Hey BikerChris, are the 2 marks on the outer rim of the new pulley orientation marks?? Also, could you please provide a link for the new pulley & bolt combo? Thanks in advance......
Can the Front Pulley be removed and installed without loosening belt tension?
Shop manual labor is .5 hour for this proceedure. Wondering if there is a short cut to arrive in completing this operation in .5/hour.
Found this in the 2020 updates to F3 and RT. Look at last sentence.
Rattlebars, all the best using the method you link to, I did not watch the video you linked, just my own experience knows only loosen the rear axle if absolutely required.
I suggest you watch the video and pay attention to the comments he makes. I stated the "other" method of loosening the belt tension as an alterative. Pulling the rear shock bolt after jacking the bike will loosen the belt sufficiently to just move it off the pulley without much effort at all.
I suggest you watch the video and pay attention to the comments he makes. I stated the "other" method of loosening the belt tension as an alterative. Pulling the rear shock bolt after jacking the bike will loosen the belt sufficiently to just move it off the pulley without much effort at all.
If loosening the axle and adjuster works well for you, that is awesome. Since buying our Spyder in 2014, I have watched many of the videos regarding what you suggest. From experience of removing rear wheels and accomplishing other tasks without removing the rear wheel but removing the belt, I prefer the methods I use, but whatever you like is fine by me.
So, if you have trouble getting the old front pulley off, would it be a good idea to replace it?
It depends what you're asking...do you mean it's a difficult job for your expertise or the pulley won't easily slide off the shaft?
If the pulley is tight on the shaft because it has red rust, skoosh some release oil down the spline - WD40 or similar - and it will likely slide right off. It's not seized on, it's some form of wedging by the dry dust.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
Can the Front Pulley be removed and installed without loosening belt tension.
The short and accurate answer is, yes. Release the hand brake and chock the wheels. Lift the rear of the bike on a jack, as the swing arm lowers it removes some of the tension from the belt. Pull outwards on the top of the belt and roll the rear wheel backwards to walk the belt off the rear sprocket. Mind and not trap your fingers between belt and sprocket! Contrary to other postings, this is perfectly safe for the belt.
Replacement is even simpler, fit the belt over the lower sector of the sprocket and push upwards on the wheel. Very easy and simple to do.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
Not really possible with models that have side storage compartments. RT, F3L & T. I can barley see the top of the sprocket and the bottom has a guard which is only 3 bolts. In my situation the belt has not been adjusted in 20,000 miles and the axel bolt was locked solid as the wheel did not move until I wacked it forward with a very large hammer. It was a good time to get some penetrating lube into and on the axel area in case it needs to come off down the road. Obviously several things to be considered. I used penetrating oil 2 weeks before I tried to remove it. NO WAY was that bugger coming off without my 3 jaw puller.
Not really possible with models that have side storage compartments. RT, F3L & T. I can barley see the top of the sprocket and the bottom has a guard which is only 3 bolts. In my situation the belt has not been adjusted in 20,000 miles and the axel bolt was locked solid as the wheel did not move until I wacked it forward with a very large hammer. It was a good time to get some penetrating lube into and on the axel area in case it needs to come off down the road. Obviously several things to be considered. I used penetrating oil 2 weeks before I tried to remove it. NO WAY was that bugger coming off without my 3 jaw puller.
The method of walking a belt off under tension for belts fabricated with carbon fibres for reinforcement is highly discouraged. As the belt crosses the edge of the pulley, the fibres can be compromised.
For aramid belts, fibreglass belts, or most other fibres it is not a serious concern to walk the belt off the pulley. Those fibres tend to have some elasticity and will not fracture as easily as carbon. Apparently, when tne carbon belt is damaged, the damage can not be seen,.
Don’t kill the messenger, those wishing to roll the belts off or wanting to loosen the axle, whatever you find as best is ok with me. Just bet it would ruin a person day snapping a drive belt in traffic. Risk vs Reward...
Not really possible with models that have side storage compartments. RT, F3L & T. I can barley see the top of the sprocket and the bottom has a guard which is only 3 bolts. In my situation the belt has not been adjusted in 20,000 miles and the axel bolt was locked solid as the wheel did not move until I wacked it forward with a very large hammer. It was a good time to get some penetrating lube into and on the axel area in case it needs to come off down the road. Obviously several things to be considered. I used penetrating oil 2 weeks before I tried to remove it. NO WAY was that bugger coming off without my 3 jaw puller.
Respectfully ... I have an F3T and didn't have a problem that I would call "impossible" in removing the rear wheel for a tire change @ 13k. Very easy once it's jacked up. And, to remove the rear wheel, one must first remove the belt. Setting the tension with a krikit II (2) as per my linked video requires some reaching, but it was possible as well. I'm 72 with arthritis, bad knees and war wounds.
The method of walking a belt off under tension for belts fabricated with carbon fibres for reinforcement is highly discouraged. As the belt crosses the edge of the pulley, the fibres can be compromised.
For aramid belts, fibreglass belts, or most other fibres it is not a serious concern to walk the belt off the pulley. Those fibres tend to have some elasticity and will not fracture as easily as carbon. Apparently, when tne carbon belt is damaged, the damage can not be seen,.
Dont kill the messenger, those wishing to roll the belts off or wanting to loosen the axle, whatever you find as best is ok with me. Just bet it would ruin a person day snapping a drive belt in traffic. Risk vs Reward...
PMK you normally talk sense but in this case you're not. The sprocket is rimless so there is no overloading of the belt when it rides over a rim, when the wheel hangs down the belt tension is released considerably and finally the belts are flexible! The compromising of the carbon fibre, well I think you invented that.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
Not really possible with models that have side storage compartments. RT, F3L & T.
If you look carefully you'll see the pictures of the belt rolling off are on an RT. You do have to get down to reach it though but I thought that would be a given.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
PMK you normally talk sense but in this case you're not. The sprocket is rimless so there is no overloading of the belt when it rides over a rim, when the wheel hangs down the belt tension is released considerably and finally the belts are flexible! The compromising of the carbon fibre, well I think you invented that.
Fair enough, not my Spyder or advice to remove it that way, so whatever works for others as I have no issue with it.
Respectfully ... I have an F3T and didn't have a problem that I would call "impossible" in removing the rear wheel for a tire change @ 13k. Very easy once it's jacked up. And, to remove the rear wheel, one must first remove the belt. Setting the tension with a krikit II (2) as per my linked video requires some reaching, but it was possible as well. I'm 72 with arthritis, bad knees and war wounds.
Think you read my post wrong. I favor moving the wheel forward after loosing axel and adjusters. I'm against sliding the belt off under pressure mostly because on my model there is not easy access. Mostly because of the side luggage compartments limiting belt access.
I was talking about the sprocket needing a puller. I was surprised my axle didn't move freely after I loosened it and needed a big hit with a hammer. I love my Krikit. No problems pulling the rear wheel.
Spyder F3 - Sport & Cruiser Touring
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Originally Posted by bikerchris1270
to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
