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  1. #1
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    Default Buying advice for someone new to cycles

    So to start things off let me just say that I am not only new to Spyders (looking to get one, don't have one yet) but I am new to cycles in general. What I want to do is pick the brains of those who have been at this for a while about various subjects concerning buying a Spyder. I know two of these will depend on year. I would throw the manual vs semi-auto in there but most likely I will bite the bullet price wise and get the SE. Thanks in advance for allowing me to pick your brains and any advice given.

    • What year would you draw a limit on if buying used?
    • Mileage
    • Pricing
    • F3 or F3-S (Is the difference in the two worth the extra cost) (Plan on getting the S but just curious)

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    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    I'm no help on purchasing older models but you don't need to know how to ride a motorcycle to operate a Can-Am. The only things in common are you get wind in your face when moving and you go faster when you rotate your right wrist top to the back.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
    2020 RT base , Chalk White

  3. #3
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayBJ View Post
    I'm no help on purchasing older models but you don't need to know how to ride a motorcycle to operate a Can-Am. The only things in common are you get wind in your face when moving and you go faster when you rotate your right wrist top to the back.
    Yep part of what I like about it, that and one reason why I'm looking at Can Am is cause I've had problems with my back for some years now. So propping a bike up at every stop isn't something I want to be doing. Also heard "don't have a death grip, it'll handle better "

  4. #4
    Active Member AVBIZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anhur View Post
    So to start things off let me just say that I am not only new to Spyders (looking to get one, don't have one yet) but I am new to cycles in general. What I want to do is pick the brains of those who have been at this for a while about various subjects concerning buying a Spyder. I know two of these will depend on year. I would throw the manual vs semi-auto in there but most likely I will bite the bullet price wise and get the SE. Thanks in advance for allowing me to pick your brains and any advice given.

    • What year would you draw a limit on if buying used?
    • Mileage
    • Pricing
    • F3 or F3-S (Is the difference in the two worth the extra cost) (Plan on getting the S but just curious)
    I would recommend taking the rider class so you can get properly briefed on all things Spyder/Ryker and you can probably ride all 3 platforms- RT/F3/Ryker while there. After you decide which platform fits you best then you can decide new or used. Can-Am Spyder are pricey- like Honda Goldwing/BMW expensive so you want to invest wisely. That may mean going used for your 1st one. My 2 cents....

    1973 Honda CL 350 Scrambler (given to Son)
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    The death grip is common amongst novice riders with handlebars. You need to relax and allow the machine to track. Also, your hands will stay warmer if you aren't clinching the grip. Laser alignment will help with tracking with minimum input.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
    2020 RT base , Chalk White

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    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    I already know that Ryker is not going to be the best fit, originally it was my first interest given the low price range, given that it is made more for "around town" or "short rides". I plan to make some long rides and likely commuting. I don't think I'll be getting a RT just yet given it's general price. At most I would go F3-T. I wanted to get a new Spyder to avoid inheriting problems from someone else. But it's very likely that I will get over that and buy a used.

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    That was my biggest problem when I went from a Harley to a Spyder. You cannot hold the handlebars like you do on a regular motorcycle. Actually it’s rather nice because you relax more.

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    The best advice on buying a Spyder for someone who is unfamiliar with motorcycle riding in general and Spyder riding in particular would be to go to your local dealer or on the Can Am website and see where and when you can take a riding class. This will give you a good introduction to the 3 wheel world and to Spyder/Rykers especially. Then you can decide what to buy, Spyder RT, Spyder F3, or Ryker, new or used. We welcome your interest and hope you have a good class experience and will be joining us on your Spyder soon. Lots of good riding weather coming up soon and these are really fun machines to experience Mother Nature on.
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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    IMO, you would be wise to select the SE vice SM if for no other reason than if you ultimately find you don't like Spydering the SE will have better resale attractiveness. I don't pay much attention to the F3s because I prefer the RT, but depending on your purchase you should inquire if the one you want has been laser aligned using the Rolo system because it is very important to the handling of the machine.
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  10. #10
    Active Member Spyder Hawk's Avatar
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    I have had a Spyder since 2014 and I was in the same boat as you. I fractured my back 3 years ago and I was afraid I would never ride again. Happily the Spyder was approved by my doctor and proved to be more comfortable than my SUV. It forces you into an upright position and doesn't cause any direct pressure on the back. That being said I started out with a 2013 ST-S that after many years, and lots of money, became an ST-S Limited+. I recently upgraded to an 2018 F3-Limited and am very happy with it. Take note as well of the slide bars for the running boards. It makes a huge difference in how you sit on the bike. More than likely it is the first thing you will have to buy right out of the gate. Unless you are tall or slightly above average as most of the Spyders come preset in position 3. Now to answer your questions.

    What year would you draw a limit on if buying used?
    I wouldn't go beyond a 2018. There were lots of bugs in the first few years so it seemed best to stay away from potential problems.

    Mileage.
    The mileage is very good especially when compared to the ST. I get about 230 miles to a tank. That is mostly city stop and go traffic too. It would be slightly higher on the freeway. The 2018 Limited also has an Echo Mode for long trips.

    Pricing.
    If you are going to do it do it now. November is the ideal month to get any vehicle. It is the end of the model year, they have lots of trade ins, and the new models are coming in. They basically rent the Spyders from BRP so the longer it sits the more money they loose. You can expect to pay 19 to 25 grand for a 2018 to 2020 depending on which model you pick. There are not a lot of 2018 - 2019 models left to choose from out there. I stayed with the 2018 because they removed the blinkers from the side mirrors on the 2019. I feel like this was a mistake as it lessens you viability to on coming traffic.

    F3 or F3-S (Is the difference in the two worth the extra cost) (Plan on getting the S but just curious)
    I don't know about the F3 or F3-S, both are a little to basic for me. You are going to get a lot of wind in your face so make sure you have a good helmet. Both of those models don't have a fairing or windshield. They are a little bit lighter so they should be a bit faster but that should be nominal. For the money there doesn't seem to be a lot of difference. If you move up to the F3-T you will get a lot more options and the side saddle bags.

    If you have a dealer near you go and test drive them and see for yourself which is the best. Nothing beats sitting on them and comparing them to each other in real life. I would stay away from internet deals if you can. From what I understand it is very easy to get scammed with motorcycle deals. If it sounds to good it probably is.

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    No matter what you do, be sure you sit on it and take it for a ride if possible. I was all set to get the RTL, and did not like the way i sat on the machine. The minute i sat on the F3L, i knew it was the one. The feel is totally different to alot of people. Taking the riding couse sponsered by Can am is a big plus as well.

  12. #12
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    Thank you very much Spyder Hawk that was the information I was looking for. The bit about the blinkers is interesting - wonder if it was to do away with a wiring harness or maybe just because they move them to the fender. As for windshield I am going to get a aftermarket anyway because theirs is just not going to be tall enough for me. I'm hoping for a February but not banking on it. No pun intended . I have no doubt I'll like spydering. Sometime back after my dad got a goldwing with the two wheel mod (training wheels as some jokingly call them), he got me on it to practice shifting. The feel is different from driving a car for sure, like your going faster than you actually are. For a lack of a better way to put it. But that's sort of what it felt like to me after driving a car for so long.
    Last edited by Anhur; 01-10-2021 at 07:04 PM. Reason: February not November >.<

  13. #13
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    Year? anything beyond 2015 so you get the triple.
    Mileage: Anything under 100K is good to go. You'll have a full 200K after that.
    Price? Whatever you can afford.

    I'm not sure who street rides two wheeled motorcycles with a death grip, but if you are you're doing it wrong. I use the same "soft grip" on my F3T that I used on all my two wheelers throughout my my 700,000 mile career. Steering, on the other hand is different. On a two wheeler you would just counter steer to initiate the turn and let the bike's trail handle the rest (see video). The Spyder requires a firm grip in the direction of the turn just like a quad.

    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

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    Active Member Spyder Hawk's Avatar
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    Anhur double check on the windshield before you decide. The F3 and F3-S don't have the same fairing as the other Spyders. I thought it would be a simple switch on my bike, it came with the Tall Boy screen, and it wasn't. The different windshields call for different brackets and to switch them you are looking at 300.00 to 400.00 bucks on top of an optional windshield. Those can run from 150.00 to 500.00 all by themselves.

  15. #15
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyder Hawk View Post
    Anhur double check on the windshield before you decide. The F3 and F3-S don't have the same fairing as the other Spyders. I thought it would be a simple switch on my bike, it came with the Tall Boy screen, and it wasn't. The different windshields call for different brackets and to switch them you are looking at 300.00 to 400.00 bucks on top of an optional windshield. Those can run from 150.00 to 500.00 all by themselves.
    Have been looking at the F4 with the tallest coming in at $570 and includes mounting kit. Saw 7Jurock on other part of forum and for it's tallest is $170 (upon looking back at site since you mention brackets) it doesn't come with bracket kit. So if anyone knows does it use factory mounting or do you buy mounting kit?

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    .... I've been riding ( dozens X3 ) motorcycles for the past 60 + years. I've read what has been said already. ... mostly good advice .... If you haven't yet ridden a Spyder, when you do Drive it like a Car, test the Brake feel immediately, and Gently steer it. .... You are better off not ever riding a Two wheeler, you have nothing to UNLEARN .... I've owned three since 09, my 2014 RT is probably my last Spyder ( I'm almost 74 ) ... I wouldn't own any V-Twin Spyder they were high rev bikes, that needed more maintenance then the current 1330 three cyl., Also BRP no longer makes that engine for sale in any Spyders ... so parts will become a problem .... A forum member sold His Low miles 2014 RT S for $ 10,500 this past Fall, so if you watch and wait bargains are there... Any used Spyder needs more scrutiny just like any other veh..... Most I've seen are taken care of like most Harley's. .... I wouldn't go back to TWO wheels even if I could ( physically ), nor would I ever buy a Manual trans bike. ... Most supercars today have multi-speed Paddle shifters, like the spyder SE trans..... 2020/2021 Corvettes no longer have the Manual trans. ( even the Racing only versions )...... If you get an RT, " Utopia " makes the BEST backrest in the after-market, I've had one on Every touring bike I ever owned..... Hope this helps ..... Mike and the only issue ( of note ) on 2014-15-16 RT's was the DESS module .... The part sells for about $140.00 and is easily replaced by you

  17. #17
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    Thanks Blue. Yes I'm thankful for coming into this having not rode 2 wheels simply cause there will not be any "I miss this or that about 2 wheel riding". My dad just turned 70 in Dec., wouldn't mind seeing him trade that Goldwing with the 3 wheel mod on it in for a Spyder. But hey who knows. I do think the electric shifter is the way for me. It just seems to me that fiddling with a clutch all the time even if it becomes muscle memory takes a little from being able to just pay attention to the ride itself. I know the die hard manual guys will disagree.

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anhur View Post
    Thanks Blue. Yes I'm thankful for coming into this having not rode 2 wheels simply cause there will not be any "I miss this or that about 2 wheel riding". My dad just turned 70 in Dec., wouldn't mind seeing him trade that Goldwing with the 3 wheel mod on it in for a Spyder. But hey who knows. I do think the electric shifter is the way for me. It just seems to me that fiddling with a clutch all the time even if it becomes muscle memory takes a little from being able to just pay attention to the ride itself. I know the die hard manual guys will disagree.
    AS far as the GoldWing 3 wheel conversion .... In 09 I had decided my Balance issues were going to get worse not better .... so I checked out the Wing conversion and the H.D. trikes ..... I decided they were " death machines " .... tried the Spyder GS and fell in love .... traded my 03 Wing on the spot, and have zero regrets ..... good luck .... Mike

  19. #19
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    Agreed. The conversion has no real give to it and as such rattles like hell. Also trikes like the H.D. and others put the stirring on a single with the two back tires left to possibly pop up on one side. That may not be the best way of putting it. But I like the reverse trike setup much better - it's more stable.

  20. #20
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    I am partial to the F3T and L models due to their ability to be adjusted to fit you and that you sit in them and not on them. I am also partial to 7Jurock windshields - a lot of bang for the buck. Yes, they utilize the original w/s brackets and that's the beauty of them, where I'm concerned. No awkward looking black brackets for this OCD guy, thank you. I have 2 7Jucock w/s, a normal width 16" tall and and extra wide 18" tall. Both have a flip, or reverse curve at the top. That makes the w/s shed wind as though it was taller. You are better off with a w/s you can see over and not through. Your first ride in rain or fog will let you know why I say that.
    You are wise to go with the electric shift, especially if you never had to squeeze a clutch lever on an all day ride. You are also wise to join this forum - as you can see, there is a lot of seriously good information to be gotten here.
    Lastly; I second the suggestions to take the Spyder riding course.
    Good luck.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  21. #21
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    I like always like to have somewhere I can draw information from like this. People that experience in something always good information vs someone trying to sell something. If I can find a good enough deal on a F3T I would like to get one - extra luggage, radio built in, etc. But in mean time the F3-S maybe my range.

  22. #22
    Member Anhur's Avatar
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    Apparently Spyders don't depreciate much. 2018 F3-T for 20K while asking 21.5 K for 2021.

  23. #23
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anhur View Post
    Apparently Spyders don't depreciate much. 2018 F3-T for 20K while asking 21.5 K for 2021.
    That's high. A rough gauge to go by is the year is the price. A 2018 on average would be $18K. Keep checking Craigslist, FB marketplace, CycleTrader and other cycle selling venues. You will eventfully hit pay dirt.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  24. #24
    Very Active Member EdMat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anhur View Post
    Apparently Spyders don't depreciate much. 2018 F3-T for 20K while asking 21.5 K for 2021.
    Some folks seem to think they are selling something gold plated but I bet if they were the buyer they would want bargain barn pricing. Glad I was not taking a drink of something when I saw a couple prices on farsebook this afternoon, they had to come with gold nuggets and diamonds.
    Look at some of the post on this site for for past sale items may help you out.
    2019 RT Limited , Phoenix Orange

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    If you don't mind going just a little bit older, there is a '17 F3-T in the For Sale forum.

    Less than 1500 miles, asking $16,500.

    I don't know enough about the F3 line to say whether that is a good deal or not, but it's worth checking out.

    .
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