In the fall of 2019 just before my extended warranty ran out I got the local dealer to replace the steering column on my 2014 RTS. The handlebar had developed a fair amount of loose play so BRP OK'd a replacement. I don't know what the dealer did and did not do, but when I got it back and rode it a time or two (before end of riding season) everything seemed fine. Then last year was a complicated year for me and I didn't get to ride much. I felt there was something just not quite right with the steering. My arms and elbows hurt after a ride. Finally, at the end of the summer I discovered the handlebar was not square with the Spyder. The left grip was about 1 1/2" closer to the dash than was the right grip. I haven't been able to find a good picture of the steering column to see what the spline configuration at the ends are. But I wonder if the tech put it together one spline off of straight in line. So I decided to first do a laser alignment and make adjustments in the tie rods to see if I can square up the handlebar. There is no laser alignment shop within about 500 miles of me so I'm going to do it myself.

This is my story of what I am doing. I'll discuss what I've done so far and then add more as I get it done.

I decided the easiest way to get a good flat surface to mount the lasers to was to remove the front tires and attach the lasers to the brake rotors. I don't know if it's still the case but the original factory alignment method uses the brake rotors, not the wheels. I used spacers and replaced the lug nuts to hold the rotor tight to the hub. The lasers are Pittsburgh brand from Harbor Freight. They're not the best and brightest but the price is right, $20 each, and good enough for now. The magnets don't hold them tight so I used a 1/4-20 screw through the rotor into the laser mounting thread to hold the lasers tight to the rotors. I'm using some jerry rigged targets that are working OK.

The first three pics show the struts sitting on the blocks and the lasers mounted to the rotors.

Left Front 1.jpg

Right Front 1.jpg

Right Front 2.jpg

These pics show shining straight down. You need these lines to determine what the track width between the lasers is. That is the distance that you base the spacing between the targets behind and in front of the wheels to set the toe-in. As you can see in my case it is 58 1/8". I later marked on the floor as close as I could using a level where the center of the wheel is. You need that point so you can the targets the same distance behind and in front of the wheels. That simply makes calculating the required distances easier. Here is one case where the Rolo system is much, much, better! The Rolo puts the laser in line with the center of the wheel so when you rotate it downward and plumb, you know exactly where on the floor the center of the wheel is.

Left Track 2.jpg

Right Track.jpg

Wheel Centerline mark.jpg

The next step was to set the handlebar square to the centerline of the Spyder. I measured from the end of the grip to the ends of the dash and set the handlebar so that both ends were the same. Riding experience has shown that is the most comfortable cross-wise position for the handlebar. Here is another case where having the Spyder on blocks without the wheels made things easier. You can easily turn the handlebar and not have to fight the resistance between the tires and the floor.

Handlebar 1.jpg

Handlebar 2.jpg

These pics show the laser line on the rear targets with the handlebar set square. The targets are set 29 1/16" from the centerline of the rear tire. LaMont sets his targets from the rim but I find this is easier and I don't need to be concerned what the real width of the rim is. The tire tread is symmetrical and the center is easy to figure out. In the first pic the vertical line is hard to see as it is about 1 1/4" outboard of the target line and off the tape. In the second pic the line is about 1" inboard of the target. This means both front wheels are angled to the left and the toe-in is about 1/4" over the 80" distance from the wheel center. This is as far as I have gotten for now. I'll need to review LaMont's video to see what his recommendation is for toe-in and adjust it for the 80" distance. I think he uses 76" fore and aft for the targets.

Target RL.jpg

Target RR.jpg