I noticed a little oil around the filler when I had it delivered last year. Washing it I would see the occasional oil ring so I really cleaned the underside before winter. I looked under it last week and noticed oil at the one drain plug and on the exhaust but no drips on the ground. Wiped them off and checked drain plug and it was tight and washed it again.
Ran the hell out of it for about 30 mins, hard throttle to rev limiter and hard braking.
Today I put her on ramps, real bummer and I hope its just over filled.
Where does the excess oil come out of? You can see oil drops on the lower areas the whole way across the engine, I cannot see anything wet up top. I cannot see where the dipstick goes in either. I now a lot of the oil has accumulated in the plastic cover and center frame.
I can't see around the oil filter or dipstick area without removing more panels. Oil is the whole way across the underside so its not the drain plug as far as I can tell (back and front of engine are dry), Im hoping it just was overfilled and I can correct it vs going in for warranty. I'll have to pull more panels to look closer before giving up all spring for warranty.
Its only been a couple of drops since I've owned last year but man does that little plastic cover hold a lot. Just looking for some ideas that I can correct before going to the dealer.
Are you sure it hasn't been over-filled with oil?? Once you get oil being pushed outta anywhere & spread/sprayed all over the place under the tupperware, it can collect, pool, & then drip for ages, even if you think you've cleaned it all off!!
Even a 'slight' over-fill might mean you end up with oil in the air intake &/or filter, and from there it can pool/collect over time until it starts to seep/weep/run out & eventually appear as drips or even runs in all sorts of places, making you think your engine is leaking from places that it really isn't!! However, an over-fill that's anything much more than just 'slight' might mean that you end up with oil being forced into places that it really shouldn't be... so much that sometimes, the accumulated & pressurised excess oil can 'blow out' seals &/or gaskets that normally wouldn't have any issues containing the little amount of oil they are designed to contain!
So, are you sure that your Spyder engine hasn't ever been over-filled with oil??
No I'm not sure if it was over filled, Ill try to check it again an see what I find. 400 miles on it - does the dealer fill them for PDI???
This what i'm preying for! Im cleaning everything off now underneath and I don't know where it collects at if it is overfilled. Would I see it if I removed the air filter?
Everything is right in the middle of the engine from left to right. Front bottom is clean and the rear bottom is clean. Drain plug area from left to right the whole way across is wet.
Its definitely coming from up high and weeping across the middle area and slowly accumulating in the plastic cover and frame.
Ill take any advise to not have to take it to a dealership if its as simple as an overfill!
Bluewoo, it's not really all that easy to take the air filter housing &/or the inlet trunking out, and you'd probably need to do that to 'properly' (or maybe even 'adequately'?? ) clean & inspect everything the placcy bits hide - but just taking the filter housing lid off & lifting/removing the air filter from the housing so that you can carefully (making sure you don't let 'dust' or anything else get into the intake/s) wipe the housing out & mop up any collected oil, whether it's dusty mist, or full on puddles!
Don't laugh, I have seen a couple of filter housings with full on engine oil soaked filters & puddles of oil in there, and more of them with oil dripping out of the intake tubing, and all of that 'excess oil' can end up seeping/running out of the housing/trunking & onto other things - so anything you can do to clean any trapped oil out of that lot will help!!
And I hafta say, by far the majority of 'oil leaks' that I've seen have actually been cases of 'oil spills' or 'oil over-fills' than anything else, often from/by dealer techs too; so I'd think/hope that yours is just another case like most of the rest! Good Luck!
Ps: 'Reply with Quote' can be handy to make it clear who/what you are responding to, but it can also SERIOUSLY make the thread difficult to read & follow if it's used too much! So unless you NEED to use it to specifically identify a particular point in an earlier post that you are responding to, it's a whole lot easier and kinder to readers just to address the previous poster's username in your text, as I have above!
And when it comes to addressing a particular point in an earlier post, sure, you can hit 'Reply with Quote' and maybe p**s people off by showing us yet again/forcing us to scroll past all the stuff we've only just finished reading and any pics, attachments etc in that previous post, but you really don't HAVE to show the entire thing in your reply (especially if it's a saga, like many of my posts! ) Once you've got the entire quote & its 'quote text' into your draft reply, you can edit out anything that's not essential to your reply making sense - just show where you've edited out text, pics, attachments etc by inserting something like '....' or maybe 'snip' where you removed the superfluous stuff - only ALWAYS leave the [.QUOTE=Poster's username;12349876] bit at the beginning and the [/.QUOTE] bit at the end of the quote so it'll still display as a quote! (Extra .'s added before QUOTE delimiters deliberately to allow Command Line to show! ) The delimiter commands & the square brackets [ - ] that 'contain' them are ESSENTIAL parts of the Command Lines that enable this, so if you edit/delete any of those on either side of QUOTE, then please, put them back before hitting submit!
For example, this abbreviated/shortened Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewoo
I keep missing the "reply with quote" !
..... (edit/deleted text) .....
Thanks Peter!
is achieved by doing this:
[.QUOTE=bluewoo;1565632]I keep missing the "reply with quote" !
..... (edit/deleted text) .....
Thanks Peter![/.QUOTE]
(With those "extra .'s" of course! )
Now, let's get back to our normal program.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-12-2021 at 10:42 PM.
Bluewoo, it's not really all that easy to take the air filter housing &/or the inlet trunking out, and you'd probably need to do that to 'properly' (or maybe even 'adequately'?? ) clean & inspect everything the placcy bits hide - but just taking the filter housing lid off & lifting/removing the air filter from the housing so that you can carefully (making sure you don't let 'dust' or anything else get into the intake/s) wipe the housing out & mop up any collected oil, whether it's dusty mist, or full on puddles!
Don't laugh, I have seen a couple of filter housings with full on engine oil soaked filters & puddles of oil in there, and more of them with oil dripping out of the intake tubing, and all of that 'excess oil' can end up seeping/running out of the housing/trunking & onto other things - so anything you can do to clean any trapped oil out of that lot will help!!
And I hafta say, by far the majority of 'oil leaks' that I've seen have actually been cases of 'oil spills' or 'oil over-fills' than anything else, often from/by dealer techs too; so I'd think/hope that yours is just another case like most of the rest! Good Luck!
Ps: 'Reply with Quote' can be handy to make it clear who/what you are responding to, but it can also SERIOUSLY make the thread difficult to read & follow if it's used too much! So unless you NEED to use it to specifically identify a particular point in an earlier post that you are responding to, it's a whole lot easier and kinder to readers just to address the previous poster's username in your text, as I have above!
And when it comes to addressing a particular point in an earlier post, sure, you can hit 'Reply with Quote' and maybe p**s people off by showing us yet again/forcing us to scroll past all the stuff we've only just finished reading and any pics, attachments etc in that previous post, but you really don't HAVE to show the entire thing in your reply (especially if it's a saga, like many of my posts! ) Once you've got the entire quote & its 'quote text' into your draft reply, you can edit out anything that's not essential to your reply making sense - just show where you've edited out text, pics, attachments etc by inserting something like '....' or maybe 'snip' where you removed the superfluous stuff - only ALWAYS leave the [.QUOTE=Poster's username;12349876] bit at the beginning and the [/.QUOTE] bit at the end of the quote so it'll still display as a quote! (Extra .'s added before QUOTE delimiters deliberately to allow Command Line to show! ) The delimiter commands & the square brackets [ - ] that 'contain' them are ESSENTIAL parts of the Command Lines that enable this, so if you edit/delete any of those on either side of QUOTE, then please, put them back before hitting submit!
For example, this abbreviated/shortened Quote:
is achieved by doing this:
[.QUOTE=bluewoo;1565632]I keep missing the "reply with quote" !
..... (edit/deleted text) .....
Thanks Peter![/.QUOTE]
(With those "extra .'s" of course! )
Now, let's get back to our normal program.
Ok, the air box is clean and dry. I sprayed simple green on everything to see if this will help as I ran out of brake clean.
Thanks for the help and recommendations LOL as Im just frustrated. I can see above the alt and its dry around it as nothing is wet on top and around the oil filter area, but the filler tub is hard to see but looks dry. If the secondary air box( throttle body) is dripping oil this would be exactly where it could be coming from but cannot get me hands near it.
I'll keep everyone posted, and I'll re check the oil too!
I have never taken a vehicle to a dealer voluntarily. But if I spent $20,000-$25,000 for a new vehicle and something appeared to be wrong,
and I was not an experienced motorcycle/Spyder mechanic, I would return it post-haste.
Get the bloody Spyder to the dealership and tell them you want it fixed as well as an explanation, including any replaced parts, as to why an engine with a sterling reputation for not using or leaking oil had the problem.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
I have never taken a vehicle to a dealer voluntarily. But if I spent $20,000-$25,000 for a new vehicle and something appeared to be wrong,
and I was not an experienced motorcycle/Spyder mechanic, I would return it post-haste.
I agree and I am an experienced mechanic on many levels. I've spent my life fixing things before getting to the dealer so they know whats wrong.
Too many days wasted "we dont know whats wrong" bla bla.
So Ill look around and if its a real leak then it goes to the dealer.......
Get the bloody Spyder to the dealership and tell them you want it fixed as well as an explanation, including any replaced parts, as to why an engine with a sterling reputation for not using or leaking oil had the problem.
We will see after a good cleaning underneath and a good run tomorrow.
I hate dealerships!
We will see after a good cleaning underneath and a good run tomorrow.
I hate dealerships!
Yes, please letus know, I too have a 2021 RTL
I used a very knowledgable mechanic find the same issue when installing my Baja Ron swaybar.
Only had 100 miles on her at the time. He re checked all the torx and everything was correct.
Said to take to dealer and it will be covered under warranty. BRP will just ask where is it leaking from.
Yes, please letus know, I too have a 2021 RTL
I used a very knowledgable mechanic find the same issue when installing my Baja Ron swaybar.
Only had 100 miles on her at the time. He re checked all the torx and everything was correct.
Said to take to dealer and it will be covered under warranty. BRP will just ask where is it leaking from.
Looks like your issue is the trans side drain plug as you can see in that picture oil on the plug.
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people...... but our benefits don't?
Do either of these Spyders have any signs of spillage near the fillers??
I can't help but notice that even for a 'new engine', the oil both your pics show is looking awfully clean for oil that's been thru the engine - even if only for a few hundred miles or so?? Which makes one wonder, did whoever did the assy on either/both of those machines just get a bit sloppy when they were throwing the oil in??
Even a little 'fresh oil spillage' will go a loooong way; and given all the little nooks & crevices & trays where a small puddle could be trapped/contained underneath the tupperware on a Spyder, they could easily drip like that for MONTHS afterwards?!
Looks like your issue is the trans side drain plug as you can see in that picture oil on the plug.
I remember him saying it was leaking on both sides, that's why he (the mechanic Lou) said it probably wasn't overfill. But want to hear what Bluewoo finds out and then will show dealership this thread if it might be of any help.
Was at dealership today for another issue and showed these photos but they are currently backlogged to getting to it.
So I am gonna keep an eye on my oil fluid levels, but you say this may be transmission oil? I am all green thumbs when it comes to this stuff
From the pictures posted: possible leak at the transmission drain plug, possibly a leak between the engine block and covers.
Like maybe the gasket(s) or seal(s) are damaged or maybe missing.
I would clean and inspect the entire engine area. Run/Ryde the Spyder for 15-30 minutes. Then check the engine oil level and then check out for any more oil leakage.
If anything is wrong, BRP needs to know and find a fix. ......
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
.......
So I am gonna keep an eye on my oil fluid levels, but you say this may be transmission oil? I am all green thumbs when it comes to this stuff
Yeah, on a Spyder, with a constant mesh gearbox & a wet clutch where the engine & the transmission SHARE the same oil, then YES, it is transmission oil - and it is engine oil too! Same same!
Not much else you can do but raise it as a warranty issue with BRP/your dealer and demand it be fixed; but until that happens/in the meantime, clean it up whenever necessary, keep an eye on your oil level, and I guess keep on hoping it never turns into a real engine or transmission issue!
I have not read all the post, but my 2016 F3T had a leak from the "O" ring around the oil filler tube. The mechanic said that was a common thing. They replaced it and never had an issue since then.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
I have not read all the post, but my 2016 F3T had a leak from the "O" ring around the oil filler tube. The mechanic said that was a common thing. They replaced it and never had an issue since then.
Its about impossible to see the whole tube on the 2020's. I can see it's two piece design but that's it. I'm going to run it today after a really good cleaning and properly check the oil level and cross my fingers.
Do either of these Spyders have any signs of spillage near the fillers??
I can't help but notice that even for a 'new engine', the oil both your pics show is looking awfully clean for oil that's been thru the engine - even if only for a few hundred miles or so?? Which makes one wonder, did whoever did the assy on either/both of those machines just get a bit sloppy when they were throwing the oil in??
Even a little 'fresh oil spillage' will go a loooong way; and given all the little nooks & crevices & trays where a small puddle could be trapped/contained underneath the tupperware on a Spyder, they could easily drip like that for MONTHS afterwards?!
Possibly even longer if they were overfilled too!
Mine did, and I saw and oil rainbow when I washed it but no drops of oil. Then I saw two drops in the fall, so without looking under it I washed again with some s100 and put it away for winter. Spring there was two drops still on the spyder and not on ground, one was on exhaust and other was straight across on left side of engine. The plastic cover was holding IMG_20210312_183140.jpg.
I had my shop for 26 years,when we had a tricky oil leak we put fluorescent dye in the oil ran it a while or let the owner have it for the wknd and then we shine a blacklight on it and you will find the source of the leak without cleaning anything.They sell dye for coolant too.Most all replacement ac refrigerant already has the dye in it when you buy it bc thats about the most common way to find a tiny leak,that and a electronic sniffer but those can drive you nuts.
Update: Took her out in 39 degrees brrrrrrrrr. 10 miles came home let idle for 10 mins and the checked oil level within 2 mins and this what I found.
Can Ams dipstick sucks!
I think it was over full a little as I kept taking some out, then let idle for a few mins and recheck. After all that I could finally see where the oil level was as the picture shows.
*sorry for the blurry pics - looks like its just below the x on MAX. IMG_20210313_102140.jpgIMG_20210313_102149.jpg
Oil leak 2021 400 miles HELP
Reply With Quote
However, an over-fill that's anything much more than just 'slight' might mean that you end up with oil being forced into places that it really shouldn't be... so much that sometimes, the accumulated & pressurised excess oil can 'blow out' seals &/or gaskets that normally wouldn't have any issues containing the little amount of oil they are designed to contain! 
) clean & inspect everything the placcy bits hide - but just taking the filter housing lid off & lifting/removing the air filter from the housing so that you can carefully (making sure you don't let 'dust' or anything else get into the intake/s) wipe the housing out & mop up any collected oil, whether it's dusty mist, or full on puddles! 
) Once you've got the entire quote & its 'quote text' into your draft reply, you can edit out anything that's not essential to your reply making sense - just show where you've edited out text, pics, attachments etc by inserting something like '....' or maybe 'snip' where you removed the superfluous stuff - only ALWAYS leave the [.QUOTE=Poster's username;12349876] bit at the beginning and the [/.QUOTE] bit at the end of the quote so it'll still display as a quote! (Extra .'s added before QUOTE delimiters deliberately to allow Command Line to show! 
Originally Posted by bluewoo
From the pictures posted: possible leak at the transmission drain plug, possibly a leak between the engine block and covers. 
as I kept taking some out, then let idle for a few mins and recheck. After all that I could finally see where the oil level was as the picture shows.
