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  1. #1
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    Default 2019 vs 2020 RT handlebar position

    I took my ST-S to the dealer today for the end of year service. While there, I sat on an 2019 RT and a 2020 RT. I notice that the 2020 has more space for rider and rider/passenger (my wife boarded with me). However, I like the feel of the handlebars on the 2019 more. Those bars are positioned up and slightly back, similar to my STS. The 2020 bars seems to be more upright and lower. I know every person will fit a machine at least a tad bit differently, but I wondering if others noticed this difference as well and what they think.
    Current Rides:
    2015 Spyder ST-S SM5
    2016 Honda Gold Wing ABS/Navi
    2022 Royal Enfield Classic 350
    2021 Royal Enfield Himalayan

  2. #2
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    I had a 2018 RT and currently ride a 2021 RT. The big difference between the current and previous generation RT bars is modularity. With the previous gen RT, you had a grand total of (2) different bars. Other than the stock bars, you could only get the expensive TriAxis bars. Unless you were willing and capable of basically removing the entire front end of your RT, you then had to pay $500-$700 labor to swap bars. If you later decided what you "really" wanted were the stock bars, you'd have to pony up another $500-$700 to swap them back.

    The 2020+ RTs use the F3 bars. ANY of the F3 bars. And, it takes all of about 10 minutes to swap them out. Total of (8) bolts. A kindergartener could do it. Don't like option A, try option B. Don't like those, try option C. Don't like any of the (5) options available (6 if you count the drag bars which will NOT fit an RT without tall risers), you can buy Helibars. Again, about 10 minutes to swap out. Different heights, different grip angles, too. You can pull them closer to you or push them farther away to fine tune the bars. You don't have to disassemble anything to swap the bars, either.

    With all that said, I think both the current and previous gen bars put the grips in a similar position in relation to the rider. I liked the current gen bars a little better but at full lock, both would dig into my thighs. (FWIW, I ended up with Helibars. Not cheap but they're multi adjustable works really well.)

    HAGO!

  3. #3
    Active Member Doug44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MONK View Post
    I had a 2018 RT and currently ride a 2021 RT. The big difference between the current and previous generation RT bars is modularity. With the previous gen RT, you had a grand total of (2) different bars. Other than the stock bars, you could only get the expensive TriAxis bars. Unless you were willing and capable of basically removing the entire front end of your RT, you then had to pay $500-$700 labor to swap bars. If you later decided what you "really" wanted were the stock bars, you'd have to pony up another $500-$700 to swap them back.

    The 2020+ RTs use the F3 bars. ANY of the F3 bars. And, it takes all of about 10 minutes to swap them out. Total of (8) bolts. A kindergartener could do it. Don't like option A, try option B. Don't like those, try option C. Don't like any of the (5) options available (6 if you count the drag bars which will NOT fit an RT without tall risers), you can buy Helibars. Again, about 10 minutes to swap out. Different heights, different grip angles, too. You can pull them closer to you or push them farther away to fine tune the bars. You don't have to disassemble anything to swap the bars, either.

    With all that said, I think both the current and previous gen bars put the grips in a similar position in relation to the rider. I liked the current gen bars a little better but at full lock, both would dig into my thighs. (FWIW, I ended up with Helibars. Not cheap but they're multi adjustable works really well.)

    HAGO!
    Well I did my bars on my 2020 RTL and yes it wasn't all that difficult but I beg to differ about 10 minutes and a kindergartner. It took me longer than that to get into the bundle on wire coiled up to have enough to complete the job. Also it would be easy to scratch the center area etc. I couldn't recommend a person doing this there self unless they are a bit handy and take your time. Maybe after doing one or two of these it can be completed in 10 minutes YMMV. The back of my old hands took a few days to heal back up after removing the speaker grill and going up and under that sharp plastic to retrieve the extra bundle of wires for the controls
    Doug 2020 RTL F3 Short reach bars -factory backrest
    K9CRT Ham Radio
    Sold 5/27/2021 Spyder just wasn’t for me. Went back to Goldwing

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug44 View Post
    Well I did my bars on my 2020 RTL and yes it wasn't all that difficult but I beg to differ about 10 minutes and a kindergartner. It took me longer than that to get into the bundle on wire coiled up to have enough to complete the job. Also it would be easy to scratch the center area etc. I couldn't recommend a person doing this there self unless they are a bit handy and take your time. Maybe after doing one or two of these it can be completed in 10 minutes YMMV. The back of my old hands took a few days to heal back up after removing the speaker grill and going up and under that sharp plastic to retrieve the extra bundle of wires for the controls
    Not sure why you removed the dash panel, Doug. I was able to access the zip ties holding the excessive handlebar wiring by removing the (2) (1 each side) access panels. All of the bars other than the short reach bars should have had enough wiring without having to clip those zip ties. If you cover the dash, you can avoid scratches (assuming that's what you're referring to when you said "center area"). Remove the 2 bolts on each cuff by the grips and let them hang down then remove the (4) bolts holding the center plate that secures the bars. The bars are light so you can do this without help.

    I've had (4) different bars on my bike so it takes me less time to do this than a 1st timer, granted, but I still think it can be done in about 10 minutes assuming you don't have to clip the zip ties.

  5. #5
    Active Member ButterSmooth's Avatar
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    with Doug. Mine had multiple cable ties and cutting them with no wire damage wasn't easy. Even then the wires barely reached the reduced reach bars. That first time took me about 40 minutes, working carefully. I ended up with F3 bars which are great, and the wire length wasn't an issue. Seems to me that the F3 bars should be stock and the now 'standard' bars should be extended reach bars. But that's just a short guy whining...
    Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
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