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How to loosen axle bolt
Have a 2020 f3t need to adjust belt, the muffler is in the way. The socket won't fit, no room! How do I do it?
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Active Member
Remove Exhaust?
Loosen the clamp, and you can slide the exhaust out of the way
the funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it........
Spyder F3s 2019 All Black ( Named it: Brutus)
Carbon Items added, just for looks
Upgraded Shocks Trac-Tive, Rear hi/lo and rebound adjustable, with Hydraulic Pre-Load adjuster
fronts hi/lo and rebound adjustable, custom made by the Trac-Tive Guru's
Swaybar (Ron's)
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Pedalbox, Awesome Upgrade...
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Active Member
This socket fits under the muffler on my 2020RT. Be sure to put a cloth pad between the muffler and socket wrench to protect the muffler. I don't need to loosen the exhaust clamp to make this work. I use a 36mm combination wrench on the other side with a piece of 2x4 on the floor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
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Very Active Member
Raise the bike. The swing arm will drop far enough that the axel bolt will be exposed below the muffler.
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Originally Posted by sandman53
Have a 2020 f3t need to adjust belt, the muffler is in the way. The socket won't fit, no room! How do I do it?
You only need to hold the nut, undo the axle from the left side. The axle is essentially a long bolt and nut, it matters not which end you turn to slacken it.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
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Very Active Member
When you get ready to tighten the axle nut get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4882-Rear...5041893&sr=8-2.
613hgE2ZIEL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
With it you can achieve the specified torque using a 120 lb-ft torque wrench.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
You only need to hold the nut, undo the axle from the left side. The axle is essentially a long bolt and nut, it matters not which end you turn to slacken it.
Ahyup, that's how I did mine, and tightened it up the same way.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
You only need to hold the nut, undo the axle from the left side. The axle is essentially a long bolt and nut, it matters not which end you turn to slacken it.
99.99999999999999 % of competent mechanics will " un-do " the nut ..... unless that end end is totally un-accessible ...... Mike
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This isn't rocket science, it's an axle bolt for cryin' out loud. Hold whichever end you can get a wrench on easily.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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Very Active Member
Just like all things in life, there is no one simple answer as to whether tightening the nut is preferable to tightening the bolt head. I've always tried to tighten the nut as I think that is the better choice. So I did a Google search to find information to defend that position. There isn't much. This Canadian website that discusses tightening of bolts in steel construction states nut or bolt turning without differentiation. https://www.appliedbolting.com/turn-of-nut-dsq.php. This Marsh Fasteners website states in most cases there isn't any difference between tightening the nut or bolt head. https://www.marshfasteners.com/matte...bolt-head-nut/. Two situations where one should tighten the nut and not the bolt head is if the bolt is long enough that twisting torque is a significant component of the torque, or if the bolt has interference with the material it passes through. And there are innumerable cases where a bolt is screwed into a block rather than going through it, like engine head bolts, so obviously tightening has to done using the bolt head. From what I read, tightening torque consists 80% to 95% friction between the nut and the piece being bolted with the remainder being torque to stretch the bolt.
So Mike, even though I agree with you that we should tighten the nut and not the bolt, it looks like that position may not be clearly defensible! We just might have to admit that PRP has a valid point. Ouch!!!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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I do both ways; turn the axle and hold the nut, or, remove the muffler and turn the nut and hold the axle. Since I do this, I checked. With a digital torque wrench, that goes out 4 decimal places. Know what? The difference between the two techniques was so insignificant, and in a couple of cases, no difference at all, I can very confidently say it does not matter! Removing the muffler is a matter of two bolts! I’ve discovered it is actually faster to remove the muffler, as re installing the axle is simple if you can see. With the muffler off, the torque wrench goes on the nut. I do tires almost every week; I have 6 in the garage for folks right now, waiting on them. I’m doing 2 tomorrow!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Just like all things in life, there is no one simple answer as to whether tightening the nut is preferable to tightening the bolt head. I've always tried to tighten the nut as I think that is the better choice. So I did a Google search to find information to defend that position. There isn't much. This Canadian website that discusses tightening of bolts in steel construction states nut or bolt turning without differentiation. https://www.appliedbolting.com/turn-of-nut-dsq.php. This Marsh Fasteners website states in most cases there isn't any difference between tightening the nut or bolt head. https://www.marshfasteners.com/matte...bolt-head-nut/. Two situations where one should tighten the nut and not the bolt head is if the bolt is long enough that twisting torque is a significant component of the torque, or if the bolt has interference with the material it passes through. And there are innumerable cases where a bolt is screwed into a block rather than going through it, like engine head bolts, so obviously tightening has to done using the bolt head. From what I read, tightening torque consists 80% to 95% friction between the nut and the piece being bolted with the remainder being torque to stretch the bolt.
So Mike, even though I agree with you that we should tighten the nut and not the bolt, it looks like that position may not be clearly defensible! We just might have to admit that PRP has a valid point. Ouch!!!
Well here's a defense - #1. bolts in engine blocks DON'T have NUTS, so that isn't even a possibility ..... #2., I have on occasion encountered bolts that were either " rusted " in or having to deal with a steel bolt ( with nut ) in a part made from Aluminum ...... and my comment was " to general applications " not anything specific. ..... Mike
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I prefer not to turn a hollow shaft axle from the non nut side. Prefer to torque it on the nut side. JMO
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
I prefer not to turn a hollow shaft axle from the non nut side. Prefer to torque it on the nut side. JMO
Since it's been pretty much shown that the torque values are the same regardless of which end you turn, then the torque values
will be same whether you hold it at one end, or turn that same end. You're still inputting that torque on that hollow shaft.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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