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 Originally Posted by Harrison55
So I started my oil change got engine oil out and the transmission plugs is stripped. I have trip a quick extract and grab it lugs. Any ideas. I have five almost five quarts of oil out of the engine.
What should I do.
I already have take to dealer on list. Any other ideas.  
Did it strip taking it out ( that can happen ) or trying to put it back in???
Is it the plug that is stripped or is it the oil sump case ?
that could end up being a very expensive repair..... I hope for you it is just the plug. ALWAYS HAND TIGHTEN ANY
BOLT GOING INTO THE ENGINE TO BE SURE IT IS NOT STRIPED
Good luck.The above is talking about the threads, if you have a stripped out Torx that is not so bad
read on all have good ideas.
Last edited by Motorcycledave; 11-05-2020 at 07:48 PM.
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Is the hex head stripped or the bolt threads.
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Your profile says your Spyder is a 2015 RT-S. Now, I am assuming the plug you say is stripped is the clutch cover plug on the lower right side of the engine. Question #1, is it stripped because the 6mm Allen plug has been mucked up or are the threads on the plug and/or clutch cover stripped? Question #2, if the 6mm hole in the plug is rounded out, can you can try to grab the plug with vice grips and attempt to remove it, or hammer a slightly larger 3/8 drive Torx bit into the whole and remove it with a ratchet or breaker bar? You might also consider using JB weld on the bit you intend to hammer into the gouged out plug, let it fully cure and then try to remove it. Before attempting to remove it you might consider rapping the plug with a hammer to possibly break any heat varnish seal on the plug.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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I have had good luck with hammering in a slightly bigger torx bit in a stripped out fastener head. The hammering seems to help shock it loose. Your results may very. I take no responsibility if the project goes sideways!
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When I had my transmission rebuilding shop I had to remove hundreds of plugs that were overtightend by the last person to change the fluid.I am guessing that you stripped the socket hole in the plug bc it was too tight.Here is what I would do.Get this thing jacked up high enuf to get some room underneath for swinging a hammer.Get a dremel tool or some kind of grinder so you can make a small groove on one side of the plug,just a shallow groove,do not cut thru into the aluminum cover.This groove needs to be just deep enuf to catch the edge of a chisel.Now take a good sized chisel and if its new and still sharp just grind it down a bit to make it a little dull so it doesnt cut thru the plug but still sharp enuf to grab that groove.Now put the chisel in the groove at a 45 deg angle making sure when you hit it it will turn the plug ccw ,use a big hammer and give a good couple whacks.I caution you that if you slip or miss you could hurt the bike or your hand but this will work.
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: 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE
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^^^^^^^^^^^This works. I've done hundreds of bolts over the years that were too damaged to turn with a wrench. It does work.
Peggy and Howard
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5
His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor
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chisel and hammer should do. May not need to dremel........
Otherwise, oil it up, drive to dealer.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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Clamp a vise-grip onto the flange and tap with a hammer. If that doesn't work, let us know and there are other things to try.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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not enough oil left to worry about finish oil change
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If the hex head on the plug is stripped or deformed too much for a socket to fit, the plug can still be removed by tapping with a hammer and chisel like described in previous posts. Whatever you do, don't put it back in. Once you get it out, replace it with a new one. Most of the plug stripping is because of over-torquing. The torque values are for clean, dry threads. Unless you turn the Spyder upside down to put the plug backl in, it is almost impossible to have clean, dry threads. I use the metal encased, fiber washers made for the oil plugs on many imported cars in place of the OEM crush washers. You can buy them in lots of 25 or 50. Never reuse one of them. They are cheap. Toss them and put it back with a new one. They don't need to be near as tight to prevent leaking. I never torque them at all. I just snug them up with a short 3/8 ratchet and leave it there.
You are very lucky it is only the hex head that is boogered up. Over torquing the plugs can cause stripped threads in the case or plugs broke off in the case. A stripped hex is easy to fix................ stripped out threads, not so easy.
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Thanks guys finally got it I use all the ideas.
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Does your dealer have one in stock? If not, fairly sure I have an extra one.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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Very Active Member
Value Accessories carries them and the ship fast and are inexpensive. Bp-5 301 or BP-5 302 not sure which.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
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