So still with the old failing sprocket... Done a short ride today to burn a bit of old fuel not before checking if there were any play on the pulley, which there wasn't.
While taking off on a steep hill I definitely felt it like it was slipping in first gear for 2 or 3 seconds then it vigorously took off... Should this be related to the failing sprocket?
I think I've felt recently this behavior a couple of times before when maneuvering... Like if the accelerator got stuck for a few seconds... It's on ECO mode, anyone had this behavior?
Anyway not driving it any more until a swap that damned sprocket.
Hello all, I just received the new white front pulley, bolt and washer for my 2015 F3. What is the recommended torque for the bolt? Thanks in advance...Clint
Per my research on this issue, the problem (fretting) occurs due to movement between the splines of the pulley and the output shaft and concentrated pressure, causing microscopic friction points that temporary weld then fracture, creating the "red dust" phenomenon. The cure: lubricate the splines or immobilize the movement between the splines. My plan: If/when I find evidence of fretting, I will replace the pulley and apply Loctite 660 retaining compound to immobilize the pulley to output shaft interface. In the mean time, I run belt tension on the low side to mitigate the pressure on the splines. So far, so good at 9,300 miles.
Hello guys and gals. Just finished installing a new front sprocket, washer, and bolt, on my 2015 F3. There was a little evidence of red dust, but not too bad. Everything torqued to specs, again not too bad, however getting the belt to line up and not touch the inside flange of the rear sprocket was another thing. After quite some time, I was able to get the belt, just barely off of the inside flange. Just have to go for a ride now, and see how the belt reacts. I installed a vibration dampener, LED fog lights, and LED Headlights. I would like to thank everyone for your help and information. Thanks again...Clint
Well, reading about all the failures of these drive sprockets, I decided this morning to head down to the cave and see what all this hype is about.
Took the plastic cover off expecting to find a sprocket covered in red oxide dust. Not a spec to be found. Sprocket manufacture date says 2015 on it. 8000 miles on it.
Maybe I got a got one out of batch of heat treated ones and then the furnace broke down for the rest of them. JK
Recently replaced the front/drive sprocket on my wife's '18 F3-T and thought I would pass on the info that I ended up putting together. She started hearing a rattle at low speed during deceleration. Pulled the cover and sure enough, Red Dust of Death on the sprocket.
Parts...
Did some checking, revised sprocket is part #705503239 and bolt #250001017. Part of the problem is getting the sprocket & bolt in a reasonable amount of time. In Vegas, nobody seems to stock it on the shelf and would need to be ordered out of Canada. When I checked on-line, I found every place I contacted said the same, would be ordered out of Canada. With ordering to Canada, everyone seems to be saying to expect 3-4 weeks to get the parts. When I talked to a local dealer, they were able to search inventory of other dealers and gave me a couple that listed as having in stock. Found a dealer in Texas that had the parts on the shelf and was at my door in 4 days.
Assembly...
There is a lot of info on what to use during reassembly. The latest info from Can-Am is to use a Moly Paste. This is an assembly lubricant. My research has shown there are only two products that should be used 1) Kluber - Kluberpaste 46 MR 401 (this is what Can-Am calls for) or 2) Loctite Moly Paste (also known as Loctite 8012). DO NOT use any other Loctite products. I was not able to find anybody in Vegas that had stock of any moly paste. Turns out, Can-Am now sells the Kluberpaste under Can-Am part #420297616. Dealer ordered it for me, had it in 2 days.
Recently replaced the front/drive sprocket on my wife's '18 F3-T and thought I would pass on the info that I ended up putting together. She started hearing a rattle at low speed during deceleration. Pulled the cover and sure enough, Red Dust of Death on the sprocket.
Parts...
Did some checking, revised sprocket is part #705503239 and bolt #250001017. Part of the problem is getting the sprocket & bolt in a reasonable amount of time. In Vegas, nobody seems to stock it on the shelf and would need to be ordered out of Canada. When I checked on-line, I found every place I contacted said the same, would be ordered out of Canada. With ordering to Canada, everyone seems to be saying to expect 3-4 weeks to get the parts. When I talked to a local dealer, they were able to search inventory of other dealers and gave me a couple that listed as having in stock. Found a dealer in Texas that had the parts on the shelf and was at my door in 4 days.
Assembly...
There is a lot of info on what to use during reassembly. The latest info from Can-Am is to use a Moly Paste. This is an assembly lubricant. My research has shown there are only two products that should be used 1) Kluber - Kluberpaste 46 MR 401 (this is what Can-Am calls for) or 2) Loctite Moly Paste (also known as Loctite 8012). DO NOT use any other Loctite products. I was not able to find anybody in Vegas that had stock of any moly paste. Turns out, Can-Am now sells the Kluberpaste under Can-Am part #420297616. Dealer ordered it for me, had it in 2 days.
I hope this info is helpful to someone.
Kluber Paste is not moly fortified.
FWIW Can Am previously advised adhesive bonding the pulley to the shaft using a Loctite retaining compound. They followed this by stating to use Kluber Paste. Per your info, Can Am finally pulled their head from their backside and read posts here from at least 2017 until now and recommends moly paste. Pretty typical Can Am...
Sadly, it does not appear Can Am has made this a required maintenance item to accomplish a remove, clean, inspect and reinstall wet if the pulley is serviceable. At a minimum, if not sooner, this needs to be accomplished at the 28k filter change, but I believe it should be sooner than that.
Kluber Paste is not moly fortified.
FWIW Can Am previously advised adhesive bonding the pulley to the shaft using a Loctite retaining compound. They followed this by stating to use Kluber Paste. Per your info, Can Am finally pulled their head from their backside and read posts here from at least 2017 until now and recommends moly paste. Pretty typical Can Am...
Sadly, it does not appear Can Am has made this a required maintenance item to accomplish a remove, clean, inspect and reinstall wet if the pulley is serviceable. At a minimum, if not sooner, this needs to be accomplished at the 28k filter change, but I believe it should be sooner than that.
SpyderDeb's 2018 F3-l failed b4 21K miles, while my 2015 F3-S was in excellent shape yet at over 32K miles (I do not baby it). One of the differences, aside from the year of manufacture, was that the F3-L pulled a trailer for ~25% miles. I bought a 2018 F3-T with very low miles: it was looking dry and had some surface rust on top of the splines at ~2K miles. Absolutely agree with your recommendation to do the inspection and lube earlier that 28K.
pauly1 - SpyderDeb's 'wrench'
2018 F3-T & 2015 F3-S Road Warrior Foundation Tribute customs
IBA #48220 SS1000 BB1500
another one bites the dust, front sprocket failure
FWIW, The Honda moly assembly paste is a high moly paste used on drive shafts and rear drives. Readily available at your local Honda parts center for ~ $20.00 a tube.
Al in Kazoo
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
Well another one. one of my friends 2020 F3 had a new "white" front fitted 3 moths ago and its already showing signs (noise and dust) He is 80+ years old, no throttle jockey, doesn't tow a trailer, doesn't take a pillion (doesn't need to seems to have a woman in every town we visit ). I was thinking it was my imagination that mine was noisy, fitted 3000kms ago and BINGO - its flogging out. I'm on my 3rd.
SO BRP? Do we have to add to the service schedule - right after the oil change "replace front drive sprocket", or would it be better near the fuelling instructions, after all we seem to be doing these in between oil changes and fuel stops.