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Very Active Member
What wheel balancer do you use for front wheels?
I have a Marc Parnes balancer with cones that work for the rear wheel but the center hub on the fronts is too small & narrow for any cones available from MP. I also tried an auto shop dynamic balancer but the same issue - hub diameter too small for their cones.
Harbor Freight has a bubble balancer but it appears to be very inaccurate per reviews.
I'm using beads for now but would prefer using weights. What else is out there for doing the fronts?
'20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
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LaMonster sells ( which I use on my Goldwing and F3L) Centramatics, wheel balancer discs......expensive,but smooooooth ride.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bikerchris1270
LaMonster sells ( which I use on my Goldwing and F3L) Centramatics, wheel balancer discs......expensive,but smooooooth ride.
Thanks! I considered those but I'm trying to avoid dynamic beads and discs. Just looking for a proper balancing tool to determine fixed weight positions.
'20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
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I have used Centramatics for several years, first with my 2012 Goldwing and now with my 2016 RTL.
On the Wing, no other balancing was required and the ride was smooth.
As to the Spyder - Per Centramatics instructions, they advise getting the wheel balanced initially as well as the Centramatics added.
I believe that caveat is because of the lower quality Kenda tires. Before I replaced those stock tires, one side had 1 oz and the other had 1.25oz of wheel weight to bring the tire into balance. The Veredsteins I put on required .25 oz on one tire and 0 on the other tire.
And my ride is very smooth.
FWIW
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I have the Marc Parnes set for my 2015 RT. He did make a set of adapters for me for the front wheels. I have had those for at least three or four years. Contact the company directly and ask for the adapters for the front wheels on the Spyder. I also had to purchase a longer shaft from Marc Parnes to be able to balance the rear wheel.
MPAdapters.jpg
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Very Active Member
I have a bubble balancer that I bought from JC Whitney years ago. That worked for my fronts. It looks very similar to the HF balancer, I would try that one myself. Sometimes you have to tweak the HF stuff to get it to work properly, you get what you pay for.
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Active Member
the harbor freight bubble balancer works fine. using a bubble balancer requires patience and time. beats a spin balancer any day. the spin balancers are usually set up for 1/4 ounce tolerence. all you have to do with the harbor freight balancer is to zero the bubble and oil the steel pointed tip. i also use the balancer for my car tires.
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Very Active Member
I have and use a Snap On hand spun dynamic balancer for cars / trucks. Fits the 14 and newer Spyder wheels without any issues. Never tried on 2013 and prior but no reason they should not fit.
When balancing, I place weights on the inner flange, outer flange or both. This prevents precession or wobble imbalance.
While others believe that usually automotive balancers are set up for 1/4 ounce increments, some might be, but I dial in the setting fr within one tenth of an ounce.
All the best in getting it sorted out.
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Very Active Member
I also use the Marc Parnes unit on all three wheels. I contacted Marc directly and he supplied everything needed. I had an older set so he had me send him the cones I had and he modified them to work with the longer shaft that was needed for the rear wheel.
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but our benefits don't?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Gunner3773
I have the Marc Parnes set for my 2015 RT. He did make a set of adapters for me for the front wheels. I have had those for at least three or four years. Contact the company directly and ask for the adapters for the front wheels on the Spyder. I also had to purchase a longer shaft from Marc Parnes to be able to balance the rear wheel.
MPAdapters.jpg
Thanks! I emailed Marc and he does have cones that fit the fronts. I ordered the $50 'COMBI' cones from his Spare Parts page.
'20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
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Originally Posted by RayBJ
I have a Marc Parnes balancer with cones that work for the rear wheel but the center hub on the fronts is too small & narrow for any cones available from MP. I also tried an auto shop dynamic balancer but the same issue - hub diameter too small for their cones.
Harbor Freight has a bubble balancer but it appears to be very inaccurate per reviews.
I'm using beads for now but would prefer using weights. What else is out there for doing the fronts?
Without question.... the best way to balance a tire/wheel is on the vehicle, using a Stewart Warner/Alamite type
Dynamic balancer.
Used one for years on cars, trucks,& motorcycles. You will have to find some one who knows how to do it because
all the newer stuff out there is off the car/bike type. by doing it on the vehicle you are balancing the tire, wheel brakes
everything that rotates as a unit.... I did a zillion of them on Choppers with extended front forks in our shop
Motorcycle Dave's LOGO.jpg
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Not to completely disagree, but when you pull the rear wheel on a Spyder, and most motorcycles wheels in general, everything that rotates
comes off with the wheel. So when you balance the wheel you are balancing everything that rotates. The front wheels are like car tires in
that rotors don't come off with the wheels.
Just curious why would extended forks be treated any differently than any other motorcycle front wheel?
I agree that balancing wheels in situ on vehicles other than motorcycles is the best idea.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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Hi If you have never ridden a chopper with LONG forks they dance around and vibrate alot
even the slightest amount of out of round can pound and bounce up and down a bunch.
I used to use a runout gauge to get everything as round as possible and then balance the assembly.
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I have ridden a bike with extended front forks, a '71 Bonneville in fact. But the front wheel is a unit, so
balancing it off the bike will work too. Making sure the wheel is not out of round, or axially off is a very
good idea. Not such a big deal anymore with the advent of cast wheels. Another one of those ideas that
look very cool, but are actually pretty stupid.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Gunner3773
I have the Marc Parnes set for my 2015 RT. He did make a set of adapters for me for the front wheels. I have had those for at least three or four years. Contact the company directly and ask for the adapters for the front wheels on the Spyder. I also had to purchase a longer shaft from Marc Parnes to be able to balance the rear wheel.
MPAdapters.jpg
Originally Posted by PW2013STL
I also use the Marc Parnes unit on all three wheels. I contacted Marc directly and he supplied everything needed. I had an older set so he had me send him the cones I had and he modified them to work with the longer shaft that was needed for the rear wheel.
Can anyone tell me how long of a shaft is needed for the rear wheel? Marc's standard for the Spyder's is a 14" shaft.
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Very Active Member
Never mind, Marc found his notes and the shaft length is 16" for the Spyder's rear wheel.
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