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Caster/camber angle
I've modified my suspension to allow camber/caster change.
To do that I used a lathe, stainless bolts and nuts and drill bits.
Bolts used to hold A-arm are M10 metric. Steel sleeve in a-arm has OD of around 14,6mm and 10mm ID.
I've redrilled holes in plates on frame which are holding bushings and a-arm. They are now 13mm instead of 10mm. On lathe I've used big bolt M14 and drilled 8mm hole through top of the bolt with 2,5mm offset from center. I've also cut 2mm wide groove to have 13mm dimension at beginning of top part of this bolt. This 13mm dimension will later go inside places on frame.
I've made new sleeves with 14,7mm OD and 8mm ID. Bolts holding A-Arms are strong M8 12,9 (metric). So now I have 8mm bold which could be moved within round area of 13mm diameter.
Now I can move a-arm +/-5mm which gives plenty of room to change both caster and camber. Also, holes in frame were drilled with special drill to allow drilling in inside part of plates in frame. This is because top a-arms are bolted to part which holds the wheel, and you could use spacers to have negative camber. In my case bottom a-arm could be +2,5mm from center of frame and top -4,5mm which is total of 7mm of "travel".
I've bought spyder damaged in accident and repaired averything I could with cheap parts from other cars and used solutions well known in "industry" like case above. My previous project was using BMW FS650 and using whole suspension from KTM 640 to have ultimate enduro. Now me and my wife are a little bit heavier so spyder could be potential touring machine for us but it needs to be: 1. cheap, 2. configurable, 3. user friendly (no limp mode in ANY case). Let's see how it goes.
If somebody have some requests regarding some measurements I can do that .
BTW, I've used master cylinder from citroen and modifed brake reservoir to work with original one from can am.
Bez tytułu.jpg
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Erm, I have to ask... Why?
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Very Active Member
pics please or it didn't happen lol...
2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
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Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
Erm, I have to ask... Why?
I'am repairing spyder with bent frame https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard and I'm sure I won't be able to fix it perfectly. That gives me some space for error.
Also, I believe all cars have this setub because of a reason. I've measured all maunts for a-arms and I think there are some differences for each hole in a-arms mounts. In my case holes don't have same distance from center of frame which might cause differences in caster/camber. I'm sure having adjustable caster/camber will allow to have better traction.
"Why?". Why not?
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Originally Posted by AbNormy
pics please or it didn't happen lol...
Will do, tomorrow. I will be changing bolts from stainless to steel 12.9 since these are stronger. Grease will take care of rust issue.
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Very Active Member
Not many Americans think this way anymore, in our throw it away and get a new one society!
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
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