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Active Member
Any tips on Changing the spark plugs/wires?
I have recently purchased new plugs and wires from Baja Ron.
Now comes the fun part - actually replacing them.
Other than enough beers and appropriate cuss words, any words of wisdom or advice before I actually start the job? I understand one of the plugs is a chore to get to.
This will be on a 2014 STS with the 998 engine.
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Keep us posted as to how it goes. Peggy has a 2013 ST-S SM5 so I'll be interested in your progress.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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Very Active Member
The front plug is the problem child. You will have to remove the entire air filter in order to get to the plug. It isn't really hard just time consuming and "fideley". Take your time and go slow. My problem was after getting it off I decided I did not want put it back on. I ordered a new housing from JT's Machine Shop. It sits right on top of the fuel injection and is only about 12" and really opens up the area. I did not note a great increase intake noise. Very easy to install.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
Good luck. The front plug is a bugger to get out.
When i did the job I took out the air box and resonator.
I replaced the air filter system with JT's Air Filter system #AF-1.
David C
2016 F3T
DIY Garage Door Opener & GPS Mount
Battery tender cable
Rear IPS Pack Rack
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I never got the air box out....I was able to get to the plug around it with a bit of twistin n cussin! It was a big job. If I had to do it again.Id pay someone to do it. FYI The canister bypass is the best thing ive done for my ST. I used a check valve in the line n have zero issuses with gas/fumes leakin out. GOOD LUCK!
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Active Member
I did the plugs last year on an RT, so while the engine is probably the same, some of the body structure may be different or maybe not. Either way it always helps to see more pics. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ance-on-the-RT
2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)
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Active Member
Originally Posted by TONYO
I never got the air box out....I was able to get to the plug around it with a bit of twistin n cussin! It was a big job. If I had to do it again.Id pay someone to do it. FYI The canister bypass is the best thing ive done for my ST. I used a check valve in the line n have zero issuses with gas/fumes leakin out. GOOD LUCK!
Well, I started on the task at about 12 noon and stopped at 6:30 PM due to being tired and frustrated.
I stripped off all the necessary body panels and then dug into the innards to get to the front plug. I got the top of the airbox off and then the screws holding the bottom out, but there was just no way the bottom was going to come free without cutting a whole lot of wire ties and disconnecting several connectors. I was able to pull off the front plug boot connector, however, due to a hidden wire tie underneath the lower airbox area, I could not get the wire to pull out either direction. I finally just cut the wire and attached a length of string and pulled it out. I then connected the new plug wire to the string and after about an hour of further cussing and cut hands and fingers, was able to maneuver it thru the gap under the lower airbox panel and into its proper position. Of course, the rear plug was a walk in the park.
Tomorrow, I will torque the plugs to the proper setting and attached the wires and see (and pray) that the machine will start up OK.
Next time, I will just buy a new bike...........
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Active Member
After reading this post and others I think I figured out a quick and easy way to do this with minimal effort. I think I can take my right hand and reach into my back right pocket and use that to pull out my wallet. Then use the left hand to pull out some cash and hand it to the service guy that replaced my plugs!
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Active Member
I finally got the job done today.
The only tense moment was when I first turned on the key and hit the starter button and nothing happened. It was then I noticed the kill switch button was off.
The bike started up immediately and ran well. I noticed that a previous occasional slight engine "miss" was gone. The idle was much smoother.
I then took my time and re-installed the removed components one by one, re-starting the engine each time just to make sure all was still ok, so I wouldn't have to remove everything again just in case something suddenly went wrong.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a decent day around 50, so I will take it out and give it a good test ride.
Remind me to never do this again..........
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Just Curious..how many miles on the bike are there when you did this?
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Very Active Member
Congratulations on a job well done!
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Active Member
Replacing the wires and plugs had the same effect for me, the miss and lumpy idle was gone. Bike didnt have that many miles on it maybe around 10K, but it was about 10 years old. Heat and time took their toll. Glad it worked out for you.
2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)
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Very Active Member
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Praireroads
Just Curious..how many miles on the bike are there when you did this?
Just shy of 50K.
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