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OK, we're comparing apples to oranges here.
YOU are talking about StarTron, I'M talking about Sta-Bil.
Two different products for the same application, but two products, nonetheless.
.
HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Very Active Member
don't mean to add anymore confusion around what to use in the tank. Both Stabil and Startron are good products. I myself prefer the Startron because if you read the reviews it has a little bit better characteristic for storage and it is the recommended fuel stabilizer for almost all marine outboard engines. In addition to the fuel additive I also stick an ounce of Seafoam in the tank and slosh it around then let it run for a good 30 minutes. The Seafoam is probably the best thing for injectors and carbs to clean them and get any gunk off of them so they are clean for storage.
This is just my 2 cents, you do what you feel comfortable doing with your bike, but like everyone else said DO NOT start it periodically over winter.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Steve W.
OK, we're comparing apples to oranges here.
YOU are talking about StarTron, I'M talking about Sta-Bil.
Two different products for the same application, but two products, nonetheless.
.
I said that in my post ..... anywho .. Sta-Bil also has a " Marine formula " which does what my Star-Tron will do concerning Ethanol .... good price at Walmart ...... Mike
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My point was that you were poo-pooing my statement about 2-3 ounces would treat the tank and you were suggesting that I re-read the instructions on the bottle. I did. They were correct. I am guessing that your suggestion was based on the product that YOU are using, which is obviously a different product.
I'm out.
.
HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Very Active Member
The only thing doubling up's going to do is make it smoke more when you get it out in the spring, for the first tank full. No real harm as far as I can see! Not using it at all with this crap gas we have, that's a crap shoot that I will not play!! Back in the day you would just shut the fuel valve and run the carbs dry, open the valve in the spring and go for it!!! Miss the old days some times!!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Steve W.
My point was that you were poo-pooing my statement about 2-3 ounces would treat the tank and you were suggesting that I re-read the instructions on the bottle. I did. They were correct. I am guessing that your suggestion was based on the product that YOU are using, which is obviously a different product.
I'm out.
.
I'M SORRY I EVER SAID ANYTHING. I WON'T DO IT AGAIN. MERRY CHRISTMAS .....Mike
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Very Active Member
Some times, thick skin is required. When you post, you leave yourself open to criticism from many sides. When you start taking it personal, then the fun begins.
If one does not like a reply, ignore it. At least some will agree/disagree anyway.
Battery tenders? Gas stabilizer? Brands? Ounces? Not worth getting entangled by them. Say your opinion, let others post with theirs. The right answer can be many things.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Very Active Member
Oh My Gosh! Are we in the process of making "fuel stabilizer" toxic words just because different ones require a different amount in the tank?
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by ARtraveler
Some times, thick skin is required. When you post, you leave yourself open to criticism from many sides. When you start taking it personal, then the fun begins.
If one does not like a reply, ignore it. At least some will agree/disagree anyway.
Battery tenders? Gas stabilizer? Brands? Ounces? Not worth getting entangled by them. Say your opinion, let others post with theirs. The right answer can be many things.
A great deal of wisdom.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Very Active Member
I'll be the contrarian here.
I live a little further south, so I've managed to take the Spyder out during the winter on many occassions.
There have, however, been about three different years where I left the Spyder parked in my heated garage, for as long as three months straight with no special attention other than making sure the gas tank was filled up before parking it. This is typically putting it away at the end of November, and it sits idle Dec, Jan and Feb.
The Spyder has never failed to start on the first attempt after winter hibernation.
A phenomenal machine.
I can't predict what might happen if it sits more than 100 days.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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Active Member
2012 RT A&C SE5
2015 Victory Cross Country (Dyno tuned 118hp 116tq)
2006 Triumph Rocket Dyno tuned 140hp 154tq)
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Originally Posted by vindex1963
Those are big words.
LOL, LOL again, LOL.
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Active Member
2018 Silverado LTZ 3500HD CC LB 4X4 DRW Duramax/Allison
2019 Grand Design Momentum 381M w/Full Body Paint
2016 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited Special Series
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
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Very Active Member
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Originally Posted by Ready2Retire
So... What's the best handgun caliber for self defense?
John
.40 cal although most of mine are now 9mm since I tend to leave pistols, full mags and loose rounds scattered all over the house......just in case. I've still got a .40 cal S&W for sale. That'll be the last of my .40's. 10mm is great but ammo is expensive and harder to find than 9mm. Depending on the size of your house, subsonic 300 Blackout works well, slung out of an AR. Supersonic will deafen you and if you're defending yourself, you really don't have time to put on ears. I've also found that 410 is a great gauge for a self defense shotgun. Not quite as noisy as 12 ga but will still stop an intruder in their tracks.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by MONK
.40 cal although most of mine are now 9mm since I tend to leave pistols, full mags and loose rounds scattered all over the house......just in case. I've still got a .40 cal S&W for sale. That'll be the last of my .40's. 10mm is great but ammo is expensive and harder to find than 9mm. Depending on the size of your house, subsonic 300 Blackout works well, slung out of an AR. Supersonic will deafen you and if you're defending yourself, you really don't have time to put on ears. I've also found that 410 is a great gauge for a self defense shotgun. Not quite as noisy as 12 ga but will still stop an intruder in their tracks.
Actually, I was just being snarky...like what's the best oil, best pick-up truck brand, etc...Having said that, the best handgun caliber for self defense in my most humble opinion is that which the individual shooter can best handle and shoot accurately. I prefer .45ACP (I also have a GLOCK G38 in .45GAP that I like) but that is too much handgun for my DW. She has small hands and lacks the forearm strength needed for that caliber. She shoots best with her Sig .380. For those that would call the .380 a "sub-caliber", let me let her shoot you in the chest, center mass, and afterwards you tell me it's not effective...
Back on topic...
John
2018 Silverado LTZ 3500HD CC LB 4X4 DRW Duramax/Allison
2019 Grand Design Momentum 381M w/Full Body Paint
2016 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited Special Series
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
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Handguns are a bad idea for home defense due to over penetration of walls and consequent damage to other people.
Shotgun is the only way to go. Solid stopping power, low penetration of surrounding walls. And, not to mention, very
high intimidation factor.
Okay, now back to the original thread.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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Active Member
Pickles!!!
OK back on topic
"Friend to those who have no friends. Enemy to those who need no enemies. Headache to those who have no aspirin."~ The Phantom Texter
2019 F3 s , Neutrino Aurora Accessory Fuse Block Blue
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Very Active Member
Way, way, way, off topic folks.
This thread is about: Starting and Running the Spyder All Winter.
Consider this a gentle nudge.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Very Active Member
Yeah, I start and run my Spyder all winter. Never have put a bike on a battery tender or put stabilizer in the tank. I live in Florida and I will ride even if the temperature never gets above 40 degrees. I ride at least once or twice a week and usually 4 or 5 times a week in winter, summer, fall, and spring. No sense in putting it away when I can still ride. Snows here maybe once every 25 years and stays on the ground about half a day then. No salt ever put on our roads. Worse that you see in winter is if you ride after a rain and freeze, there could be ice on the roads. That is very rare. I almost always ride at least 20 or 30 miles minimum if I start it up. It is about 12 mile just to the nearest town. Never had any gas go bad or battery die before its time. I put average of 8,000 to 12,000 a year on the Spyder now. Back when I was younger I averaged 25,000 a year. Can't get away long enough to do that no more.
Everybody can't ride all year because of the road conditions and weather, but I can so I do.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Gwolf
Yeah, I start and run my Spyder all winter. Never have put a bike on a battery tender or put stabilizer in the tank. I live in Florida and I will ride even if the temperature never gets above 40 degrees. I ride at least once or twice a week and usually 4 or 5 times a week in winter, summer, fall, and spring. No sense in putting it away when I can still ride. Snows here maybe once every 25 years and stays on the ground about half a day then. No salt ever put on our roads. Worse that you see in winter is if you ride after a rain and freeze, there could be ice on the roads. That is very rare. I almost always ride at least 20 or 30 miles minimum if I start it up. It is about 12 mile just to the nearest town. Never had any gas go bad or battery die before its time. I put average of 8,000 to 12,000 a year on the Spyder now. Back when I was younger I averaged 25,000 a year. Can't get away long enough to do that no more.
Everybody can't ride all year because of the road conditions and weather, but I can so I do.
Happily, I am now in the same situation. I ride most any day of the year and the only thing that keeps me off the road is snow or ice. We had a few hours of each last winter.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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I ride most days. NO parked bike for me. The only days I won't ride is if it's raining, Arizona drivers don't know how to drive in the rain or on wet roads.
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Very Active Member
No riding today for us, but here's some things to think about - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCo2kQwBFSI
IMG_2172[2].jpg NOCO Genius is on the 16 F3T and Stabil 360 in the tank; your brands will vary! Looking forward to the next warm day or two...
07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
What do I think of you repeatedly starting & running your Spyder for short periods throughout your winter layover?!
DON'T DO IT!!
Unless you are starting and running your Spyder at RYDING REVS for at least about 30 mins each time, all you'll be doing is sucking green steam outta the battery with each start and not running the engine long enough to properly replenish the voltage drain caused by each of those starts, leaving your battery getting weaker & weaker & pretty much just destroying it over time; you'll be repeatedly starting it on cold oil and not running it for long enough to properly warm THE OIL up to its proper operating temps (oil takes somewhat longer than the coolant to reach its operating temp) so you'll be repeatedly applying accelerated wear rates to the 'usually oil coated' internals; you'll never be running it for long enough to properly warm the metal bits up properly, causing condensation to form throughout the engine internals & especially in the exhaust system & really just not running it for long enough to heat everything up enough to 'cook' any of that condensation out, creating accelerated corrosion in there too; and basically, you'll be doing your Spyder a WHOLE LOT of disservice thru those repeated ' Not Ryding' & start ups/short running!!
If you are going to park it up for the winter:
- just add the fuel stabiliser in order to stop the fuel going off AND to avoid the fuel attracting & absorbing too much moisture/water contamination from the air, as well as not spreading that throughout the whole fuel injection system, thereby starting rust & corrosion chewing into the entirety of the fuel system internals AND making starting/running well in the new season harder/much less likely;
- connect it to a battery TENDER/MAINTAINER if that's your bent (not just a 'Charger' - you don't want to 'cook' the battery by over-charging it!) or you could even disconnect &/or take the battery out if you want to put it up on a bench/in a cupboard;
- protect your Spyder/Ryker from rodent attack & cover it if you feel that necessary; and
- then LEAVE IT ALONE to hibernate safely thru the winter until you are ready to start ryding again in the new season!!
Repeated starts & short duration periods of engine idling &/or running during lay-over periods are quite simply, not very good at all for any machine in sooo many ways, and the fuel 'going off' & getting stale is probably the least of the very valid reasons for choosing to add fuel stabiliser!!
Good post..I might add, an automatic battery charger works for long term storage too , as it does the same as a Battery Tender (cuts off when the battery is full). Also, fill the tank with ethanol free fuel. Ethanol tends to attract water, so use real dinosaur juice and fill it full. Also, add a cup of kerosene to the mixture. That will inhibit any corrosion that dares to form and will actually clean the injectors when burnt.. And, if you feel the need to start it up during the hibernation period, then the tryke needs to be ridden a minimum of 20 miles. That should be enough to dry and circulate everything completely.
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