Another one bytes the dust... Front Sprocket Failure - Red Dust!
We're just going out of lockdown here (Portugal, Western Europe), doing a little Spring maintenance and just found this...
Totally aware of the problem been doing routine checks at 5000km/3100mi intervals.
For stats it's a 2018 F3-S euro model with 27000km/16777mi not using any belt tensioner, kept in a garage and driven 80% with no rain and mostly two-up.
Now I could take it to the dealer and have them replaced the pulley or I could do it myself...
705503239 is the sprocket. 250001017 is the flanged bolt.
Doubt you will need the puller.
I used Honda M77 molly paste. Not sure on Loc-Tite numbers
... be very careful what paste you use I don't think Anti-seize compound is going to work .... and PRP had the same issue and used some WD-40 on the shaft and it slid right off .... be sure to get the splines Clean before using the Moly ..... good luck .... Mike
I used this paste on mine after premature pulley failure at 10k miles. I blame the dealer for the initial issue, but had them add this Loctite branded moly paste and reduce my belt tension. I've put 5k miles on it since. Still looks the same, just dust from dirt collecting on it..
I just did mine last weekend. 2015 F3S with only 6700 miles. From the outside it looked ok but I had already purchased the new white pulley so decided to pull the old pulley, you will definately need a puller, I bought an $18 gear puller at auto parts store said it fit 4 inch gear and it was perfect. There I could see the red dust starting to form. I am glad to catch it when I was ready to deal with it. Took the bolt out with tire on ground and break on, raised the rear tire and rolled the belt off, pulled the pulley and then reversed the steps. I used the Honda 77 paste and was very carefull to clean the shaft well. Be sure to torque the bolt properly, i think 115. Not a difficult task. Good luck.
I don't know if this will help. BPR recommends Kluberpaste 46 MR 401. It my be easier for you to find.
Sorry, but while it may be more readily available, the stuff does not hold up or last. My opinion is using Kluberpaste makes the reinspection and relube interval to be accomplished at each oil change.
Kind of interesting to see you finding references to percentage of moly in the paste. Not sure where that info came from.
From experience using various moly pastes, assembly lubes, and greases, I would be more focused on a moly product that retains some viscosity vs drying out or so thin it runs out. Often it seems higher densities of moly tend kind of gum up, while greases tend to dry up as the carrier base is worn away.
Of the products you listed, my choice would be the Honda 77 which should be Molykote77.
Regardless, Crisco cooking lard would likely outperform Kluberpaste.
Now if Honda M77 is Molykote M77 then I think it may have other issues as the datasheet states:
"Suitable for lubrication points with low to moderate loads and low speeds that are subjected to water and extreme temperatures; at
temperatures above 230°C (446°F), the carrier volatilizes leaving virtually no residue, and the remaining dry sliding film itself takes over the lubrication up to +400°C (+662°F).
Suitable for lubricating parts consisting of materials that are not resistant to mineral oils.
Used successfully on metal/metal combinations with frictional and contact surfaces, brake anchor plates and the brake pistons of disc brakes."
Now if Honda M77 is Molykote M77 then I think it may have other issues as the datasheet states:
"Suitable for lubrication points with low to moderate loads and low speeds that are subjected to water and extreme temperatures; at
temperatures above 230°C (446°F), the carrier volatilizes leaving virtually no residue, and the remaining dry sliding film itself takes over the lubrication up to +400°C (+662°F).
Suitable for lubricating parts consisting of materials that are not resistant to mineral oils.
Used successfully on metal/metal combinations with frictional and contact surfaces, brake anchor plates and the brake pistons of disc brakes."
EdMat, looking to replace the front sprocket and bolt on my 2015 F3, I did not find the above mentioned part numbers on BRP website, please advise as to where I can find them, thanks in advance...Clint
The use of a lubricant implies that the pulley is loose and is being worn away(red dust) if the lubricant is omitted. Why not put bearing mount adhesive, or something similar, to "secure" it???
EdMat, looking to replace the front sprocket and bolt on my 2015 F3, I did not find the above mentioned part numbers on BRP website, please advise as to where I can find them, thanks in advance...Clint
cheapcycleparts.com is here i got mine. you could also try brppartshouse.com
If anyone cares to learn more about spline drives, this is a great short engineering article. While I know many believe Can Am screwed it up and the drive pulley should be a no maintenance last forever item, this article gives insight as to why the pulleys fail.
I posted this years ago here on Spyderlovers and have dealt with high performance splines for decades. Continuously others with minimal or no experience on the subject debate spline wear and pulley failures. I did not write this article, nor ever dealt with DanFoss. Simply a very accurate and informative article that may help guide those owners open minded enough to understand the splines are a maintenance item requiring routine inspection and relubrication after cleaning.
Another one bytes the dust... Front Sprocket Failure - Red Dust!
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Originally Posted by EdMat
... be very careful what paste you use I don't think Anti-seize compound is going to work .... and PRP had the same issue and used some WD-40 on the shaft and it slid right off .... be sure to get the splines Clean before using the Moly ..... good luck .... Mike 
