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no brakes,any thoughts
have a 2017 f3 limited,took off the frame bars and had them painted,at the same tim I pulled the rear tire and had a new one put on.Also changed the rear brakes pads,put it all back together after watching many videos and I have no brake pressure.One video said to pump up brakes before turning on parking brake,dont think I did that,as of now I have no brake pressure,any thoughts would be appreciated
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Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Air in lines somewhere most likely. Need to bleed it out.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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no codes,and i did not take apart any lines,so I thought there could be nor air,but that is what it feels like,the pedal hits the floorboard and has a very small amount of brake
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Have you tried pumping the brake pedal? The brakes needed to be pumped so that the rear brake caliper piston extends out to seat against the new brake pads. I am not talking about bleeding the brakes. Just pumping the pedal a few times to see if it gets hard.
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Time to bleed the brakes.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
It sounds awfully much like the new rear brake pads aren't grabbing the disc, so all the pedal travel is going into fruitlessly trying to get them to close on the disc?!?
Are you sure the rear caliper went back on properly?? Maybe check to make sure you have a pad on each side of the disc, & not both of them on the one side.... Cos it's probably something odd like that, or you've got a bigger issue further up the (brake) line somewhere?!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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was looking at bleeding the brakes,I do all my other motorcycles,but the videos i have watched on bleeding says you have to have the BUD setup,not sure about all that,maybe because it has abs brakes,
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Definitely sounds like we are missing something here. If you did not take apart any brake lines or open any bleeders. And you did not change out the brake fluid in such a way as to introduce air into the system. And you did not press the brake peddle with the caliper(s) removed. Then there should be no air in the system. It doesn't just sneak in somehow. Even if there were air in the system. You should be able to pump your brakes quickly and get some additional, though temporary, resistance at the peddle. I don't think it possible to crush or crimp a brake line on the Spyder.
Did you re-assemble the parking brake system correctly? Does it need to be adjusted?
It will be interesting to find out what the problem is on this one.
Originally Posted by 3ntune
was looking at bleeding the brakes,I do all my other motorcycles,but the videos i have watched on bleeding says you have to have the BUD setup,not sure about all that,maybe because it has abs brakes,
You only need BUDS to bleed the ABS portion of the brake system. Typically, for a simple air in the lines issue, you don't need BUDS.
Last edited by BajaRon; 11-08-2020 at 09:52 AM.
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I believe you only need the BUDS system if you want to bleed the ABS modules. Just bleeding the lines, should be able
to be done...most vehicles are like that.
You have checked the level in the master cylinder, right?
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How did you compress the caliper pistons to get new pads in ? I generally have to open the bleeder a bit to do that...
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Originally Posted by 3ntune
was looking at bleeding the brakes,I do all my other motorcycles,but the videos i have watched on bleeding says you have to have the BUD setup,not sure about all that,maybe because it has abs brakes,
I have not yet had the pleasure of doing this task, but it is my understanding that you can bleed the brakes without using BUDS. I have gotten the impression that BUDS is necessary to cycle the ABS system so that brake fluid will go through there, too. If you are doing a fluid change and don't use BUDS, there will be a very small amount of the old fluid left in the system. I have no idea what percentage that might be, but I get the impression it's rather small.
Go ahead and bleed the system as you have done your 2-wheelers in the past. Since the bike was not run and the ABS was not triggered, there should be no air in the ABS part of the system, so a 'standard' bleed process should be just fine.
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2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Originally Posted by davev1pa
How did you compress the caliper pistons to get new pads in ? I generally have to open the bleeder a bit to do that...
Nope, not a good idea, and not necessary. Opening a bleed valve runs the risk of introducing a bit of air into the system. All the fluid will return to the
master cylinder, just make sure it isn't in danger of becoming over full.
But I have to agree with BajaRon: if you didn't open any lines anywhere, there is no way for air to enter the system. You might make sure the master cylinder
piston is retracting fully. If it sticks and doesn't return, you won't have any pressure. Just a thought.
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Thanks all,found the problem, when I installed the #5 brake rod to floorboard #5 position,I had made a slight wrong measurement for new brake pedal ,the bottom of the brake pedal was hitting the top of the floorboard,so got out the tools and made a new brake pedal arm,and OH YEAH,its all good at the shop
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Very Active Member
3ntune, here's what I did to get my brake pedal where I needed it, what did you do?
BRAKE ROD.jpg
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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bought bajaron tool,works awesome
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Originally Posted by redrazor
Does anyone make a longer brake rod for my 2014 RTL? It looks like another 1/2 to 3/4 inch would raise my pedal to where I'd like it to be. I'm pretty handy in my shop; but it would be nice to just acquire one without the work involved. (??)
Work, what work??? I find these work-around projects fun. It's fun exercising my brain to come up with a design. It's fun seeing the design evolve into a workable piece. It's fun being able to say, "I did it and it works!" It's fun having more of ME in my bike than things purchased from others.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Originally Posted by 3ntune
Looks sharp!
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Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-09-2020 at 05:38 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-09-2020 at 05:39 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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