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RT rescued from graveyard
I'll be using this thread as placeholder for my pics and progress in repairing my spyder which i bought after previous owner crashed and bent frame.
Maybe this will be usefull to someone.
This is before I started my work.
Bez tytułu.jpg
There is no front, damaged rear, multiple parts missing, no sensors, bent frame, missing rods, damaged coolers. etc.
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Upper a-arms were bought from newer model but unfortunately length was not the same. The ones on older RT are longer.
Some cutting, grinding and welding and it's done.
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I salute you for taking on a challenge like this but honestly this one might be destined for the scrap heap/parts bin. By the time you bolt the few remaining pieces on a new frame and purchase/install new parts (the tupperware isn't cheap), you probably could have bought a really nice used (but complete) unit.
Not trying to deter you and maybe RTs are scarce in Poland so this is the only way to go but that really does look like a lot of expensive work.
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Originally Posted by MONK
I salute you for taking on a challenge like this but honestly this one might be destined for the scrap heap/parts bin. By the time you bolt the few remaining pieces on a new frame and purchase/install new parts (the tupperware isn't cheap), you probably could have bought a really nice used (but complete) unit.
Not trying to deter you and maybe RTs are scarce in Poland so this is the only way to go but that really does look like a lot of expensive work.
I've bought this one for 2,5k USD. My goal was to keep within 5k USD but ABS unit did not allow that.
To be honest when I bought this spyder I didn't know how many things could fail because of bad engineering. Normally I don't use cars/bikes with too much electronics. I have older Hilux, Honda from 93 and old bikes like KLX 650 from 94. They all run great. If something happens you can fix them with simple tools. This is not the case with spyder and this is bad judgement from my side. But, I still want to learn how things are done and want to be first to fix problems which are giving people headache.
Also, I hate when things (expensive and cheap) are thrown to garbage.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by megagame
I'm not sure if steering sensor is a limiter as well. Before I will actually start using and testing spyder on the road, I will not know how it behaves and why. Right now I have 100 meters on in - not too much. It is not registered also so no help with tricking ecu at least before february 21.
As I understand it the steering angle sensor is one of the inputs to determine how much torque is applied by the DPS. It's probably one of the inputs into the VSS to automatically limit speed and braking in a sharp turn.
To use BUSMASTER is anything else needed other than the s/w loaded on the computer? Of course BUDS is needed.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Last edited by megagame; 05-05-2023 at 09:06 AM.
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I've finished bleeding brakes. I tried twice because first time, even with buds and vacuum it wasn't successful. I've forgot to unbolt front brake calipers and put them so that bleeder is above brake lines. With that approach buds was not needed for removing air from lines.
I've checked BLS and pressure sensor - all seems ok. Unfortunatel after few meters of ride again there is error C0044 which indicates problem with ABS pressure sensor or brake light switch. I've started engine again and no problem. On Buds error has occured but nothing else. BLS working, pressure ok. No other errors regarding communication issues or anything else.
I have no idea what is going on. Maybe there is a problem because BLS is coming when pressure is too low, maybe brake light should come out above ex. 500kPa, or it is other way around. Right now my BLS activates when 200kPa is already applied to brakes.
Actually, when I think about it, BLS should come out before any pressure reading, otherwise it doesn't make sense. There should be indication that braking is applied before actual braking happens. Maybe this is a problem.
Does anyone could check their kPa reading when brake light is activated?
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Customer Support
Originally Posted by megagame
I've bought this one for 2,5k USD. My goal was to keep within 5k USD but ABS unit did not allow that.
To be honest when I bought this spyder I didn't know how many things could fail because of bad engineering. Normally I don't use cars/bikes with too much electronics. I have older Hilux, Honda from 93 and old bikes like KLX 650 from 94. They all run great. If something happens you can fix them with simple tools. This is not the case with spyder and this is bad judgement from my side. But, I still want to learn how things are done and want to be first to fix problems which are giving people headache.
Also, I hate when things (expensive and cheap) are thrown to garbage.
Great project, thank you for your contribution to the community.
I understand almost none of it but I'm reading with fascination anyway.
Last edited by LeftCoast; 12-14-2020 at 01:49 PM.
2015 Pearl White RTL
Baja Ron Sway Bar
Russell Day Long Seat
Strobe Brake Light
Mirror Mount Turn Signal Indicator
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Active Member
Originally Posted by megagame
I've bought this one for 2,5k USD. My goal was to keep within 5k USD but ABS unit did not allow that.
To be honest when I bought this spyder I didn't know how many things could fail because of bad engineering. Normally I don't use cars/bikes with too much electronics. I have older Hilux, Honda from 93 and old bikes like KLX 650 from 94. They all run great. If something happens you can fix them with simple tools. This is not the case with spyder and this is bad judgement from my side. But, I still want to learn how things are done and want to be first to fix problems which are giving people headache.
Also, I hate when things (expensive and cheap) are thrown to garbage.
Looks great on you!!!! Well done!
Who says that you have to have a reason besides just wanting to do it. You will learn a lot and from a completely different viewpoint than 99.9 % of the rest of us.
Keep up the great work!
Tim
Current - 2010 Spyder RTS
1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
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Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.
The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?
Please check out my pics!!
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At this point I starged the engine and there are problems with DPS and ABS. Basically BUDS is reporting both of them are damaged.
I've tried to fix DPS but it is glued probably with resin to it's housing. I will try to mimic DPS using CAN bus and I will remove electric motor to remove any resistance which is caused by gears and motor inside DPS.
Torque sensor is non replecable. It's produced by Megatech in Canada. I could not find any part numbers found inside DPS.
For now work is in progress so we will see how it goes with DPS.
IMG_20201129_154712.jpg
One error is because of no seat. Connector was damaged so I've had to replace it. It is DEUTCHE DT 3 pin connector.
No harness for cargo as well and no radio so new harness will be produced by me. There are more cables in CIC connectors than on schematics, probably because same harness is used for older models as well to have same production line for many models.
Brake master cylinder was used from LAGUNA III 07-15r. BOSCH 0204Y21951 0204051440. It fits but reservoid needs to be removed and hose fittings needs to be installed in place of laguna reservoir. Also, bolts to hold brake lines are M10 x 1 in spyder and new master cylinder is M12 x 1 so two ends of brake line were drilled from 10mm to 12mm. No leaks and still plenty of space for washers and it works great.
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Very Active Member
Cool project. Good luck and keep us gearheads/petrolheads posted.
2020 RTL SE6
Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6
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Active Member
Very ambitious. But not seeing all the photos in the thread.
2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)
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Originally Posted by Eviltwin
Very ambitious. But not seeing all the photos in the thread.
I've moved photos to google. Don't know why but forum server probably rejected them. They were there at the beginning but disappeared. Now they are back.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by megagame
I've moved photos to google. Don't know why but forum server probably rejected them. They were there at the beginning but disappeared. Now they are back.
i save everything on a stick.... and i always have them.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ARtraveler
Very ambitious project. Will eagerly look forward to your reports.
and more pics! it can be done! always wonder where the dead spyders go here in the US I seldom see used parts like from wreck for sale. Once in awhile there'll be whole bikes people are parting out but they usually seemed really proud of the parts.
2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
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You do bring up a good point. In the old days creating a "street rod" was a fun and creative thing. You are showing it is still do-able, but there are more challenges with computer sensors and controls.
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Originally Posted by PapaHotel
You do bring up a good point. In the old days creating a "street rod" was a fun and creative thing. You are showing it is still do-able, but there are more challenges with computer sensors and controls.
I've decided to buy and fix this spyder when I was looking for something to toy with. I didn't know there are machines like that before. I wasn't expecting so many problems at the beginning, at the same time I didn't know there are so many electronic devices added for safer ride. It's not a huge problem to bypass them but it is confusing and I don't always know what to do.
It's like receiving expensive gift which is broken and you start to spend lot of time to fix it .
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Very Active Member
You are certainly resourceful, Acquiring parts from other vehicles and making them work on the Spyder. This project will keep you out of the pool hall for a long time.
Where in Poland? I am familiar with your country. I had family who had a one way train ride to Auschwitz.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Originally Posted by RICZ
You are certainly resourceful, Acquiring parts from other vehicles and making them work on the Spyder. This project will keep you out of the pool hall for a long time.
Where in Poland? I am familiar with your country. I had family who had a one way train ride to Auschwitz.
It takes some time to find almost same parts and customize them to work with spider but it is fun when you realize you've paid 8$ for brake master cylinder (perfect condition) because it is for citroen and it is working great.
I'm from Kalisz but staying in Poznan for couple of years now. I have friends now far from Auschwitz as well.
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Very Active Member
As a suggestion towards simplification, and seeing the amount of effort you are expending. Have you considered, and you seem capable, to remove the Spyders oem chassis computer and engine computer setup entirely, and remove the applicable input transducers? Then find an engine computer from an Aprillia for engine management. Ridden smartly, you might only wish to incorporate an abs control system.
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