and torqued to recommended 111lb/ft (I'll still mark the sprocket and bolt to check if there's any movement).

    20210522_105314.jpg

    Belt tension seems to not have changed and still at 180lb/ft

    20210522_105335.jpg

    Was actually an easy job... Just need to ride it now and see if all seems normal.

    Thanks everyone for the help.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-31-2021 at 08:30 PM. Reason: lubbed??
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  11. #36
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Good Luck keep us posted on how this NEW sprocket works out for you!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  12. #37
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    OK ridden about 300km/186mi with the new sprocket and here are my thoughts.

    Seems to shift quieter... just a little bit.
    There's kind of a swoosh when coasting.
    Didn't noticed any shudder.

    I'll check the markings on the sprocket later to see if there's any movement but all seems right now
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  13. #38
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    Over 1500km/930mi later...

    Checked the sprocket a couple of times markings seem to be at right place.

    Might be me... Not sure what BRP did with this new sprocket but for me the previous sprocket seemed to run quieter...

    Had no whistle before and this new sprocket seems to swoosh more that the before.
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black Satin

  14. #39
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    Hello all, I just received the new white front pulley, bolt and washer for my 2015 F3. What is the recommended torque for the bolt? Thanks in advance...Clint
    2015 F3 , OEM None Black

  15. #40
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    See post # 33 or #35



    2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl

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  16. #41
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    Per my research on this issue, the problem (fretting) occurs due to movement between the splines of the pulley and the output shaft and concentrated pressure, causing microscopic friction points that temporary weld then fracture, creating the "red dust" phenomenon. The cure: lubricate the splines or immobilize the movement between the splines. My plan: If/when I find evidence of fretting, I will replace the pulley and apply Loctite 660 retaining compound to immobilize the pulley to output shaft interface. In the mean time, I run belt tension on the low side to mitigate the pressure on the splines. So far, so good at 9,300 miles.

    pulley3.jpg

  17. #42
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    Hello guys and gals. Just finished installing a new front sprocket, washer, and bolt, on my 2015 F3. There was a little evidence of red dust, but not too bad. Everything torqued to specs, again not too bad, however getting the belt to line up and not touch the inside flange of the rear sprocket was another thing. After quite some time, I was able to get the belt, just barely off of the inside flange. Just have to go for a ride now, and see how the belt reacts. I installed a vibration dampener, LED fog lights, and LED Headlights. I would like to thank everyone for your help and information. Thanks again...Clint
    2015 F3 , OEM None Black

  18. #43
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    Well, reading about all the failures of these drive sprockets, I decided this morning to head down to the cave and see what all this hype is about.
    Took the plastic cover off expecting to find a sprocket covered in red oxide dust. Not a spec to be found. Sprocket manufacture date says 2015 on it. 8000 miles on it.
    Maybe I got a got one out of batch of heat treated ones and then the furnace broke down for the rest of them. JK
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  19. #44
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    Okay, time to pull my head out of the sand, go pull my cover, and check.

  20. #45
    Active Member malibu_dan's Avatar
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    All clear. No dreaded red dust, 13k miles.

  21. #46
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    Default Front Sprocket Replacement (Red Dust)

    Recently replaced the front/drive sprocket on my wife's '18 F3-T and thought I would pass on the info that I ended up putting together. She started hearing a rattle at low speed during deceleration. Pulled the cover and sure enough, Red Dust of Death on the sprocket.

    Parts...
    Did some checking, revised sprocket is part #705503239 and bolt #250001017. Part of the problem is getting the sprocket & bolt in a reasonable amount of time. In Vegas, nobody seems to stock it on the shelf and would need to be ordered out of Canada. When I checked on-line, I found every place I contacted said the same, would be ordered out of Canada. With ordering to Canada, everyone seems to be saying to expect 3-4 weeks to get the parts. When I talked to a local dealer, they were able to search inventory of other dealers and gave me a couple that listed as having in stock. Found a dealer in Texas that had the parts on the shelf and was at my door in 4 days.

    Assembly...
    There is a lot of info on what to use during reassembly. The latest info from Can-Am is to use a Moly Paste. This is an assembly lubricant. My research has shown there are only two products that should be used 1) Kluber - Kluberpaste 46 MR 401 (this is what Can-Am calls for) or 2) Loctite Moly Paste (also known as Loctite 8012). DO NOT use any other Loctite products. I was not able to find anybody in Vegas that had stock of any moly paste. Turns out, Can-Am now sells the Kluberpaste under Can-Am part #420297616. Dealer ordered it for me, had it in 2 days.

    I hope this info is helpful to someone.

  22. #47
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iskion1 View Post
    Recently replaced the front/drive sprocket on my wife's '18 F3-T and thought I would pass on the info that I ended up putting together. She started hearing a rattle at low speed during deceleration. Pulled the cover and sure enough, Red Dust of Death on the sprocket.

    Parts...
    Did some checking, revised sprocket is part #705503239 and bolt #250001017. Part of the problem is getting the sprocket & bolt in a reasonable amount of time. In Vegas, nobody seems to stock it on the shelf and would need to be ordered out of Canada. When I checked on-line, I found every place I contacted said the same, would be ordered out of Canada. With ordering to Canada, everyone seems to be saying to expect 3-4 weeks to get the parts. When I talked to a local dealer, they were able to search inventory of other dealers and gave me a couple that listed as having in stock. Found a dealer in Texas that had the parts on the shelf and was at my door in 4 days.

    Assembly...
    There is a lot of info on what to use during reassembly. The latest info from Can-Am is to use a Moly Paste. This is an assembly lubricant. My research has shown there are only two products that should be used 1) Kluber - Kluberpaste 46 MR 401 (this is what Can-Am calls for) or 2) Loctite Moly Paste (also known as Loctite 8012). DO NOT use any other Loctite products. I was not able to find anybody in Vegas that had stock of any moly paste. Turns out, Can-Am now sells the Kluberpaste under Can-Am part #420297616. Dealer ordered it for me, had it in 2 days.

    I hope this info is helpful to someone.
    Kluber Paste is not moly fortified.
    FWIW Can Am previously advised adhesive bonding the pulley to the shaft using a Loctite retaining compound. They followed this by stating to use Kluber Paste. Per your info, Can Am finally pulled their head from their backside and read posts here from at least 2017 until now and recommends moly paste. Pretty typical Can Am...

    Sadly, it does not appear Can Am has made this a required maintenance item to accomplish a remove, clean, inspect and reinstall wet if the pulley is serviceable. At a minimum, if not sooner, this needs to be accomplished at the 28k filter change, but I believe it should be sooner than that.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Kluber Paste is not moly fortified.
    FWIW Can Am previously advised adhesive bonding the pulley to the shaft using a Loctite retaining compound. They followed this by stating to use Kluber Paste. Per your info, Can Am finally pulled their head from their backside and read posts here from at least 2017 until now and recommends moly paste. Pretty typical Can Am...

    Sadly, it does not appear Can Am has made this a required maintenance item to accomplish a remove, clean, inspect and reinstall wet if the pulley is serviceable. At a minimum, if not sooner, this needs to be accomplished at the 28k filter change, but I believe it should be sooner than that.
    SpyderDeb's 2018 F3-l failed b4 21K miles, while my 2015 F3-S was in excellent shape yet at over 32K miles (I do not baby it). One of the differences, aside from the year of manufacture, was that the F3-L pulled a trailer for ~25% miles. I bought a 2018 F3-T with very low miles: it was looking dry and had some surface rust on top of the splines at ~2K miles. Absolutely agree with your recommendation to do the inspection and lube earlier that 28K.
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  24. #49
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Default another one bites the dust, front sprocket failure

    FWIW, The Honda moly assembly paste is a high moly paste used on drive shafts and rear drives. Readily available at your local Honda parts center for ~ $20.00 a tube.

    Al in Kazoo
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  25. #50
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    Well another one. one of my friends 2020 F3 had a new "white" front fitted 3 moths ago and its already showing signs (noise and dust) He is 80+ years old, no throttle jockey, doesn't tow a trailer, doesn't take a pillion (doesn't need to seems to have a woman in every town we visit ). I was thinking it was my imagination that mine was noisy, fitted 3000kms ago and BINGO - its flogging out. I'm on my 3rd.

    SO BRP? Do we have to add to the service schedule - right after the oil change "replace front drive sprocket", or would it be better near the fuelling instructions, after all we seem to be doing these in between oil changes and fuel stops.

    BETTER STILL GET YOUR **** RIGHT!!!
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