Update on suspension setup with new M2 shocks. Set the ground clearance height at 4.25" using the frame as a reference point. I used a point 2" in front of the imaginary line between the two front wheels similar to an alignment. This put the front trunk height at 5 7/8", no more scraping of the front trunk. Can drop this to a 4" ground clearance height and still meet the OEM ground clearance requirement. Softened the rebound damping as well. Road test indicated that the Spyder leaned over more than when the damping was spot on, no overshoot. Have adjusted the rebound damping back to the initial setting and will road test tomorrow to determine if the lean angle feel has been reduced.
After this road test going to reduce the ground clearance to 4", measure front trunk clearance and road test. Shock preload will reduce from the 2.2 cm preload that is now being used. Don't expect a lot of ride quality and performance difference, but it will be a road test point.
Did an initial report on the install and ride quality/performance for Marcus at M2 shocks. He read the report and phoned - good customer service. I asked if he provided shocks for both the F3 and RT Spyders and he does, but he has not done an install in his shop with the RT model. This is something he is working on.
We had a good discussion about the M2 shocks as received and what I hope to accomplish as I go forward. I mentioned that the preload is at 2.2 cm. He mentioned that he would prefer to have the preload at a max of 10 mm, but this will entail a shock spring rate change. I had already thought about this and a 300/350 spring rate should do the trick. I would expect a preload of approximately 1.5 with a 300 pound spring rate, and a 1.0 cm preload with the 350 pound spring rate, these are estimates. Want to minimize preload and further reduce the feel of the Spyder in corners/curves, especially when riding two-up. Will make up my mind on the one to use, thinking the 300 pound spring rate will be sufficient and not be overpowering, into fine tuning at this point.
Took the OEM shock apart, have thoughts on what I might do with it similar to h0grider did with his. Keep for a time in the future when may need to have the M2 shock(s) serviced. Took a measurement of the shock shaft travel, only 2 inches available. Standard thought on travel is to use 30/35 percent of travel in setting up ride height. These percentages would only leave approximately 1 3/8" for suspension travel. Would need to use a spring rate similar to what h0grider used - 600 pound. Not a lot of wiggle room.
Attached two pics of the OEM shock. The other attachments are of the M2 shock install.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
Another suspension update. Adjusted the rebound damping on the front shocks last night. Road test this morning and like the ride. Less corner/curve lean. Will be making sure that the rebound adjusters are the same. Have to go all the way back one way, then return to where I started.
Thinking I’ll leave the ground clearance setup as is. The only issue is the preload adjustment. Discussed this with Marcus of M2 Shocks, and his preference is a maximum of ~1.0 cm just to take out the stiction of the shock internals. Thought about this last night and again during this morning’s ride.
The preload on the front shocks is 2.2 cm, almost 1 inch. This is used to support the weight of the Spyder and load to a specified or desired ground clearance height. These shocks have straight rate springs so ~250 lb/in force has been used to set the ground clearance. I have lost this 2.2 cm of shock spring length to do dynamic work when riding. Reducing this to a 1 cm preload, buys me 1.2 cm of spring length to do dynamic work, and I would think the ride quality and performance would be enhanced.
Everything I’ve read on preload is that you want to get the desired ride height/ground clearance with the minimum preload applied. The trick is to get the spring rate as close to perfect as is practical, with a maximum preload of 1 cm. Will be talking to M2 shocks regarding different front shock springs.
Another benefit of proper shock spring rates is that the weight of the Spyder and subsequent loads are being supported by the shock springs not the Spyder frame components, lessening weight on the front tires. I mention this because I have noticed that it’s easier to turn the front wheels at rest with the new shocks then it was with the old.
I mentioned in a previous post that the ACS system was not working. I surmised it was the ACS system calibration after having read the OEM service manual.
Put together the parts/pieces that I required to do this calibration and enlisted additional help. Hooked the B.U.D.S. software to the Spyder, went through the calibration procedure, and the ACS system is now functioning correctly. Solo rider, in gear with parking brake off, there is approximately 8 PSI in the air shock. Cycled the ACS system, and the rear of the Spyder rose and lowered as the ACS settings were changed.
Cheers
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
More info for my thread journal. Road test with the front shock rebound adjustment the same and the ACS system working, and riding the same route that I use to test my setup, the Spyder lean/roll was more pronounced then when the ACS system was not functioning. I attribute this to the ACS system maintaining a specific ride height in corners/curves and as such, there is more weight being transferred to the front of the Spyder. Have to adjust the rebound damping to compensate then another road test. getting close to where I want the suspension setup to be.
Have been reading threads about tires and what tires work well. I installed Kumho Solus KH16 tires on the front of my Spyder, cost is comparable to the OEM Kenda tire, construction is the same. I did this because of availability. Tread is 2 steel and 1 polyester - 3 ply construction and a radial. The side wall is the same 1 ply polyester belt construction. The rear Kenda tire is the same construction. Checked out the Quatrac 5 specs, has the same 3 ply tread construction, but maybe a better tread compound, giving it a longer lifespan and mileage, and helping with the ride quality. The new Kenda Kanine has the same construction characteristics as the Quatrac 5 tire - 3ply tread and 1 ply sidewall, radial construction.
Expect the ride quality of all new tires will be good, inexpensive or not, but the more expensive - premium tire ride quality will outlast the inexpensive tire.
The roll characteristic(s) of a new tire in a corner/curve will be supple and subtle because of the newness of the tire compound. As the tire ages, the rubber compound becomes more brittle/harder and the roll characteristic(s) change, probably making the corner/curve feel more harsh/abrupt.
The Kenda tires that I just changed were the original tires from 2014 with good tread life remaining. My Spyder had 9100 Kms on the clock when I bought it, so only one oil change had been done in 7 years - not good as well. Back to tires, age of the tire is just as damaging to ride quality/performance as is mileage. If the tire does not have that supple/subtle roll characteristic, the ride quality and corner/curve performance will be affected.
Having mentioned the above, the suspension system and it is a system, has to be viewed as a whole, not just a single component. It's mentioned often that the OEM suspension components are less than adequate, agree with this.
If you can afford to, make the required changes up front in the same year. If not, come up with a plan that includes replacing the suspension components, front/rear, with better quality components, and the order in which the change will be done. There appears to be one alternative for the sway bar issue. Lots of choice for replacement front/rear shocks depending on your budget and what you want to accomplish. Tires are similar, lots of choice and recommendations, caveat for tires is that if you purchase an inexpensive tire, expect to replace it sooner than if you had purchased a more premium tire such that you maintain that premium ride quality and performance you have come to expect from your tire of choice.
Identification of the issue is important. My Spyder front suspension would be fully compressed in a corner/curve such as a cloverleaf on/off ramp necessitating a speed reduction sometimes less than posted. Tires are not the issue, neither was the upgraded BajaRon sway bar that was installed when the original owner bought the Spyder. Only item left were the shocks.
Having gone through the process of upgrading the suspension system on my Spyder, my preference in what to and what order is new shocks with properly sized springs, then sway bar, then tires. The order in which to do these upgrades may differ from what I have previously posted, but the new order comes from having done all three, and actually seeing and feeling the difference.
My thoughts on the various aspects, and JMHO. No raining on anyone's parade intended.
Cheers
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
Going to start prepping the Spyder for our cross Canada trip this summer, Provincial requirements dependent. Won't be dropping down into the US unless something changes significantly.
Received new 300 lb-in shock springs for the front and have a 600 lb-in coming for the rear shock. Going to start on the shock spring change next week.
Will be ordering the dash mount from Value Accessories, and a couple of the single ball mounts for my 1200. Have a Quad Lock wireless charging mount to install. Will be using the phone as a GPS. Use the HERE WeGo app. Allows me to download province/state maps and use offline.
Will be installing a new accessory fuse block for my additions, keeping these separate. Have to find a trigger/switched wire for the activating relay. Thinking of using the Fuzeblock FZ1 because of its compact and integral design. Dimensions: L 3.25" x W 2.5" x H 1.25". Have used this on a couple of other occasions.
The FZ1 fuse block has an integrated power and ground bus, and the switching relay. This unit allows you to have switched or unswitched circuits depending on your requirement.
I've got a few days to make up my mind on this. There are less expensive ways to do this and each one has a compromise.
Cheers
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
I've used the FZ-1 in several motorcycle applications and it works great. I appreciate the ability to move a fuse from switched to unswitched when you change your circuit design. Two items of note:
1. With it's open design, you want to locate the FZ-1 where it won't be exposed to standing water.
2. The +12 and Gnd terminals (separated by the switched signal terminal) are fairly close together so if you are using #14 or larger wire make sure the wire insulation is fully seated against the terminal so no strands are exposed.
Looking on line at trailer wiring harness install. Lots of good info. Looked at one of my favourite sites for a video on this "It's Yours. OWN IT" and there was one. Liked the wiring install, used a 4 pole round connector that tucks up nicely underneath, nothing hangin out. Will visit the local dealer here, or order from Amazon.
Just thought about the GPS. My Spyder came with a GARMIN GPS. Have to dig it out and see what it's all about. There should be a GPS connection on the bike.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
I thought Canada trailers had turn bulbs separate from brake/tail bulbs. Which would require a 5-pin connector.
Or are you using this connector for onboard farkles? In which case why go so ugly?
No worries. The N-Line Trailer has a four pin connector. The round connector is appealing because it will be hidden under the right side saddlebag indicated in the attached picture - no farkles showing. I will make the trailer connection such that I can revert back to a standard flat 4 pin connector if needs be.
I have a 2 pin connector for the battery tender, attached picture. If I could find a 4 pin might go with it instead. The 2 pin flush mount connectors come in 4 packs for $30.00 CDN on Amazon.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
Bert - read a post by yourself about a connector for the battery tender. Waterproof and fits in say a 1" hole. Does this ring a bell?
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
Have a plug and play trailer wiring harness. Have it plugged in and tested. Everything is good except that after 2-3 flashes the signals start to hyperflash. This tells me the load in the system is not sufficient. There are signal light relays that mitigate this. Have to find the signal flasher.
Ordered a trailer connector, Curt Manufacturing 58671 I-6/I-7, 4 Pole Die Cast Connector Car and Trailer Ends. Should be here Sunday.
Will be installing a new rear tire. The one on the Spyder is original from the factory - 8 years old. It has a lot of tread left, but with the trip this summer prefer to have fresh rubber on the back. Taking the rear wheel off and having the new tire installed next Wednesday. Yes, it's a Kenda Kanine.
Installed the dash mount for GPS, cell phone and front USB connections.
More to follow.
Last edited by Rednaxs60; 03-17-2022 at 08:28 PM.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
Had a revalation at 3:00 AM regarding the hyperflash I noticed yesterday after installing the trailer plug and play harness. This is a load issue. Had the side mirrors off. Installed these this morning, load in the system good - no more hyperflash. Thinking more issues solved in the wee hours of the morning than at other times.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
More thoughts on personalizing the Spyder. Have to provide the Mrs with a heated gear connection for the cooler weather.
Have used flush mount SAE connectors. I will use the one for the pillion rider for the battery tender as well. Nice neat install. Have to run wires up to the battery area. Can get 4 of these from Amazon for $29.00 CDN. Here's an Amazon page: https://www.amazon.ca/Connector-Elec...594207&sr=8-26
I'm enjoying reading your threads, and I'm learning a lot about the 'Zen of Spyder Maintenance'
Quick question about your use of the same SAE connector on the Spyder as both a power side for heated gear and a load side for the battery maintainer. I've not found that gambit to work in practice because of the polarity reversal. Feel free to correct me on this; I may learn something.
I'm enjoying reading your threads, and I'm learning a lot about the 'Zen of Spyder Maintenance'
Quick question about your use of the same SAE connector on the Spyder as both a power side for heated gear and a load side for the battery maintainer. I've not found that gambit to work in practice because of the polarity reversal. Feel free to correct me on this; I may learn something.
Thanks for the complement. Regarding connectors. Hook the SAE connector up to use the battery tender. You will need a second pigtail connector for heated clothing, connect the wires to suit. The SAE connector I used thanks to a recommendation on this forum, fits in the round plug under the left passenger hand grip.
The added fuse block is mounted behind the left lower panel, and using small standoffs, is mounted in front of the ECU. No issues with install during a 17,000 Km trip cross Canada and back. The fuse block is not switched at this time, but may be in the future.
Bought a lithium-ion LifePo4 battery for my 1200 Gold Wing. The 2014 Spyder RTL uses the same AGM battery as the GW, this lithium-ion battery should work well in the Spyder. It's extremely light, better CCA, smaller in size. Needs a lithium-ion battery tender. Discussed the cold operation as I have read that these batteries do not do well in the cold. The company located in Northern Alberta use them in snowmobiles, ATV and the likes with no issue(s).
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
Reply With Quote
FZ-1 is great but keep it dry
Doesn't Canada require 5-pin trailer connection
Originally Posted by BertRemington
You want this connector
If you haven't purchased the FZ-1 consider this
