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  1. #1
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    Default Has anyone ELSE tried changing the rear signals to LEDs?

    Along with adding a few other extra lights, I added this pair of LEDs from Amazon. I was encouraged by their claim of "Canbus Error Free". Note that these are NOT 1156A lights, the bayonet pins are offset at a different angle to match the Spyder sockets.

    Now that they are installed, there is, in fact, a hyperflash issue. I have gone through the process (many times) that is given in this video by Lamonster. The hyperflash still exists. I got a pair of 6Ω resistors at Auto Zone that are supposed to correct this and installed them. Even after doing the reset procedure a few more times, it still hyperflashes after the third flash.

    The lights themselves are GREAT. Unlike many other LED bulb conversions, they are bright and fill the reflector area very nicely. I would like to keep them, but don't want the hyperflashing.

    My next attempt will be to double-up on the resistors to see if TWO resistors on one side will help at all. Oh, yeah, I'm installing them correctly between the turn signal wire and ground.

    Any suggestions?

    .
    HER ride:
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    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    Steve, I went through the same mess when I installed LED turns in the rear of my 2015. I did the process many times and many ways. I think I even jumped up and down on one foot while swinging a dead chicken counter clockwise at midnight. No joy. I just said heck with it and let em hyper flash then all of a sudden on a ride they started working like they should. I have no explanation other than the computer finally recognized and corrected the issue. Not much help I know, but just my experience.
    2015 RT , Black

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    Well, that's sorta encouraging.
    And I was hoping to get another 86 miles on the odometer to round out the year at 10,000.
    Might be a warm-ish day coming up in the next week and a half.

    I'm going to try doubling-up on the resistors tomorrow night, then I'll put it together and go for a ride.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  4. #4
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    My next attempt will be to double-up on the resistors to see if TWO resistors on one side will help at all. Oh, yeah, I'm installing them correctly between the turn signal wire and ground.

    Any suggestions?

    .
    I think the 6 Ω resistor is drawing too much current from the cluster. From what I calculate based on the OEM bulb being 10 watts, you need around 12 to 24 Ω parallel to the new LED bulbs to get near the same amp draw on the cluster as what the OEM bulbs draw. So connect the new resistors in series with the one you have. You might take the resistor from one side and connect it to the other side and see if that fixes it. If it does then buy the additional resistors.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  5. #5
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    Thanks, IMS.

    10 watts??? The usual bulb on most other vehicles is an 1156 or 1157 (or other variants), which are 27-32 watts. I know it's dangerous, but I assumed the 7507 would be similar.

    When I get home this afternoon, I will measure the resistance of the bulbs. Then I will try the resistors in series AND in parallel, then update this thread. Then, if it hasn't started raining, I'll go for at least a short ride, as Navydad suggests.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  6. #6
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    Thanks, IMS.

    10 watts??? The usual bulb on most other vehicles is an 1156 or 1157 (or other variants), which are 27-32 watts. I know it's dangerous, but I assumed the 7507 would be similar.

    When I get home this afternoon, I will measure the resistance of the bulbs. Then I will try the resistors in series AND in parallel, then update this thread. Then, if it hasn't started raining, I'll go for at least a short ride, as Navydad suggests.

    .
    The specification list in the owners manual for my 2014 RT lists the rear turn signal bulbs as 10 watt. That's what I'm going by.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  7. #7
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    Well then, it's no wonder they can't be seen.

    I'll be checking them when I get home in a few hours. Don't have to be back to work until next Monday, so there's plenty of time.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  8. #8
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    Thanks, IMS.

    10 watts??? The usual bulb on most other vehicles is an 1156 or 1157 (or other variants), which are 27-32 watts. I know it's dangerous, but I assumed the 7507 would be similar.

    When I get home this afternoon, I will measure the resistance of the bulbs. Then I will try the resistors in series AND in parallel, then update this thread. Then, if it hasn't started raining, I'll go for at least a short ride, as Navydad suggests.

    .
    You need to measure the resistance indirectly, i.e., volts and amps across the bulb. An incandescent bulb filament resistance increases as it heats up. Measuring it cold won't be accurate. The rate of the rise and fall of the current flow through an LED is much steeper than with an incandescent filament. How much this might affect the cluster electronics I have no idea. It might play into what the parallel resistor value needs to be. I added LED turn signal lights in parallel with the OEM signal lights and have no problem with flash rate.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    I added LED turn signal lights in parallel with the OEM signal lights and have no problem with flash rate.
    I added the TricLED setup on the rear that has the red/yellow lights on the saddlebags and had no problems, but when I added the sequential signals on the front fenders, I had to reset the flash rate. Now, I am replacing the rear signal bulbs with LEDS. It is my understanding that those are the last incandescent bulbs on the bike.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  10. #10
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    PS Don't forget your sister what's whatever her sister-in-law might be getting.
    2014 RT Limited , Pearl White

  11. #11
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    I added the TricLED setup on the rear that has the red/yellow lights on the saddlebags and had no problems, but when I added the sequential signals on the front fenders, I had to reset the flash rate. Now, I am replacing the rear signal bulbs with LEDS. It is my understanding that those are the last incandescent bulbs on the bike.
    Backup light and license plate are incandescent, as well at the big ones, the headlights! And the OEM frunk light also. At least that's what I get from the 2017 Operators Guide. You must have just exceeded the amperage setting in the cluster with the sequential ones. They must draw a little more than fixed LED lights. I forgot to mention above that I added LED strip lights on the mirrors for turn signals. IIRC, those didn't trigger hyperflashing either. By maybe they did and I've forgotten.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Backup light and license plate are incandescent, as well at the big ones, the headlights! And the OEM frunk light also.
    1. Backup lights have already been replaced with LEDs.
    2. License light is GONE. Sort of. The stock light is gone, because I installed an LED frame from Signal Dynamics. (More on that in a bit.)
    3. Headlights have been changed to LED, via Lamonster kit.
    3a. Fog lights have been changed to LED, via Lamonster kit.
    4. I think the frunk light is an LED, but it is so pitiful, I had to use a candle to find it.
    It has been replaced by a truck bed light that does the job quite well.
    I wired the new light to the stock switch, so there is nothing extra to turn it on, just open the frunk.

    Signal Dynamics (SD) offers a selection of license frames with LEDs. I have one on my Suzuki that I got 10 years ago at Americade in New York. It has red LEDs along the top and bottom, and it has yellow LEDs on each side. All of the LEDs are dual-intensity, but I have the yellow ones set to only use the bright setting for turn signals. I did not see anything like that in their current catalog, so I contacted SD to see if they might have a left-over unit hiding in a corner of the basement. "Mike" at SD responded and said he would have someone look. About a week later, he replied that they had found a quad frame and would be happy to populate it with the arrays that I wanted. After quickly giving him payment and shipping information, it only took a couple of days before it arrived.

    Experience with the frame on my Suzuki told me that the LEDs are a bit directional, and the angle of the license plate on the Spyder points them a bit high, so they are not as readily seen by following traffic. That meant that I needed to get creative and make an offset mount to make the plate more vertical. As usual, any solution creates more problems. This time, the plate and frame were blocking the light, so I got some LED lights that are also mounting bolts to illuminate the plate. Now I have a LOT of wires in the area of the license plate. To avoid drilling a hole, I simply removed the stock light and ran my wires through that hole.

    Short story long, all that is to explain that the rear signals were, indeed, the last incandescent bulbs.

    .
    HER ride:
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    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

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    Quote Originally Posted by DreamsSewn View Post
    PS Don't forget your sister what's whatever her sister-in-law might be getting.
    Yes, I know my sister wants whatever her sister-in-law is getting.

    I also know that my sister is willing to let me practice on her sister-in-law's bike.

    And yes, dear sister (she really is my sister ), you will be getting some of it when you come here. I will say right now, though, that some of the stuff I installed, I don't ever want to attempt again. At least not the way that I did it the first time.

    Here is a list, starting with stuff you saw at Maggie Valley:
    - LED headlights
    - LED fog lights
    - TricLED sequential signals on fenders
    - yellow LEDs in dash to monitor turn signals
    - LED backup lights
    - TricLED 4-piece tail/brake/turn kit for saddlebags and trunk


    Added in the last couple of weeks (all are LED):
    - frunk light that actually lights it up, activated by stock switch
    - light in the glove box, activated by tilt switch
    -.light strip in each saddlebag, activated by magnetic reed switch in doors
    - light strip in trunk, activated by tilt switch
    - tail/brake/turn light at top of trunk
    - tail/brake/turn lights on license frame
    - rear turn signals (hope to fix the hyperflash, which is the reason for this thread)
    - lights replacing reflectors on saddlebags
    There is also a Signal Dynamics brake modulator on the trunk light and license frame lights, but none of the others.

    See you some time in the Spring?

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    You need to measure the resistance indirectly, i.e., volts and amps across the bulb. An incandescent bulb filament resistance increases as it heats up.
    Finally! Time to get back to bulb specs.

    The stock bulb that came out measured (directly) 0.6Ω, hinting at about 2 amps and 25 watts. My amp meter showed 1.79 amps, my power supply puts out 13.8 volts (nicely-regulated), which calculates to 24.7 watts. Then I looked at the bulb. Engraved on the side of the base it says 12v, 21W.

    I tried the two resistors in series. Did the reset procedure, no change in results. Moved some wires around to put the two resistors in parallel, the bike did not like that at all. Started hyperflashing right away, instead of waiting for the third (or fourth) flash.

    I went back to one resistor on each side (properly wired in parallel) and put everything back together. It's ready for a test ride. It's warm (50°), but it's raining. Saturday will start out a bit chilly (17°), might get up to riding temp (35-ish°) by noon, so we'll see what happens.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  15. #15
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    Finally! Time to get back to bulb specs.

    The stock bulb that came out measured (directly) 0.6Ω, hinting at about 2 amps and 25 watts. My amp meter showed 1.79 amps, my power supply puts out 13.8 volts (nicely-regulated), which calculates to 24.7 watts. Then I looked at the bulb. Engraved on the side of the base it says 12v, 21W.

    I tried the two resistors in series. Did the reset procedure, no change in results. Moved some wires around to put the two resistors in parallel, the bike did not like that at all. Started hyperflashing right away, instead of waiting for the third (or fourth) flash.

    I went back to one resistor on each side (properly wired in parallel) and put everything back together. It's ready for a test ride. It's warm (50°), but it's raining. Saturday will start out a bit chilly (17°), might get up to riding temp (35-ish°) by noon, so we'll see what happens.

    .
    I wondered about the bulb wattage after I looked it up in the 2017 Operator's Guide, which lists it at 21 watts. Obviously my 2014 Guide is wrong. That's not the first time for BRP!

    Your experience with hyperflashing does make me wonder even more if current flow characteristic of the LED vs the incandescent contributes to it. I wonder what a capacitor in parallel with the LED would do. See what happens if you take the LED bulb out and have only the resistors in the circuit. And maybe try the resistors in parallel with the incandescent bulb. What we need to figure out is what the parameters are that control the flashing rate of the cluster. Is it current load, current flow rate, or what? I think, but I could be wrong, that most everyone who has dealt with this and corrected with resistors had the stock rear turn signal bulbs in place. You're the first one who I can remember has tried changing the rear bulbs to LED.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  16. #16
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    I wonder if the CANbus compatible feature is the problem. The light circuits on the Spyder are not in the CANbus system. The CANbus is used only for communications among all the modules. With a bike like the BMW CANbus signals actually control the bulbs. CANbus bulbs may not be compatible with the Spyder cluster.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    This just may be your answer. From this web page: https://shop.brosintl.com/blogs/news...lb-to-led-bulb

    Can I use CAN Bus LED bulbs in non-CAN Bus applications?

    CAN Bus LED bulbs SHOULD NOT be used in non-CAN Bus applications because in most cases they can cause other vehicle circuits to have problems. A CAN Bus LED bulb presents more resistance than the original bulb due to built-in resistors and may cause feedback into other circuits in the non-CAN Bus electrical system.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  18. #18
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    You're the first one who I can remember has tried changing the rear bulbs to LED.
    Looking back at post #2, Navydad said he installed LEDs.

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    See what happens if you take the LED bulb out and have only the resistors in the circuit. And maybe try the resistors in parallel with the incandescent bulb.
    Nope. Not gonna happen. To remove the LEDs requires blowing apart the back half of the bike to gain access to the bulbs. The resistors are installed at the front, behind the headlights. To gain access to them requires blowing apart the front half of the bike. All the panels are on, they are not coming off again until NECESSARY.

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    I wonder if the CANbus compatible feature is the problem. The light circuits on the Spyder are not in the CANbus system. The CANbus is used only for communications among all the modules. With a bike like the BMW CANbus signals actually control the bulbs. CANbus bulbs may not be compatible with the Spyder cluster.
    I am new to anything "CANbus", so I don't know exactly how things work with it, but I am not ignorant of things that carry and control the flow of electrons. It is my impression that, if a CANbus bulb has extra resistors to add to the load (which would simulate an incandescent load), it shouldn't matter if it's in a CANbus system or not. I could be wrong. Again.

    Weather should be a bit better in a couple of days, I'll take it for a ride and see what happens, as Navydad suggests.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    I am new to anything "CANbus", so I don't know exactly how things work with it, but I am not ignorant of things that carry and control the flow of electrons. It is my impression that, if a CANbus bulb has extra resistors to add to the load (which would simulate an incandescent load), it shouldn't matter if it's in a CANbus system or not. I could be wrong. Again.
    If the turn signals got their power from the battery through a flasher there would be no issue. But the turn signal bulbs are powered by the cluster which, of course, is an electronic module. Something in the cluster is being upset by the LEDs, be it the total current load or the waveform of the power during the on/off state changes. According to the site I link to above the CANbus bulbs should present nearly the same load to the cluster that the incandescent bulbs do. Since you said in the OP you got hyperflashing with just the bulbs that indicates that current draw is not the only factor involved.

    Besides added resistors I think there might be a microprocessor in the bulb. From what I find, bikes like BMW send power and signals over the same pair of wires to the light bulb to turn it off and on with the bulb responding with some sort of message. I don't know if it has any bearing or not, but an LED household bulb does not always work with a motion detector switch or light dimmer. This indicates two electronic devices in series don't always get along with each other if they aren't made to do so.

    Maybe you'll be fortunate like Navydad and the cluster eventually fixes itself. BRP and Bosch being what they are I wouldn't bet on the turn signal circuitry conforming to CANbus standards even though its communication with other modules does.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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    Well, I went for a ride today.

    Rode about 100 miles, using turn signals at every opportunity.

    Still hyperflashes.

    Gonna have to live with it until another bright idea comes along to try.

    .
    HER ride:
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    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

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    For my 2014 RT-S I replaced incandescent turn signal 7507 with SBL LED https://www.superbrightleds.com/more.../attributes/16 and incandescent backup 1156 with SBL LED https://www.superbrightleds.com/more.../attributes/16

    No fast flash or dashboard warnings.

    But 230 lumens for turn signal weren't enough so wired backup as turn signal for total of 540 lumens. Tested with no fast flash or dashboard warnings. The LED backup light will be below the license plate.
    2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
    2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike

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    Are you saying that you added a yellow 'bulb' to the backup light and now have TWO turn signal bulbs on each side?

    Sounds like it might work for some, but I don't have room for any more lights on the back to relocate the reverse light.

    Also not sure that I would want to downgrade to 230 (or 540) lumens. The ones I have now are 2800.

    I got an idea from another post recently. I have been going through the procedure on Lamonster's site that has you turn the key ON, then hold the 4-way button, etc. That almost seems to work, but someone suggested doing while the engine was running, not just with the key ON. When I have a day that's warm enough to get the Spyder outside, I will try that.

    .
    HER ride:
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    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

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    Steve -- that is correct, I have two LED "turn signal" bulbs. I made a jumper between the 5-pin chassis connector and the 5-pin light module connector. Turn signal power from the chassis feeds both the 7507 turn signal bulb and the 1156 backup bulb in the light module. The LH jumper also feeds the backup light down by the license plate. I'll post pictures after I install the backup light. When I decide on a CHMSL I'll redo the RH jumper to feed tail and brake power to it. Takes me about an hour to build a jumper -- I'm old and slow.

    I consolidated all the information I could find on correcting flash rate but haven't needed it yet.

    Recalibrate Turn Signal Flash Rate

    1. Turn the engine ON.
    2. Press and hold the Hazard button until the Dashboard lights flash once (20-30 seconds).
    3. Release the Hazard button.
    4. Turn on LH turn signal.
    5. Let it blink once and turn the engine OFF.
    6. Turn the engine ON.
    7. Press and hold the Hazard button until the Dashboard lights flash once (20-30 seconds).
    8. Release the Hazard button.
    9. Turn on RH turn signal.
    10. Let it blink once and turn the engine OFF.

    Repeat 1-10 completely if either LH or RH flash rate is incorrect.

    You have 2800 lumen rear turn signals? Woohoo that's like a headlight!

    PS probably my favorite motorcycle was a 1978 GS750. Switched to a GS1100 when I moved to Descanso (dirt road). Switched to a BMW K100 to slow down. Switched to Ford Tauri when the CHP decided I didn't slow down enough.
    2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
    2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike

  25. #25
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    That is pretty much the same procedure that Lamonster has, except that #1 just says to turn the KEY on. I am going to try it soon with the ENGINE running to see if it makes a difference.

    Yes, 2800 Lumens. When I opened the little box and applied some power to test them, I was NOT ready. I expected some brightness, but these take it to another level. I was then a bit concerned that they might be TOO bright, but I had my wife head down the driveway and turn on the signals. I think they look just fine.

    The part that bothers me about them is that they are supposed to be "CAN BUS error-free", meaning that they will approximate the load of the stock bulb so CAN BUS will not be bothered. As I understand, our signals are not on the CAN BUS, but the load should still be about the same.

    If the reprogramming with the engine running does not work, I have one last thing to try before accepting the hyperflash. I don't know why it would make any difference, but the load resistors are mounted up front, inside the fairing near the mirrors. Maybe they need to be mounted at the rear, near the LEDs?

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

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