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  1. #1
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    Default How to loosen axle bolt

    Have a 2020 f3t need to adjust belt, the muffler is in the way. The socket won't fit, no room! How do I do it?

  2. #2
    Member Piratezz's Avatar
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    Remove Exhaust?

    Loosen the clamp, and you can slide the exhaust out of the way
    the funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it........

    In the garage, Spyder F3s Black Monolith

  3. #3
    Active Member ButterSmooth's Avatar
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    This socket fits under the muffler on my 2020RT. Be sure to put a cloth pad between the muffler and socket wrench to protect the muffler. I don't need to loosen the exhaust clamp to make this work. I use a 36mm combination wrench on the other side with a piece of 2x4 on the floor.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
    Spyder Tryke Pylot

  4. #4
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Raise the bike. The swing arm will drop far enough that the axel bolt will be exposed below the muffler.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  5. #5
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    open end wrench

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandman53 View Post
    Have a 2020 f3t need to adjust belt, the muffler is in the way. The socket won't fit, no room! How do I do it?
    You only need to hold the nut, undo the axle from the left side. The axle is essentially a long bolt and nut, it matters not which end you turn to slacken it.
    Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
    Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    When you get ready to tighten the axle nut get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4882-Rear...5041893&sr=8-2.

    613hgE2ZIEL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

    With it you can achieve the specified torque using a 120 lb-ft torque wrench.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal View Post
    You only need to hold the nut, undo the axle from the left side. The axle is essentially a long bolt and nut, it matters not which end you turn to slacken it.
    Ahyup, that's how I did mine, and tightened it up the same way.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  9. #9
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal View Post
    You only need to hold the nut, undo the axle from the left side. The axle is essentially a long bolt and nut, it matters not which end you turn to slacken it.
    99.99999999999999 % of competent mechanics will " un-do " the nut ..... unless that end end is totally un-accessible ...... Mike

  10. #10
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    This isn't rocket science, it's an axle bolt for cryin' out loud. Hold whichever end you can get a wrench on easily.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  11. #11
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Just like all things in life, there is no one simple answer as to whether tightening the nut is preferable to tightening the bolt head. I've always tried to tighten the nut as I think that is the better choice. So I did a Google search to find information to defend that position. There isn't much. This Canadian website that discusses tightening of bolts in steel construction states nut or bolt turning without differentiation. https://www.appliedbolting.com/turn-of-nut-dsq.php. This Marsh Fasteners website states in most cases there isn't any difference between tightening the nut or bolt head. https://www.marshfasteners.com/matte...bolt-head-nut/. Two situations where one should tighten the nut and not the bolt head is if the bolt is long enough that twisting torque is a significant component of the torque, or if the bolt has interference with the material it passes through. And there are innumerable cases where a bolt is screwed into a block rather than going through it, like engine head bolts, so obviously tightening has to done using the bolt head. From what I read, tightening torque consists 80% to 95% friction between the nut and the piece being bolted with the remainder being torque to stretch the bolt.

    So Mike, even though I agree with you that we should tighten the nut and not the bolt, it looks like that position may not be clearly defensible! We just might have to admit that PRP has a valid point. Ouch!!!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  12. #12
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    I do both ways; turn the axle and hold the nut, or, remove the muffler and turn the nut and hold the axle. Since I do this, I checked. With a digital torque wrench, that goes out 4 decimal places. Know what? The difference between the two techniques was so insignificant, and in a couple of cases, no difference at all, I can very confidently say it does not matter! Removing the muffler is a matter of two bolts! I’ve discovered it is actually faster to remove the muffler, as re installing the axle is simple if you can see. With the muffler off, the torque wrench goes on the nut. I do tires almost every week; I have 6 in the garage for folks right now, waiting on them. I’m doing 2 tomorrow!
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  13. #13
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Just like all things in life, there is no one simple answer as to whether tightening the nut is preferable to tightening the bolt head. I've always tried to tighten the nut as I think that is the better choice. So I did a Google search to find information to defend that position. There isn't much. This Canadian website that discusses tightening of bolts in steel construction states nut or bolt turning without differentiation. https://www.appliedbolting.com/turn-of-nut-dsq.php. This Marsh Fasteners website states in most cases there isn't any difference between tightening the nut or bolt head. https://www.marshfasteners.com/matte...bolt-head-nut/. Two situations where one should tighten the nut and not the bolt head is if the bolt is long enough that twisting torque is a significant component of the torque, or if the bolt has interference with the material it passes through. And there are innumerable cases where a bolt is screwed into a block rather than going through it, like engine head bolts, so obviously tightening has to done using the bolt head. From what I read, tightening torque consists 80% to 95% friction between the nut and the piece being bolted with the remainder being torque to stretch the bolt.

    So Mike, even though I agree with you that we should tighten the nut and not the bolt, it looks like that position may not be clearly defensible! We just might have to admit that PRP has a valid point. Ouch!!!
    Well here's a defense - #1. bolts in engine blocks DON'T have NUTS, so that isn't even a possibility ..... #2., I have on occasion encountered bolts that were either " rusted " in or having to deal with a steel bolt ( with nut ) in a part made from Aluminum ...... and my comment was " to general applications " not anything specific. ..... Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    99.99999999999999 % of competent mechanics will " un-do " the nut ..... unless that end end is totally un-accessible ...... Mike
    It's good to see you have so many mechanic friends!
    Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
    Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    I prefer not to turn a hollow shaft axle from the non nut side. Prefer to torque it on the nut side. JMO

  16. #16
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    Thanks to all of you!

  17. #17
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    I prefer not to turn a hollow shaft axle from the non nut side. Prefer to torque it on the nut side. JMO
    .... .... and that makes reason #3. ...... ....... Mike

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    I prefer not to turn a hollow shaft axle from the non nut side. Prefer to torque it on the nut side. JMO
    Since it's been pretty much shown that the torque values are the same regardless of which end you turn, then the torque values
    will be same whether you hold it at one end, or turn that same end. You're still inputting that torque on that hollow shaft.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

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