I've been a newbie since awhile now, posted some bits and bobs.
I read alot on this forum, and as I am mechanicly well enclined, I see same questions over and over again, now whilst surfing the web, I stumbled upon this.
This is by far the easiest safest way I've seen sofar to work with aftermarket lights/ heated grips/ usb and so on, to work with.
safe as in, it powers off after shutdown engine, so no powerdrain
safe as in, fused so no problem with overheating due to a power surge
easy as in, install to battery, and connect with no soldering/ crimping whatsoever.
I HAVE NO affiliation with this firm at :all, just wanted to share a good product
the funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it........
Spyder F3s 2019 All Black ( Named it: Brutus)
Carbon Items added, just for looks
Upgraded Shocks Trac-Tive, Rear hi/lo and rebound adjustable, with Hydraulic Pre-Load adjuster
fronts hi/lo and rebound adjustable, custom made by the Trac-Tive Guru's
Swaybar (Ron's)
Tyres Front Michelin Cross Climate+ 175/60-15
Rear, for 2022 still a Kenda, next Yokohama Advan Fleva 205/55R15
Exhaust Bone stock, with a RLS Cat- Delete
Custom ECU-Mapping, rewritten/adapted to my Ridingstyle
Pedalbox, Awesome Upgrade...
I just ordered one from a Canadian bike shop. $78 with shipping. There were 2 US bike shops listed on the HealTech website but neither showed this product available. Sounds like an easy product to use.
I wonder what the max protected output is. It does mention it shuts down more than, I think 16 amps. So what if there is
several outputs pulling over a total of 20 amps? There's only one wire to each set of connections, so how could it tell if one
output is pulling 10 amps, and another on the same connection is pulling 10 amps, and another is pulling 15 amps? That would
total up to 35 amps all on the same wire feed from the device. Would it shut off since it's over 16 amps?
I wish I knew of this wonderful device before I installed a fuse block. It's smaller and tidier than the block. However, I have fed thge block through a relay so it is energized only with the ignition on.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
I wish I knew of this wonderful device before I installed a fuse block. It's smaller and tidier than the block. However, I have fed thge block through a relay so it is energized only with the ignition on.
I also use a Blue Sea fuse box, but all the feed coming out of the fuse box are different wires. That device uses one wire to feed multiple
devices. Not so sure I like that. With one feed, if one device goes down, all would go down. JMO anyway.
I use the Fuzeblocks FZ-1 as it has individual circuits. I like the Thunderbox's concept of auto start and shutdown, but don't like the idea of multiple loads on a single lead. That can be a recipe for problems.
Me thinks, if you are not overloading the thunderbox, what are you going to run of the thing, a washingmachine and a dryer?? ghegheghe 16amp per lead, is more than sufficient.
Me thinks, the benefits of being small, and simple to use, are for many spyderlovers, the way to go, I am sure there are other ways, to get the same result, but for people who are a little afraid of diy/ or aren't mechanicly inclined, this is a way to go.
It's safe, cause it has it's own protection build in, if it overloads, it just shuts down, then you have to disconnect the +wire from the battery, and check where the overload is coming from.
but imho, a gps/telephone, and heated seats/grips, do not come to 16 amps, even with a bunch of lighting (led), it should be quite enough to play with.
excuse me, for my bad english, as I am from the netherlands, and english isn't my native language, btw I am loving this forum, reading it every day, and learnig a lot, got my spyder in june this year, sofar I have driven 7500 km's on the spyder, and it's as you all say, MILES OF SMILES...
the funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it........
Spyder F3s 2019 All Black ( Named it: Brutus)
Carbon Items added, just for looks
Upgraded Shocks Trac-Tive, Rear hi/lo and rebound adjustable, with Hydraulic Pre-Load adjuster
fronts hi/lo and rebound adjustable, custom made by the Trac-Tive Guru's
Swaybar (Ron's)
Tyres Front Michelin Cross Climate+ 175/60-15
Rear, for 2022 still a Kenda, next Yokohama Advan Fleva 205/55R15
Exhaust Bone stock, with a RLS Cat- Delete
Custom ECU-Mapping, rewritten/adapted to my Ridingstyle
Pedalbox, Awesome Upgrade...
Great product for those of us electrically challenged!!
Al in Kazoo
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.