Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 49
  1. #1
    Active Member DragonSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    310
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Purge Valve - Permanent Fix

    If we plug the hose and problem is solved. What is the permanent fix for this issue? My dealer is not going to know what to do so going to them is of no use.

  2. #2
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Here's your options as I see it.

    Now that you know this fixed the problem you can-

    A- Let the dealer look at it and determine if it's a stuck valve or a software problem. If it's a stuck valve they can replace it. If the valve is fine then you'll need the new software update that should be out in a week or so.

    B- Do like many of us have done and that is remove the evap can and route the vent from the tank to another location and leave the purge valve plugged.

    At one time the only State that had a evap can or pair valves was CA. This is a epa thing and will not effect how the Spyder runs. I would recomed option A first.

  3. #3
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Mississauga Ontario Canada Alamo Texas jan to may
    Posts
    526
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thanks Lamont

  4. #4
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Lake Mary, FL
    Posts
    360
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I did the isolate the cannister trick yesterday. Left the purge valve connected but plugged the hose leaving the purge valve. Bike runs like a scalded cat, no hesitation or surging and seems to be running somewhat cooler. In any event I am a very Happy Spyder Owner. I am going to leave it like it is. The less I have my bike at the tender mercies of the dealer, the better I like it.

    I have about 3 mos.left on my warranty, so I wil be on my own before long.

    PE# 600

    Thanks to Lamonster and all the others for scoping out the problem and coming up with the fix!

  5. #5
    Active Member Tripod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Branson, MO
    Posts
    172
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    Here's your options as I see it.

    Now that you know this fixed the problem you can-

    A- Let the dealer look at it and determine if it's a stuck valve or a software problem. If it's a stuck valve they can replace it. If the valve is fine then you'll need the new software update that should be out in a week or so.

    B- Do like many of us have done and that is remove the evap can and route the vent from the tank to another location and leave the purge valve plugged.

    At one time the only State that had a evap can or pair valves was CA. This is a epa thing and will not effect how the Spyder runs. I would recomed option A first.
    Hey Lamont,

    Greetings from the left coast.

    If you're up for it. How about a How To - Step by Step of item B for us less adept.

    Tripod

  6. #6
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chiang Mai, Thailand
    Posts
    905
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Today was the first I had a chance to ride my Spyder since I did the software update, been reading about the missing and hesitation and yes it has happen to me. After about a 50 mile ride all highway I hit traffic and it was stop and go for the next 10 miles and never got out of 2nd and it was missing so much I thought it was going to stall (never had this problem till software). I have been reading the by pass valve fix but is it not just a mask for the problem, Lamonster you say a software fix is on the way and if so I guess I will wait for it.

  7. #7
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Spooner, Wis.
    Posts
    558
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nudle View Post
    Thanks Lamont

    Ditto

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,519
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by burg650 View Post
    Today was the first I had a chance to ride my Spyder since I did the software update, been reading about the missing and hesitation and yes it has happen to me. After about a 50 mile ride all highway I hit traffic and it was stop and go for the next 10 miles and never got out of 2nd and it was missing so much I thought it was going to stall (never had this problem till software). I have been reading the by pass valve fix but is it not just a mask for the problem, Lamonster you say a software fix is on the way and if so I guess I will wait for it.
    No, eliminating the Purge Valve eliminates the problem. It is not a patch or bandaid. It is a permanante fix and you don't have to wait and hope for a new update that may or may not do the trick.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  9. #9
    Active Member Tripod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Branson, MO
    Posts
    172
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    No, eliminating the Purge Valve eliminates the problem. It is not a patch or bandaid. It is a permanante fix and you don't have to wait and hope for a new update that may or may not do the trick.
    I need some help here. I've read that you shouldn't disconnect the purge valve (electrics), that will make it throw off error message. You say it should be "eliminated". Some eliminate the canister and some run hoses down and back. Is there anyone who can give an easy instructional? I have an SE5 if that matter. Any input would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Tripod

  10. #10
    Registered Users Dragonrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Canby, OR
    Posts
    3,073
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    The canisterectomy plugs the line, but the valve is still there and "working".

  11. #11
    Active Member Tripod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Branson, MO
    Posts
    172
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonrider View Post
    The canisterectomy plugs the line, but the valve is still there and "working".
    See, here lies the problem. If there is a line of some sort going into the purge valve, that's one thing. Then there is a line that some suggest you put a bolt into to block it. Some talk of running lines to the rear and bottom. When you say the "canisterectomy plugs the line"...that doesn't explain the procedure to me. I appreciate your input...perhaps you think I know more that I really do. What I need is an explanation similar to the ones found in the Step by Step section of the forum. I'm usually savvy about this stuff, I guess I'm having trouble with the vernacular.

    Thanks again,

    Tripod

  12. #12
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huC0pXtPcug"]YouTube- Broadcast Yourself.[/nomedia]

  13. #13
    Active Member spyderwoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    morganton,nc
    Posts
    156
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default now what!

    crap! pinched off the valve with clamp. she ran like a dream in the morning, on the way home she started the same junk again. we put a manual switch on the fan so she never got over 4 bars either. it started backfiring, surging, etc....so now what? i'm probably the first the "fix" didn't work for. i even asked my hubby if he clamped off the right valve- he wasn't too happy about that- he had- anyway does it take time to work or should it be right away?

  14. #14
    Active Member Cliff-Co.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    colorado
    Posts
    85
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    mine also runs like crap, since re-call, purge valve, plugged, or un-plugged no difference, my dealer already done 16, before mine ??? & no problems, just mine, ??? guess it's called the luck of the draw !!!

  15. #15
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Posts
    5,443
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tripod View Post
    See, here lies the problem. If there is a line of some sort going into the purge valve, that's one thing. Then there is a line that some suggest you put a bolt into to block it. Some talk of running lines to the rear and bottom. When you say the "canisterectomy plugs the line"...that doesn't explain the procedure to me. I appreciate your input...perhaps you think I know more that I really do. What I need is an explanation similar to the ones found in the Step by Step section of the forum. I'm usually savvy about this stuff, I guess I'm having trouble with the vernacular.

    Thanks again,

    Tripod
    There are two separate hoses they are talking about. One comes from the fuel tank that goes to the canister. That hose is the one that people are extending to the rear of the Spyder so that any raw gas or fumes that are coming out of the gas tank now are vented to atmosphere at the rear of the Spyder where you won't smell it. The second hose goes from the canister to the purge valve and continues on to the Rotax. That hose is the one that is supposed to get plugged, leaving the purge valve connected. A third hose on the canister is a short hose that vents the canister to atmosphere and that is eliminated when you remove your canister. The first two lines you talk about in your post (in bold text) are the same line.
    Last edited by bjt; 08-31-2009 at 09:52 AM.
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

  16. #16
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spyderwoman View Post
    crap! pinched off the valve with clamp. she ran like a dream in the morning, on the way home she started the same junk again. we put a manual switch on the fan so she never got over 4 bars either. it started backfiring, surging, etc....so now what? i'm probably the first the "fix" didn't work for. i even asked my hubby if he clamped off the right valve- he wasn't too happy about that- he had- anyway does it take time to work or should it be right away?
    My guess is the clamp is leaking, I would use a bolt.

  17. #17
    Registered Users Some Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    Posts
    1,655
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I did this mod to my Spyder yesterday and rode a couple hundred miles...BIG IMPROVEMENT!

    Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
    Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...

  18. #18
    Active Member Tripod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Branson, MO
    Posts
    172
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bjt View Post
    There are two separate hoses they are talking about. One comes from the fuel tank that goes to the canister. That hose is the one that people are extending to the rear of the Spyder so that any raw gas or fumes that are coming out of the gas tank now are vented to atmosphere at the rear of the Spyder where you won't smell it. The second hose goes from the canister to the purge valve and continues on to the Rotax. That hose is the one that is supposed to get plugged, leaving the purge valve connected. A third hose on the canister is a short hose that vents the canister to atmosphere and that is eliminated when you remove your canister. The first two lines you talk about in your post (in bold text) are the same line.
    BJT,

    Thank you...it makes sense to me now. One last question. Could one do the alterations and leave the canister in place so it could be returned to the stock configuration before returning to the stealership for recalls, updates, etc. ??

    Tripod

  19. #19
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Mississauga Ontario Canada Alamo Texas jan to may
    Posts
    526
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Yes

  20. #20
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Posts
    5,443
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tripod View Post
    BJT,

    Thank you...it makes sense to me now. One last question. Could one do the alterations and leave the canister in place so it could be returned to the stock configuration before returning to the stealership for recalls, updates, etc. ??

    Tripod
    Quote Originally Posted by nudle View Post
    Yes
    What he said....

    Yes the canister can stay in place.
    Former Happy Spyder Owner
    Just decided it was time to move onto other things.

  21. #21
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    connecticut
    Posts
    236
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default It works

    All I did was put a bolt in the canister hose and the more I drove the better it ran. Now it runs awsome. no more sputter/surge or hesitation. I can take off with the bike cold just after starting it. It truly worked. Why would I want to do another update? When it runs better than ever. Thanks to everyone for the great info. Remember it is the hose that runs vertical on the right side. Not the one that run horizontal under the seat.

  22. #22
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    los gatos california
    Posts
    77
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default filter in vent line

    strongly recommend to use an inline fuel filter at the end of vent line, remember that air must enter line as gas level drops in tank or as temperature drops and fuel contracts. spiders and other insects love empty pipes and may nest plugging the vent. fuel pumps are strong enough to collapse tank...no warranty...

  23. #23
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Spooner, Wis.
    Posts
    558
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sylblk View Post
    strongly recommend to use an inline fuel filter at the end of vent line, remember that air must enter line as gas level drops in tank or as temperature drops and fuel contracts. spiders and other insects love empty pipes and may nest plugging the vent. fuel pumps are strong enough to collapse tank...no warranty...
    Good point!

  24. #24
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Wayne, NJ
    Posts
    243
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    You can check the purge valve operation yourself. Just disconnect the plug and put 12volts dc (from the battery or any other 12v dc source) on the leads of the valve itself (one positive and one negative) when you apply the voltage you were here the valve closing and remove the voltage you will here it open as its spring loaded. If you don't hear that click of the valve opening and closing you prob have a bad valve. All a purge valve is, is a solenoid with a plunger attched to it.

  25. #25
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lightman02 View Post
    You can check the purge valve operation yourself. Just disconnect the plug and put 12volts dc (from the battery or any other 12v dc source) on the leads of the valve itself (one positive and one negative) when you apply the voltage you were here the valve closing and remove the voltage you will here it open as its spring loaded. If you don't hear that click of the valve opening and closing you prob have a bad valve. All a purge valve is, is a solenoid with a plunger attched to it.
    This only tests the solenoid coil activation. A vacuum test is also necessary. The purge valve should not leak down with vacuum on the discharge side, until it is activated. Then the vacuum should be released. Failure to do either means a bad purge valve.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •