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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Rattle / Loose Front Sprocket

    About 3 months ago I began hearing a rattle coming from the engine/transmission area. The rattle was only noticeable while decelerating. So last week noticing it was getting louder I took it to my local Can Am dealer. They determined the front sprocket bolt had come lose. Background info: This is a 2019 RT Limited I purchased new in August 2019 and I began hearing the rattle with about 10,000 miles on it and now has about 18,000 miles. The tech contacted Can Am to see if it was acceptable to re-torque the bolt using red thread-lock and Can Am agreed. When I picked it up that morning the rattle was gone but after about 50 miles the rattle returned and was worse than ever. I immediately returned to the dealership and they discovered the bolt was loose again and I could see where the sprocket had damage on both ends of the splines. They have ordered a new sprocket and bolt. The splines on the transmission shaft appear to be in perfect condition.

  2. #2
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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by rc7990 View Post
    About 3 months ago I began hearing a rattle coming from the engine/transmission area. The rattle was only noticeable while decelerating. So last week noticing it was getting louder I took it to my local Can Am dealer. They determined the front sprocket bolt had come lose. Background info: This is a 2019 RT Limited I purchased new in August 2019 and I began hearing the rattle with about 10,000 miles on it and now has about 18,000 miles. The tech contacted Can Am to see if it was acceptable to re-torque the bolt using red thread-lock and Can Am agreed. When I picked it up that morning the rattle was gone but after about 50 miles the rattle returned and was worse than ever. I immediately returned to the dealership and they discovered the bolt was loose again and I could see where the sprocket had damage on both ends of the splines. They have ordered a new sprocket and bolt. The splines on the transmission shaft appear to be in perfect condition.
    Common problem which surprisingly the dealer tech wasn’t aware of..........make sure he applies moly assembly paste as listed in shop manual.....very important step! There is a TSB which addesses this issue.
    2019 F3L , Covid Blue

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Woodaddict's Avatar
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    very sloppy dealership to only "think" its the bolt problem and NOT the pulley. how could they be right there, and see the splines were worn and not REPLACE it. time to find another dealer after this!!!!
    2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400



  4. #4
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    rc out of curiosity do you down shift or let the bike do it

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodaddict View Post
    very sloppy dealership to only "think" its the bolt problem and NOT the pulley. how could they be right there, and see the splines were worn and not REPLACE it. time to find another dealer after this!!!!
    Yes, this is CanAm’s big issue, Woodaddict. Every manufacturer’s vehicles come with some kind of issue, which is usually addressed by mechanics at your dealer. However, too many CanAm dealers cut corners, and put their junior 2 wheel mechanic on Spyder maintenance and repair, resulting in someone who knows virtually nothing about Spyders, and only limited knowledge of 2 wheels, working on your Spyder.

    Sure CanAm have dropped the ball too, as evidenced by poorly designed front sprocket assemblies continuing to be rolled out, but EVERY tech working on a Spyder should be made aware of common issues like sprocket failure indicators if they are tasked to work on Spyders.

    If you have a good dealer, but they are a fair distance away, enjoy the ride there. I do not use my local dealer

    Pete.
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
    rc out of curiosity do you down shift or let the bike do it
    I’m obviously not the OP, fatboy, but just as an aside, I let the Spyder change down 95% of the time and have not experienced sprocket issues (I probably shouldn’t have said that ). Do you think manual down shift increases or decreases the possibility of sprocket failure?

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  7. #7
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    increases for sure

  8. #8
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    IMHO the really BIG problem is the Tech at that dealership , as others have posted, the Front sprocket is a well known issue on the newer Spyders. Good luck getting this fixed the way it should have been done when you made your complaint about it ..... Mike PS Can Am / BRP NEVER told them to use RED LockTite..... so somebody is lying
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-19-2021 at 06:36 PM. Reason: Fixed color display

  9. #9
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    Out of curiosity, why would manually downshifting increase the probability of this happening. Inquiring minds and all.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Yeah .. me as well. How can one ride twisty and technical roads aggressively and not down shift? I don't think manual down shifting has any bearing on front pulley wear..


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  11. #11
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    Yeah .. me as well. How can one ride twisty and technical roads aggressively and not down shift? I don't think manual down shifting has any bearing on front pulley wear..
    If it did, then surely this would've been a far more prevalent problem in the SM machines.... only that doesn't appear to be the case?!? And I've been pretty much exclusively shifting my SE down manually (sometimes even 'aggressively' ) since the day I bought it - back in 2013.... and I've never had any issues with the front pulley &/or bolt either?!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

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  12. #12
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    FWIW about 50/50 for me. I like to know the auto downshift is working as designed and as mentioned above manually shifting in the twisties or for a bit of aural enjoyment.
    2014 ST-S SE5 Cognac
    2014 ST-S , Cognac

  13. #13
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Engine braking also aids in new engine break in by compression loading the rings. It also extends brake pad life


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  14. #14
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    I agree about the engine break in, but consider which is cheaper: brake pads or clutch/transmission.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

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  15. #15
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
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    Who ever said that manually downshifting is causing clutch or transmission problems. This is a new one for me. I have owned 3 Spyders with SE5 or SE6and always manually downshifted and never one problem with clutch or transmission.



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  16. #16
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    It's a very old saying, I've heard it since I was in my 20's. "Brakes are cheaper than engines and transmissions".
    Just passing along old husbands' tales.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

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  17. #17
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    down shifting when riding aggressively is not the problem because when riding like that you usually are back on the gas when down shifting to use the engine as a brake you are applying an opposite force on the sprocket and bolt that it was designed for there for loosening bolt or wearing teeth on sprocket

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
    down shifting when riding aggressively is not the problem because when riding like that you usually are back on the gas when down shifting to use the engine as a brake you are applying an opposite force on the sprocket and bolt that it was designed for there for loosening bolt or wearing teeth on sprocket
    That certainly sounds reasonable, but since BRB isn't giving out any information why the sprocket/pulley bolts loosen, it's pure speculation. It could be that the bolt
    wears on the sprocket/pulley and loosens due to that rather than the bolt physically turning and loosening.
    Peggy and Howard

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  19. #19
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    righty tighty lefty loosey

  20. #20
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    What I was trying to say is that if the sprocket/pulley rotates a bit when, either accelerating or decelerating, which could be due to wear
    of the sprocket/pulley splines, that movement could cause wear on the area of the sprocket/pulley under the head of the bolt, thus allowing
    the bolt to not hold the sprocket/pulley as tightly as it should. Not due to the bolt physically loosening, but because the bolt no long clamps
    the sprocket/pulley as tightly as it did before the sprocket/pulley wore under the bolt head.

    As I said your answer is reasonable, but only if they actually gave a real reason behind the sprocket/pulley loosening. And if the sprocket/pulley
    doesn't physically rotate then it isn't going to loosen due to the action of deceleration/acceleration on the bolt.
    Peggy and Howard

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  21. #21
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possible View Post
    It's a very old saying, I've heard it since I was in my 20's. "Brakes are cheaper than engines and transmissions".
    Just passing along old husbands' tales.
    But, you're not hurting anything with normal engine braking.


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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    But, you're not hurting anything with normal engine braking.
    I suppose not that much, but old sayings die hard. And the thought was that unnecessary engine braking just adds unneeded wear
    and tear on the ancillary parts: clutches, transmissions, U-joints, differentials, etc. The thought was that you used the brakes for
    what they were designed: stopping. And you used the engine and transmission for what they were designed: accelerating.

    This all of course has nothing to do with engine speed matching while shifting through corners and such. Just when coming to a stop.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

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  23. #23
    Very Active Member Woodaddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possible View Post
    I suppose not that much, but old sayings die hard. And the thought was that unnecessary engine braking just adds unneeded wear
    and tear on the ancillary parts: clutches, transmissions, U-joints, differentials, etc. The thought was that you used the brakes for
    what they were designed: stopping. And you used the engine and transmission for what they were designed: accelerating.

    This all of course has nothing to do with engine speed matching while shifting through corners and such. Just when coming to a stop.
    its time to lose that thinking. motorcycle engines engine brake easier and quicker that cars / trucks. just designed to do that. if you hold that old saying to be true, you would go from gas "on", right to brake "on".............................................. ....and be wasting gas???????
    2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400



  24. #24
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    "designed to do that"? Probably not, just a side effect of high compression and relative high gearing.
    And relatively low weight.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  25. #25
    Very Active Member Woodaddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possible View Post
    "designed to do that"? Probably not, just a side effect of high compression and relative high gearing.
    And relatively low weight.
    there you go.....probably so........... so you wouldn't do any "let off the gas" and just coast be cause that would be engine braking and hurting system?
    2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400



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