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  1. #1
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    Default Question battery\Trickle charger

    So I ride as much as possible year around. The bike might sit for 2 weeks at most. Otherwise, I ride it to work every day I can.

    For the people who use trickle chargers, I read up how to get to the battery.

    Do you take the frunk out, and all that and then leave it on the trickle charger?

    I ask because if I did that on the weeks where it does sit for a week or two, that means I would need to reinstall everything just to go ride. Is that how it is? Or is there a way to get the trickle charger to the bike without removing that crap out of the way?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-WM...%2C177&sr=8-11

    1-time install this cable to battery. Let it hang in your frunk/under cowl/etc. and connect when needed.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
    2020 RT base , Chalk White

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Battery maintainer preferably not a trickle charger & attach a pigtail for ez connections.
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rge-maintainer

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    Very Active Member Snoking1127's Avatar
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    I extended the cable with the ring terminals and brought it out behind the drivers side front wheel, through the plastic grill near the top inside corner with about another 10-12" of wire. When not using the battery maintainer, I put the little cap on the cable end and push it back through another opening in the grill.
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    2018 RT Limited - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix/ 2018 RT Limited Chrome
    Champagne Metallic Lake Stevens, Wa

    (Champagne/Hooker)Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Federal Formosa's front and General out back, and driver backrest.

    Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zuno XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer up North and Hookie my winter trike down South.

    (Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM drivers backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with volt meter, dash cam, foam grips - magic mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.


  5. #5
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    My Battery Tender Jr. is zip tied to an overhead twin receptacle in the garage. I roll into the bay, kill the engine, pop the frunk and plug it into the pigtail.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcking12 View Post
    So I ride as much as possible year around. The bike might sit for 2 weeks at most. Otherwise, I ride it to work every day I can.

    For the people who use trickle chargers, I read up how to get to the battery.

    Do you take the frunk out, and all that and then leave it on the trickle charger?

    I ask because if I did that on the weeks where it does sit for a week or two, that means I would need to reinstall everything just to go ride. Is that how it is? Or is there a way to get the trickle charger to the bike without removing that crap out of the way?
    First, what do you ride? Getting to the battery on an RT is easiest. The F3 is probably 2nd easiest. No idea on a Ryker. On a 2013-current RT, unzip the rearmost section of the frunk liner (if you have one) then remove the (2) T30 bolts (facing upwards at the rear of the frunk). The battery is under that. (Not sure if the 2010-2012 RTs are set up differently.) If you have an F3, I believe you need to remove the frunk hard liner. I "think" this is just held in with (4) push pins. I think Lamont said in one of his videos that he doesn't even reinstall the pushpins on his F3. Again, I have no idea where the battery even is on a Ryker.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Snoking1127's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MONK View Post
    First, what do you ride? Getting to the battery on an RT is easiest. The F3 is probably 2nd easiest. No idea on a Ryker. On a 2013-current RT, unzip the rearmost section of the frunk liner (if you have one) then remove the (2) T30 bolts (facing upwards at the rear of the frunk). The battery is under that. (Not sure if the 2010-2012 RTs are set up differently.) If you have an F3, I believe you need to remove the frunk hard liner. I "think" this is just held in with (4) push pins. I think Lamont said in one of his videos that he doesn't even reinstall the pushpins on his F3. Again, I have no idea where the battery even is on a Ryker.
    From another OP's post. "So I have a 2016 F3-T and have looked into buying a new latest model F3-L" No post that he has purchased the new one yet.
    2018 RT Limited - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix/ 2018 RT Limited Chrome
    Champagne Metallic Lake Stevens, Wa

    (Champagne/Hooker)Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Federal Formosa's front and General out back, and driver backrest.

    Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zuno XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer up North and Hookie my winter trike down South.

    (Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM drivers backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with volt meter, dash cam, foam grips - magic mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.


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    Do you really need a battery maintainer if the longest the trike sits is only two weeks?

  9. #9
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmjweber45 View Post
    Do you really need a battery maintainer if the longest the trike sits is only two weeks?
    Can't hurt. Many dealers install the dongle by default on new sales. It's also a good source of direct 12V gear like heated clothes, USB adapters, etc.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
    2020 RT base , Chalk White

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoking1127 View Post
    From another OP's post. "So I have a 2016 F3-T and have looked into buying a new latest model F3-L" No post that he has purchased the new one yet.
    Thanks. I wasn't going to spend time researching anything. My response covered everything but a Ryker.

  11. #11
    Active Member MonPaul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayBJ View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-WM...%2C177&sr=8-11

    1-time install this cable to battery. Let it hang in your frunk/under cowl/etc. and connect when needed.
    I agree, probably the easiest harness to connect/disconnect. I was surprised to find this already on my 18RTL

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    If you choose to use star washers (I don't), they DO NOT go between the cable and the post. Use them under the screw head. My F3T had a SAE pigtail for a "maintainer" charger laying in the frunk ready to bolt on. If you plan on unplugging it at the SAE plug often, try not to twist it. Twisting the SAE will eventually break the connector and the plug will heat up enough to melt and maybe cause a fire.

    Pulling the liner from an F3 is easy. Pop the latch cover (it's in front of the headlight and has a depiction of a computer on the non throttle side) as shown. Remove the 4 body pins and lift the frunk liner out and there is the battery. When you put the service cover back on, put some plumber's grease (non-petroleum) on the lugs to make it easier to lift next time.
    front service.jpgtrailer-two.jpg
    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

  13. #13
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    My apologies guys. I decided to keep my current bike another year. SO it is the 2016 F3-T.

    Also appreciate all of the suggestions.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Snoking1127's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcking12 View Post
    My apologies guys. I decided to keep my current bike another year. SO it is the 2016 F3-T.

    Also appreciate all of the suggestions.
    Thanks for the update. Way to many times in forums like this the OP disappears never to be heard from again.
    2018 RT Limited - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix/ 2018 RT Limited Chrome
    Champagne Metallic Lake Stevens, Wa

    (Champagne/Hooker)Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Federal Formosa's front and General out back, and driver backrest.

    Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zuno XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer up North and Hookie my winter trike down South.

    (Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM drivers backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with volt meter, dash cam, foam grips - magic mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.


  15. #15
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    My 2020 f3s ss had the battery tender connection installed under the plastic service panel accessible when the frunk is open. I used the same connection plug type to power my gerbing heated gear in the winter. At any time I can disconnect the plug and use it for the battery tender.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Time2ride View Post
    My 2020 f3s ss had the battery tender connection installed under the plastic service panel accessible when the frunk is open. I used the same connection plug type to power my gerbing heated gear in the winter. At any time I can disconnect the plug and use it for the battery tender.
    I will look at mine tonight and see if I have something like that already

  17. #17
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Asking for the Yuasa battery number for a 2017 F3L. If my research is correct, it's YTX24HL-BS. Right?
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  18. #18
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    Asking for the Yuasa battery number for a 2017 F3L. If my research is correct, it's YTX24HL-BS. Right?
    That number is the correct size ..... I believe the BS means bottle ( of acid ) supplied for filling at home ..... I prefer filling and ( proper ) charging myself ..... just follow the simple charging DIRECTIONS they recommend ..... Mike

  19. #19
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    That number is the correct size ..... I believe the BS means bottle ( of acid ) supplied for filling at home ..... I prefer filling and ( proper ) charging myself ..... just follow the simple charging DIRECTIONS they recommend ..... Mike
    Thanks Mike. Burning the midnight oil tonight??
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  20. #20
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    Thanks Mike. Burning the midnight oil tonight??
    I rarely hit the sheets before 2 to 3 am ..................Mike

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