Starting and running the Spyder all winter

[Steve W.]

OK, we're comparing apples to oranges here.

YOU are talking about StarTron, I'M talking about Sta-Bil.

Two different products for the same application, but two products, nonetheless.

.

[campermac]

don't mean to add anymore confusion around what to use in the tank. Both Stabil and Startron are good products. I myself prefer the Startron because if you read the reviews it has a little bit better characteristic for storage and it is the recommended fuel stabilizer for almost all marine outboard engines. In addition to the fuel additive I also stick an ounce of Seafoam in the tank and slosh it around then let it run for a good 30 minutes. The Seafoam is probably the best thing for injectors and carbs to clean them and get any gunk off of them so they are clean for storage.

This is just my 2 cents, you do what you feel comfortable doing with your bike, but like everyone else said DO NOT start it periodically over winter.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK, we're comparing apples to oranges here.

YOU are talking about StarTron, I'M talking about Sta-Bil.

Two different products for the same application, but two products, nonetheless.

.

I said that in my post ..... anywho .. Sta-Bil also has a " Marine formula " which does what my Star-Tron will do concerning Ethanol .... good price at Walmart ...... Mike

[Steve W.]

My point was that you were poo-pooing my statement about 2-3 ounces would treat the tank and you were suggesting that I re-read the instructions on the bottle. I did. They were correct. I am guessing that your suggestion was based on the product that YOU are using, which is obviously a different product.

I'm out.

.

[Mikey]

The only thing doubling up's going to do is make it smoke more when you get it out in the spring, for the first tank full. No real harm as far as I can see! Not using it at all with this crap gas we have, that's a crap shoot that I will not play!! Back in the day you would just shut the fuel valve and run the carbs dry, open the valve in the spring and go for it!!! Miss the old days some times!!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My point was that you were poo-pooing my statement about 2-3 ounces would treat the tank and you were suggesting that I re-read the instructions on the bottle. I did. They were correct. I am guessing that your suggestion was based on the product that YOU are using, which is obviously a different product.

I'm out.

.

I'M SORRY I EVER SAID ANYTHING. I WON'T DO IT AGAIN. MERRY CHRISTMAS .....Mike

[ARtraveler]

Some times, thick skin is required. When you post, you leave yourself open to criticism from many sides. When you start taking it personal, then the fun begins.

If one does not like a reply, ignore it. At least some will agree/disagree anyway.

Battery tenders? Gas stabilizer? Brands? Ounces? Not worth getting entangled by them. Say your opinion, let others post with theirs. The right answer can be many things.

[RICZ]

Oh My Gosh! Are we in the process of making "fuel stabilizer" toxic words just because different ones require a different amount in the tank?

[BajaRon]

Some times, thick skin is required. When you post, you leave yourself open to criticism from many sides. When you start taking it personal, then the fun begins.

If one does not like a reply, ignore it. At least some will agree/disagree anyway.

Battery tenders? Gas stabilizer? Brands? Ounces? Not worth getting entangled by them. Say your opinion, let others post with theirs. The right answer can be many things.

A great deal of wisdom.

[ThreeWheels]

I'll be the contrarian here.
I live a little further south, so I've managed to take the Spyder out during the winter on many occassions.
There have, however, been about three different years where I left the Spyder parked in my heated garage, for as long as three months straight with no special attention other than making sure the gas tank was filled up before parking it. This is typically putting it away at the end of November, and it sits idle Dec, Jan and Feb.
The Spyder has never failed to start on the first attempt after winter hibernation.
A phenomenal machine.
I can't predict what might happen if it sits more than 100 days.

[MONK]

Some times, thick skin is required. When you post, you leave yourself open to criticism from many sides. When you start taking it personal, then the fun begins.

If one does not like a reply, ignore it. At least some will agree/disagree anyway.

Battery tenders? Gas stabilizer? Brands? Ounces? Not worth getting entangled by them. Say your opinion, let others post with theirs. The right answer can be many things.

One word...............TIRES.

[vindex1963]

I'M SORRY I EVER SAID ANYTHING. I WON'T DO IT AGAIN. MERRY CHRISTMAS .....Mike

Those are big words.

[RazzleH]

Those are big words.

LOL, LOL again, LOL.

[Ready2Retire]

One word...............TIRES.

So... What's the best handgun caliber for self defense?

John

[RICZ]

So... What's the best handgun caliber for self defense?
John

Not a 10mm....you'll lose it!

[MONK]

So... What's the best handgun caliber for self defense?

John

.40 cal although most of mine are now 9mm since I tend to leave pistols, full mags and loose rounds scattered all over the house......just in case. I've still got a .40 cal S&W for sale. That'll be the last of my .40's. 10mm is great but ammo is expensive and harder to find than 9mm. Depending on the size of your house, subsonic 300 Blackout works well, slung out of an AR. Supersonic will deafen you and if you're defending yourself, you really don't have time to put on ears. I've also found that 410 is a great gauge for a self defense shotgun. Not quite as noisy as 12 ga but will still stop an intruder in their tracks.

[Ready2Retire]

.40 cal although most of mine are now 9mm since I tend to leave pistols, full mags and loose rounds scattered all over the house......just in case. I've still got a .40 cal S&W for sale. That'll be the last of my .40's. 10mm is great but ammo is expensive and harder to find than 9mm. Depending on the size of your house, subsonic 300 Blackout works well, slung out of an AR. Supersonic will deafen you and if you're defending yourself, you really don't have time to put on ears. I've also found that 410 is a great gauge for a self defense shotgun. Not quite as noisy as 12 ga but will still stop an intruder in their tracks.

Actually, I was just being snarky...like what's the best oil, best pick-up truck brand, etc...Having said that, the best handgun caliber for self defense in my most humble opinion is that which the individual shooter can best handle and shoot accurately. I prefer .45ACP (I also have a GLOCK G38 in .45GAP that I like) but that is too much handgun for my DW. She has small hands and lacks the forearm strength needed for that caliber. She shoots best with her Sig .380. For those that would call the .380 a "sub-caliber", let me let her shoot you in the chest, center mass, and afterwards you tell me it's not effective...

Back on topic...

John

[Possible]

Handguns are a bad idea for home defense due to over penetration of walls and consequent damage to other people.
Shotgun is the only way to go. Solid stopping power, low penetration of surrounding walls. And, not to mention, very
high intimidation factor.

Okay, now back to the original thread.

[SgtRay]

Pickles!!!

OK back on topic

[ARtraveler]

Way, way, way, off topic folks.

This thread is about: Starting and Running the Spyder All Winter.

Consider this a gentle nudge.

[Gwolf]

Yeah, I start and run my Spyder all winter. Never have put a bike on a battery tender or put stabilizer in the tank. I live in Florida and I will ride even if the temperature never gets above 40 degrees. I ride at least once or twice a week and usually 4 or 5 times a week in winter, summer, fall, and spring. No sense in putting it away when I can still ride. Snows here maybe once every 25 years and stays on the ground about half a day then. No salt ever put on our roads. Worse that you see in winter is if you ride after a rain and freeze, there could be ice on the roads. That is very rare. I almost always ride at least 20 or 30 miles minimum if I start it up. It is about 12 mile just to the nearest town. Never had any gas go bad or battery die before its time. I put average of 8,000 to 12,000 a year on the Spyder now. Back when I was younger I averaged 25,000 a year. Can't get away long enough to do that no more.

Everybody can't ride all year because of the road conditions and weather, but I can so I do.

[ARtraveler]

Yeah, I start and run my Spyder all winter. Never have put a bike on a battery tender or put stabilizer in the tank. I live in Florida and I will ride even if the temperature never gets above 40 degrees. I ride at least once or twice a week and usually 4 or 5 times a week in winter, summer, fall, and spring. No sense in putting it away when I can still ride. Snows here maybe once every 25 years and stays on the ground about half a day then. No salt ever put on our roads. Worse that you see in winter is if you ride after a rain and freeze, there could be ice on the roads. That is very rare. I almost always ride at least 20 or 30 miles minimum if I start it up. It is about 12 mile just to the nearest town. Never had any gas go bad or battery die before its time. I put average of 8,000 to 12,000 a year on the Spyder now. Back when I was younger I averaged 25,000 a year. Can't get away long enough to do that no more.

Everybody can't ride all year because of the road conditions and weather, but I can so I do.

Happily, I am now in the same situation. I ride most any day of the year and the only thing that keeps me off the road is snow or ice. We had a few hours of each last winter.

[remus]

I ride most days. NO parked bike for me. The only days I won't ride is if it's raining, Arizona drivers don't know how to drive in the rain or on wet roads.

[AeroPilot]

No riding today for us, but here's some things to think about - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCo2kQwBFSI

IMG_2172[2].jpg NOCO Genius is on the 16 F3T and Stabil 360 in the tank; your brands will vary! Looking forward to the next warm day or two...

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

What do I think of you repeatedly starting & running your Spyder for short periods throughout your winter layover?!

DON'T DO IT!!

Unless you are starting and running your Spyder at RYDING REVS for at least about 30 mins each time, all you'll be doing is sucking green steam outta the battery with each start and not running the engine long enough to properly replenish the voltage drain caused by each of those starts, leaving your battery getting weaker & weaker & pretty much just destroying it over time; you'll be repeatedly starting it on cold oil and not running it for long enough to properly warm THE OIL up to its proper operating temps (oil takes somewhat longer than the coolant to reach its operating temp) so you'll be repeatedly applying accelerated wear rates to the 'usually oil coated' internals; you'll never be running it for long enough to properly warm the metal bits up properly, causing condensation to form throughout the engine internals & especially in the exhaust system & really just not running it for long enough to heat everything up enough to 'cook' any of that condensation out, creating accelerated corrosion in there too; and basically, you'll be doing your Spyder a WHOLE LOT of disservice thru those repeated 'Not Ryding' & start ups/short running!!

If you are going to park it up for the winter:

• just add the fuel stabiliser in order to stop the fuel going off AND to avoid the fuel attracting & absorbing too much moisture/water contamination from the air, as well as not spreading that throughout the whole fuel injection system, thereby starting rust & corrosion chewing into the entirety of the fuel system internals AND making starting/running well in the new season harder/much less likely;
• connect it to a battery TENDER/MAINTAINER if that's your bent (not just a 'Charger' - you don't want to 'cook' the battery by over-charging it!) or you could even disconnect &/or take the battery out if you want to put it up on a bench/in a cupboard;
• protect your Spyder/Ryker from rodent attack & cover it if you feel that necessary; and
• then LEAVE IT ALONE to hibernate safely thru the winter until you are ready to start ryding again in the new season!!

Repeated starts & short duration periods of engine idling &/or running during lay-over periods are quite simply, not very good at all for any machine in sooo many ways, and the fuel 'going off' & getting stale is probably the least of the very valid reasons for choosing to add fuel stabiliser!!

Good post..I might add, an automatic battery charger works for long term storage too , as it does the same as a Battery Tender (cuts off when the battery is full). Also, fill the tank with ethanol free fuel. Ethanol tends to attract water, so use real dinosaur juice and fill it full. Also, add a cup of kerosene to the mixture. That will inhibit any corrosion that dares to form and will actually clean the injectors when burnt.. And, if you feel the need to start it up during the hibernation period, then the tryke needs to be ridden a minimum of 20 miles. That should be enough to dry and circulate everything completely.