Need suggestions... what modifications, changes, adjustments to make on Ryker?

[Windhound]

New rider...have always been passenger...picking up 2020 Ryker Rally this Friday. What modifications, changes, adjustments would you make make immediately to the Ryker, ie: BajaRon sway bar, better headlights, better seat...etc. Thank you so much for your help! Oh, I live near Yelm, WA...where it is wet, wet, wet, and overcast most of the days.

Windhound

[RayBJ]

If you haven't driven it yet you may want till you have some miles under your belt to feel out how it handles. Depending on your riding style and pace, OEM may be good for awhile.
I'll leave it to the experts here to chime in with what to upgrade after the swaybar & all-season tires.

[CopperSpyder]

Hello Windhound, Welcome to the forum. The Ryker Rally is top of the line Ryker you will need to add nothing for now just ride it and get to know the machine (you have a good one). Once you have some miles on it than make it yours by adding what you think it needs. Some like a different softer or harder seat but others think the stock is fine. The sway bar is the same, adding lights, bags, colored panels etc. will make it yours later once you know your machine. You can look on the home page at some of vendors we have click on their banner and see what they have for Ryker things to add. But ride it first and enjoy the smiles.

[Bfromla]

Is a make it your own custom balance of sorts, lighting (within reason)probably the largest assortment available for seeing & being seen. Rykers being built well rounded for introduction however minimal, you will most likely looking for additional storage.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

New rider...have always been passenger...picking up 2020 Ryker Rally this Friday. What modifications, changes, adjustments would you make make immediately to the Ryker, ie: BajaRon sway bar, better headlights, better seat...etc. Thank you so much for your help! Oh, I live near Yelm, WA...where it is wet, wet, wet, and overcast most of the days.

Windhound

.... in a word NONE ..... no matter what anyone or everyone says .... don't do anything for at least 1000+ miles .... learn what the ryker does or doesn't do ..... then change what you don't like ..... jmho ..... Mike

[ARtraveler]

The suggestion to ride it a bit before modifying is a good one. I recommend 500 - 1000 miles for any vehicle modifications.

If you have to do something...you can never have two many lights. A good place to start and maybe some "bling."

They have a new shifter. Look that one up. I would have one of those if I had a Ryker.

on the new Rallye. That's good stuff.

[RykerRick]

Well, I'm not one for waiting. I left the dealership on day one with a sport windscreen and the Linq accessory plate & top case. The horn is pitiful, cage drivers wont hear it, so I replaced it with a louder Wolo Full Blast horn. Its much louder than the factory beep beep horn. I also installed a smart battery maintainer pigtail on the battery and routed it so that I can plug it in without hood removal. I believe I made those two first changes within the first few days.

After that I slowly made it my own over the next couple of months. I upgraded the seat, I didnt need 1000 miles to determine that. I also added wheel plugs & caps, drink holder, 12 volt dual USB power port to power my dash cam, phone, and or my GPS. I also changed the plastic sway bar end links with BajaRon billet aluminum end links to get rid of the twitchy steering at higher interstate speeds (the plastic ones flex too much). I've done much more over the following months, but those few little things were important enough to me to get them in place within the first couple of months.

[Windhound]

Well, I'm not one for waiting. I left the dealership on day one with a sport windscreen and the Linq accessory plate & top case. The horn is pitiful, cage drivers wont hear it, so I replaced it with a louder Wolo Full Blast horn. Its much louder than the factory beep beep horn. I also installed a smart battery maintainer pigtail on the battery and routed it so that I can plug it in without hood removal. I believe I made those two first changes within the first few days.

After that I slowly made it my own over the next couple of months. I upgraded the seat, I didnt need 1000 miles to determine that. I also added wheel plugs & caps, drink holder, 12 volt dual USB power port to power my dash cam, phone, and or my GPS. I also changed the plastic sway bar end links with BajaRon billet aluminum end links to get rid of the twitchy steering at higher interstate speeds (the plastic ones flex too much). I've done much more over the following months, but those few little things were important enough to me to get them in place within the first couple of months.

My hubby owns four motorcycles...the one we tour one is an Indian Roadmaster. We test rode the Can Am Spyder and it shook so much over 35 mph, he said that under no circumstances was I purchasing that! So next I tried the Ryker 600 and then the Ryker Rally. Really like the Rally, but again experienced shaky, you could call it twitchy handling. Maybe I am expecting too much...but if putting the BajaRon end links will get rid of that twitchy feeling, I think I am going to do that asap.

My hubby said "Thank you", and good suggestions on horn and battery maintenance pigtail.

[Windhound]

If you haven't driven it yet you may want till you have some miles under your belt to feel out how it handles. Depending on your riding style and pace, OEM may be good for awhile.
I'll leave it to the experts here to chime in with what to upgrade after the swaybar & all-season tires.

Wow! Thank you for replying so quickly... I notice that this Forum is full of good people willing to help

[Windhound]

Hello Windhound, Welcome to the forum. The Ryker Rally is top of the line Ryker you will need to add nothing for now just ride it and get to know the machine (you have a good one). Once you have some miles on it than make it yours by adding what you think it needs. Some like a different softer or harder seat but others think the stock is fine. The sway bar is the same, adding lights, bags, colored panels etc. will make it yours later once you know your machine. You can look on the home page at some of vendors we have click on their banner and see what they have for Ryker things to add. But ride it first and enjoy the smiles.

CopperSpyder...Thank you for your warm welcome...I am thinking of going punk pink...including lights so that they see me coming in this Pacific NW gloom...have been religiously studying this Forum. Everyone is so helpful! Windhound

[Windhound]

Just noticed that I could reply to whole thread...this is my first time on a forum...really enjoying the group...everyone is so helpful...I read this forum extensively before making an decision on the Ryker Rally...kind'a felt like I was stalking your information...but part of the group now...will post pics of my Rally (if it quits raining and we are not washed away.)

Windhound

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My hubby owns four motorcycles...the one we tour one is an Indian Roadmaster. We test rode the Can Am Spyder and it shook so much over 35 mph, he said that under no circumstances was I purchasing that! So next I tried the Ryker 600 and then the Ryker Rally. Really like the Rally, but again experienced shaky, you could call it twitchy handling. Maybe I am expecting too much...but if putting the BajaRon end links will get rid of that twitchy feeling, I think I am going to do that asap.

My hubby said "Thank you", and good suggestions on horn and battery maintenance pigtail.

Spyder " shook so much over 35 mph " ..... this has not been my experience for the three I owned or the three I rode owned by others .... It is a well known fact that Spyder OEM tires ( which are Kenda's ) have the Worst " defective tire " rate of any brand I've ever heard of .... ie out-of-round, internal belt separation , un-balanceable for multiple reasons .... that is their track record ... I'm thinking you rode ode one with one or more of those Defects ...... good luck ..... Mike

[chris56]

we ryde most time here in the Alps - also on cold and rainy days .. as you see I have heated grips and the Can-Am delux fairing ..-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-qepHyfbfE&t=14s

P.S.
you will love her !!

[Markubis]

I would suggest for starters on the Rally:
The horn is embarrassing to use. You can get a decent one for cheap money on amazon.
The upgraded end links make a huge difference in handling but I was fine without the upgrade for a year or so.
A windshield if you're planning on doing highway riding. That was what annoyed me most in my first year. The amount of wind hitting your chest and head is extremely annoying. I was always afraid of turning my head too much. A short windshield stopped that completely and it only cost around $100. It's short so I can still see over it, which I prefer, and it gives me a comfortable bubble when on the highway.

[Windhound]

we ryde most time here in the Alps - also on cold and rainy days .. as you see I have heated grips and the Can-Am delux fairing ..-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-qepHyfbfE&t=14s

P.S.
you will love her !!

Riding in the Pacific NW must be alot like riding in the Alps..if you do not ride on the rainy days...you don't ride...heated grips and delux fairing are now on my list...expecially the heated grips...we are still getting snow...I name all my vehicles...so will be send out a "birth announcement"

[Windhound]

I would suggest for starters on the Rally:
The horn is embarrassing to use. You can get a decent one for cheap money on amazon.
The upgraded end links make a huge difference in handling but I was fine without the upgrade for a year or so.
A windshield if you're planning on doing highway riding. That was what annoyed me most in my first year. The amount of wind hitting your chest and head is extremely annoying. I was always afraid of turning my head too much. A short windshield stopped that completely and it only cost around $100. It's short so I can still see over it, which I prefer, and it gives me a comfortable bubble when on the highway.

Ok...horn...VIP...need to honk at those cage drivers who are not paying attention to anything but their cell phone...yes, I am putting windshield on...we go for looooong rides...and alot of back roads with farms, which means crickets hitting the face...that is painful...what windshield do you suggest? BRP's prices are outrageous.

[Markubis]

Ok...horn...VIP...need to honk at those cage drivers who are not paying attention to anything but their cell phone...yes, I am putting windshield on...we go for looooong rides...and alot of back roads with farms, which means crickets hitting the face...that is painful...what windshield do you suggest? BRP's prices are outrageous.

I got the Puig 5022h for around $100. It's roughly the same size as the BRP windshield but a little wider. You may prefer something larger though so do a search for windshield and you should find a few threads. It really comes down to personal preference and cost.

[jvclarke]

Safety first - make sure it has the recalls done. Change the mirrors to more convex so you can really see multiple lanes around you. Do the Baja Ron anti sway bar and ends so the bike grips the road around turns. i would als put the foam hand grip covers on. I added floorboards and they saved my feet.

As for vibration you feel on the Can Ams I find this very curious. I don’t feel it on mine and from my experience they Harleys are the big shakers.

Is this a new bike you are getting or used?

[Windhound]

Safety first - make sure it has the recalls done. Change the mirrors to more convex so you can really see multiple lanes around you. Do the Baja Ron anti sway bar and ends so the bike grips the road around turns. i would als put the foam hand grip covers on. I added floorboards and they saved my feet.

As for vibration you feel on the Can Ams I find this very curious. I don’t feel it on mine and from my experience they Harleys are the big shakers.

Is this a new bike you are getting or used?

Hi JV...this will be a new bike...just unpacked from the crate yesterday and put together...the excessive vibration we felt was on a
Can Am Spyder last year...felt some on the Ryker Rally...but not like on the Spyder...Have noticed from the forum that putting on the Baja Ron anti sway bar and links will probably solve alot of that bouncing around I do not like...also, we ride alot of back, curvy roads...I like to feel the road under me...totaly agree about the mirrors...noticed that when I test rode the Ryker...did not think about floor boards...good suggestion...Thank you so much

[BajaRon]

Hi JV...this will be a new bike...just unpacked from the crate yesterday and put together...the excessive vibration we felt was on a
Can Am Spyder last year...felt some on the Ryker Rally...but not like on the Spyder...Have noticed from the forum that putting on the Baja Ron anti sway bar and links will probably solve alot of that bouncing around I do not like...also, we ride alot of back, curvy roads...I like to feel the road under me...totaly agree about the mirrors...noticed that when I test rode the Ryker...did not think about floor boards...good suggestion...Thank you so much

People coming off or 2 wheels typically think the Spyder/Ryker to be 'Twitchy'. This is because they are used to the extended amount of time it takes for 2 wheels to translate handlebar input to a change in direction. Small inputs to the handlebars on 2 wheels are completely absorbed with no real effect on direction. The 2 wheel brain builds all of this into expectations. So, when you get on a Spyder/Ryker, where every (even the smallest) handlebar input is instantly transmitted to the pavement. The 2 wheel brain interprets this to be an uncontrollable, twitchy machine. When in reality, it is simply very responsive as opposed to the relatively dead input response you get on 2 wheels. This has dissuaded many potential buyers. Yet, it isn't the vehicles fault.

People then, in an attempt to stabilize the Spyder/Ryker, will tend to stiff arm the handlebars. Which makes the problem worse. Instead, you need to relax your grip, relax your wrists, forearm, etc. What you want to achieve is an isolation of input from your body movement which is affecting the handlebars, and hence, steering input. It's not the machine you have to control. It's you that you have to control.

Next, 2 wheel riders are not accustomed to the left/right sway caused by the 2 outlying wheels on an uneven roadway. 2 inline wheels don't see these anomalies. So, it isn't an issue for them. Nor, is it an issue with the Spyder/Ryker. But again, it bothers the 2 wheel brain. It's simply a different machine which requires a different approach to riding. After awhile, you don't even notice the slight left/right tilts from uneven road surfaces. With a little time in saddle and practice, you'll find the Spyder/Ryker the most stable motorcycle possible.

For me it took about 600 miles of riding the Spyder to get over this ingrained mental hump.

People not accustomed to 2 wheel motorcycles can get on a Spyder/Ryker and hit the freeway with no issues. I've seen it done. They have no 2 wheel mental baggage that they have to deal with.

[RykerRick]

People coming off or 2 wheels typically think the Spyder/Ryker to be 'Twitchy'. This is because they are used to the extended amount of time it takes for 2 wheels to translate handlebar input to a change in direction. Small inputs to the handlebars on 2 wheels are completely absorbed with no real effect on direction. The 2 wheel brain builds all of this into expectations. So, when you get on a Spyder/Ryker, where every (even the smallest) handlebar input is instantly transmitted to the pavement. The 2 wheel brain interprets this to be an uncontrollable, twitchy machine. When in reality, it is simply very responsive. This has dissuaded many potential buyers. Yet, it isn't the vehicles fault.

People then, in an attempt to stabilize the Spyder/Ryker, will tend to stiff arm the handlebars. Which makes the problem worse. Instead, you need to relax your grip, relax your wrists, forearm, etc. What you want to achieve is an isolation of input from your body movement from affecting the handlebars, and hence, steering input.

Next, 2 wheel riders are not accustomed to the left/right movement from 2 outlying wheels on an uneven roadway. 2 inline wheels don't see these anomalies. So, it isn't an issue for them. Nor, is it an issue with the Spyder/Ryker. But again, it bothers the 2 wheel brain. It's simply a different machine which requires a different approach to riding. After awhile, you don't even notice the slight left/right tilts from uneven road surfaces. With a little time in saddle and practice, you'll find the Spyder/Ryker the most stable motorcycle possible.

For me it took about 600 miles of riding the Spyder to get over this hump.

People not accustomed to 2 wheel motorcycles can get on a Spyder/Ryker and hit the freeway with no issues. I've seen it done. They have no 2 wheel mental baggage that they have to deal with.

Yep, that was me. Been riding two wheelers all my life (since about 14) and never rode a three wheeler. When I first rode the Ryker I thought, what the hell. But I bought it anyway and figured that I had a learning curve to go through. I had already done pre purchase research here and at other sites, so I knew about the sway bar and end links. I put your end links on and it helped a lot with that twitchy feeling (thank you very much). Also, just like on bikes, increasing the tire pressures by 2 or 3 psi above recommended, also improved the ride and handling. Being in Florida (all straight roads with very little or no curvy roads), I've been happy with the end link improvement and didnt feel the need for the whole sway bar kit. Id imagine if I was riding curvy mountain roads, the upgraded sway bar would help greatly with keeping those front wheels planted a little firmer.

Within the first hundred or so miles, I discovered that with that relaxed grip, the bike quickly corrects itself whenever running over irregularities in the road. So there is definitely a learning curve for two wheel riders with these machines, and once you get it, its as much fun if not more fun than the two wheelers, its definitely a more relaxed ride for me. I've kept one of my bikes just to be able to scratch that two wheel itch every now and then, but 7 months later I find myself enjoying the Ryker more & more and hardly riding the bike. As a matter of fact, I just got back from taking the bike out on a 40 miler because its been sitting for about three weeks without any run time.

[Windhound]

People coming off or 2 wheels typically think the Spyder/Ryker to be 'Twitchy'. This is because they are used to the extended amount of time it takes for 2 wheels to translate handlebar input to a change in direction. Small inputs to the handlebars on 2 wheels are completely absorbed with no real effect on direction. The 2 wheel brain builds all of this into expectations. So, when you get on a Spyder/Ryker, where every (even the smallest) handlebar input is instantly transmitted to the pavement. The 2 wheel brain interprets this to be an uncontrollable, twitchy machine. When in reality, it is simply very responsive. This has dissuaded many potential buyers. Yet, it isn't the vehicles fault.

People then, in an attempt to stabilize the Spyder/Ryker, will tend to stiff arm the handlebars. Which makes the problem worse. Instead, you need to relax your grip, relax your wrists, forearm, etc. What you want to achieve is an isolation of input from your body movement from affecting the handlebars, and hence, steering input.

Next, 2 wheel riders are not accustomed to the left/right movement from 2 outlying wheels on an uneven roadway. 2 inline wheels don't see these anomalies. So, it isn't an issue for them. Nor, is it an issue with the Spyder/Ryker. But again, it bothers the 2 wheel brain. It's simply a different machine which requires a different approach to riding. After awhile, you don't even notice the slight left/right tilts from uneven road surfaces. With a little time in saddle and practice, you'll find the Spyder/Ryker the most stable motorcycle possible.

For me it took about 600 miles of riding the Spyder to get over this hump.

People not accustomed to 2 wheel motorcycles can get on a Spyder/Ryker and hit the freeway with no issues. I've seen it done. They have no 2 wheel mental baggage that they have to deal with.

Baja...Thank you for your input...never thought about two wheeled vs 3 wheel brain. Will really try to remember to relax and just glide with bike and not over correct. Will (like everything) take time and miles. Windhound

[jvclarke]

The Baja Ron bar and end will almost feel like you are on a roller coaster track . It will feel much safer.
Without floor board you feel will hurt after an hour or two of riding. The foot pegs are pretty hard.
I recently ordered the Ultimate seat to replace my stock one. I anticipate the need on multi day trips.
For touring I got the 3 piece luggage set with lights from Slingmods. They hold a lot
As for the vibration on the Spyder, I believe the belt may be wearing or not correctly adjusted. My bet is that it didn’t vibrate until it hit 35 but was probably gone at about 40.

[BajaRon]

Baja...Thank you for your input...never thought about two wheeled vs 3 wheel brain. Will really try to remember to relax and just glide with bike and not over correct. Will (like everything) take time and miles. Windhound

If you give it a chance. I think you'll end up loving the 3 wheel ride. It is a different ride than 2 wheels, of course. And it's gotten an underserved 'Old Man's Ride' reputation. I ride mine because I love it! Not because I have no other option. Because, frankly. It's as much fun as 2 wheels (in some ways, even more). Just a different kind of fun. Because of the 2 wheels out front, it will hunt, just slightly, on bad roads. But it will come back immediatly on it's own if you leave it alone. If you try to adjust, you'll be behind the curve and just make it worse.

Believe me, trusting the machine takes some riding. But once you do, you'll find it more than worthy. These machines are so much more forgiving that 2 wheels. Hard to appreciate at first. But it will come.

I agree with those who say ride for awhile before you start changing things. Even though I manufacture and sell things to change your ride. Until you are sure of what you want, it's better to wait until you know your ride enough to know what you want. This approach will help you truly appreciate the improvement when you make the change. It also saves money and buyers remorse.

Sometimes it's good to dive in. Other times, especially when you're not familiar with the lake or pool, it's better to walk in at the start and dive in later.

Enjoy! You're on the right track!

[thereverend]

Mike, I had one do the internal belt separation at 80 mile per hour! A whole lot of vibration until I could get to the side of the Interstate, will not ever put a Kenda back on the Spyder. Wend back with a Vedestin205/60/R15