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  1. #1
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    Default 2013 RT Limited - several codes - Update!

    Well I’m hoping I didn’t fubar. I had to put a new rear tire and drive belt on the spyder. Everything actually went better than expected. Until I went to put the brake caliper back on. Had to loosen the blender valve to get the pads to open up enough to go back over the rotor. Got it all back together. Started it up and all kinds of warning messages came up. All having to do with the brake system. Check engine light and it’s in limp mode. Guess I’m heading to the dealer :-(

  2. #2
    Very Active Member EdMat's Avatar
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    Sounds like you may just need to bleed the brakes.
    2019 RT Limited , Phoenix Orange

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdMat View Post
    Sounds like you may just need to bleed the brakes.
    Yeah that’s what I’m thinking but I read it has to be done at the dealer using a special machine? The dealer I talked to said it’s $325 😵🤕😮

  4. #4
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    The only reason you'd need the dealer to bleed the brakes is if you HAD to activate the ABS module to purge it of trapped air/old fluid.... Doing that requires the use of BRP's proprietary Diagnostic & Maintenance software, BUDS. BUT, if you didn't do any emergency braking while the bleed screw/s was/were open; nor pump the brake pedal repeatedly while the fluid reservoirs were absolutely empty, then the NEED for that is likely to be pretty small!

    So if you feel reasonably confident you can do a brake bleed yourself, go ahead - most of the time you don't NEED to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes/activate &/or purge the ABS module after simply changing the brake pads. But remember, they ARE your brakes & as such, are a pretty important safety feature - so if you're not reasonably confident you can do it properly yourself, then it might be smart to find someone who is to help &/or do it for you.... altho that's not necessarily a dealer!

    Just about any competent home spanner spinner is up to this sorta stuff, especially with some knowledgeable guidance; but if you feel the need of engaging a 'professional' then most good brake service techs should be able to do 99.89% of what needs to be done; and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....

    Go on, give it a go! You Know you want to!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-27-2021 at 06:11 PM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  5. #5
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    For the price you were quoted you need to find another dealer. I had my brake system completely flushed, including the ABS module last October for $190.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    The only reason you'd need the dealer to bleed the brakes is if you HAD to activate the ABS module to purge it of trapped air/old fluid.... Doing that requires the use of BRP's proprietary Diagnostic & Maintenance software, BUDS. BUT, if you didn't do any emergency braking while the bleed screw/s was/were open; nor pump the brake pedal repeatedly while the fluid reservoirs were absolutely empty, then the NEED for that is likely to be pretty small!

    So if you feel reasonably confident you can do a brake bleed yourself, go ahead - most of the time you don't NEED to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes/activate &/or purge the ABS module after simply changing the brake pads. But remember, they ARE your brakes & as such, are a pretty important safety feature - so if you're not reasonably confident you can do it properly yourself, then it might be smart to find someone who is to help &/or do it for you.... altho that's not necessarily a dealer!

    Just about any competent home spanner spinner is up to this sorta stuff, especially with some knowledgeable guidance; but if you feel the need of engaging a 'professional' then most good brake service techs should be able to do 99.89% of what needs to be done; and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....

    Go on, give it a go! You Know you want to!
    I am fairly confident with bleeding brakes. But how do you clear/reset the codes?

  7. #7
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    The only reason you'd need the dealer to bleed the brakes is if you HAD to activate the ABS module to purge it of trapped air/old fluid.... Doing that requires the use of BRP's proprietary Diagnostic & Maintenance software, BUDS. BUT, if you didn't do any emergency braking while the bleed screw/s was/were open; nor pump the brake pedal repeatedly while the fluid reservoirs were absolutely empty, then the NEED for that is likely to be pretty small!

    So if you feel reasonably confident you can do a brake bleed yourself, go ahead - most of the time you don't NEED to go to the dealer to bleed the brakes/activate &/or purge the ABS module after simply changing the brake pads. But remember, they ARE your brakes & as such, are a pretty important safety feature - so if you're not reasonably confident you can do it properly yourself, then it might be smart to find someone who is to help &/or do it for you.... altho that's not necessarily a dealer!

    Just about any competent home spanner spinner is up to this sorta stuff, especially with some knowledgeable guidance; but if you feel the need of engaging a 'professional' then most good brake service techs should be able to do 99.89% of what needs to be done; and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....

    Go on, give it a go! You Know you want to!
    and let me add .... the amount of fluid in the ABA module system is quite small and will have little effect on your Braking ability .... If you do a normal " brake bleed " ( I did on my RT ) and do it correctly you will be fine ..... good luck .... Mike

  8. #8
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    A lot of guessing going on. You say you have several codes but do not tell us what they are? Why not get the fault code and that may point to the action you need to take. Turn on the key. When the check engine light comes on. Press the mode, set and turn cancel buttons at the same time. The active fault codes will display on the screen. Post them here and someone will tell what to do next.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  9. #9
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    ....... and 99% of the time, once that 'basic brake bleed' is done (without the ABS activation/purge) & the pads are seated properly &/or the low pressure switch has been re-set (if you triggered that particular issue/code/warning) then all it'll take to get rid of any remaining 'active brake related codes' is about 30 metres of gentle & careful ryding, with a brake application or two during that time/distance.....
    ......
    Quote Originally Posted by GlenCreek View Post
    I am fairly confident with bleeding brakes. But how do you clear/reset the codes?
    Generally, if the codes & limp mode etc you are seeing are the same as those many encounter when they do this particular job, then as highlighted in my post & quoted/bolded above, all it usually takes to clear the codes/limp mode is a little careful & gentle riding with a gentle brake application or two....

    However, as Billy's post above suggests, there IS a little guessing as to exactly what codes you may be seeing going on?!? But still, if ALL you've done/that's occurred is what you've told us, there's a reasonable possibility that there's nothing drastic going on....
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-28-2021 at 06:04 PM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  10. #10
    RT-S PE#0412 TicketBait's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    a lot of guessing going on. You say you have several codes but do not tell us what they are? Why not get the fault code and that may point to the action you need to take. Turn on the key. When the check engine light comes on. Press the mode, set and turn cancel buttons at the same time. The active fault codes will display on the screen. Post them here and someone will tell what to do next.
    Exactly

  11. #11
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    Default Update on my code issues

    I posted a couple weeks back that after replacing the rear drive belt and pulley on my 2013 rt limited I have several fault codes. I was scheduled to take it to the dealer today but decided to try to take it for a short ride as was suggested in another post. After just about a block all warnings went away except brake failure. After more reading I found that the system is very touchy to brake fluid levels. I added a little brake fluid and so far all is well! Thanks to everyone who responded. Now I can start looking into some performance upgrades

  12. #12
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Thank you for the update. Not everyone is forthcoming with the information after they receive a good answer from the site.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARtraveler View Post
    Thank you for the update. Not everyone is forthcoming with the information after they receive a good answer from the site.
    Oh I’m extremely grateful for the information/help. Hopefully one day I’ll have the knowledge to help someone else

  14. #14
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlenCreek View Post
    I posted a couple weeks back that after replacing the rear drive belt and pulley on my 2013 rt limited I have several fault codes. I was scheduled to take it to the dealer today but decided to try to take it for a short ride as was suggested in another post. After just about a block all warnings went away except brake failure. After more reading I found that the system is very touchy to brake fluid levels. I added a little brake fluid and so far all is well! Thanks to everyone who responded. Now I can start looking into some performance upgrades
    Thanks for the added info ...... I won't get into the technical reasons , but trust me - if you want more performance you MUST start with having the ECU re-programmed ( go to Monster Fuel for all the info you need ) .... NOTHING else you try will do ANYTHING, until the ECU is changed .... cost about $375 for about 25HP - guaranteed ..... Post a thread asking how other members feel about this ..... Mike

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