Choosing a set of wires in a BRP dash to power a GPS device.
I have purchased a USB 12 V device that I can mount about anywhere on the bike, but I’d rather have it on the dash itself. In doing a little exploring I popped off the cover where the oil pressure gauge could be installed. Behind the cover is a plug. The wires are orange blue and purple going into the plug. What I’d like to know is which one of those is the ground and which one of those is the positive wire. I think this would work out well as it’s tied into the ignition system and shuts off when the bike shuts off. Any advice you could give me would be very helpful. Thank you, Peter.
I have purchased a USB 12 V device that I can mount about anywhere on the bike, but I’d rather have it on the dash itself. In doing a little exploring I popped off the cover where the oil pressure gauge could be installed. Behind the cover is a plug. The wires are orange blue and purple going into the plug. What I’d like to know is which one of those is the ground and which one of those is the positive wire. I think this would work out well as it’s tied into the ignition system and shuts off when the bike shuts off. Any advice you could give me would be very helpful. Thank you, Peter.
OK let’s try a new question. What is the best way to hook up a 12 V USB device to the dash area of a spider? Thanks so much
Check Youtube for Can Am Spyder Accessories and find the How to install a Power USB. This is for the RT's. There are probably similar ones for the F3. If that is what you ride as you don't mention it. Nor do you mention the year.
Sorry about that. It’s a 2016 Can-Am spider BRP. I just thought there was an easy way, To get to you proper wiring by taking the dash faceplate off rather than several body panels and running wires directly to the battery. Thanks for keeping me straight.
You can use the connector you speak of, it has12v ignition switched power - orange/red is positive, black/violet is ground. You may have two positive cables, one is for the gauge, the other is for the gauge illumination. They both connect together in the harness so you can use either of them.
On the left-hand connector there is also another cable, it goes to the cluster to tell it an accessory gauge is connected, this switches the cluster fuel and temperature on or off dependent upon an accessory gauge being fitted or not.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
I just wanted you to know that I followed your directions to a T and everything wired up perfectly. I mounted the port in the plate where one of the gauges would go and everything is solid as a rock. Thanks so much for your help I really appreciate it. It was certainly much easier than pulling off a lot of panels and routing wires down to the battery. Peter
I should’ve added this before, but here’s the results of your advice. Don’t know why but when I posted the photo it turned 90°.
But no old enough to know what model Spyder you ride. A 2016 Spyder could be an RT or an F3. Quite different models. Also it’s safer to not make connections to existing wires as it could cause system errors and that’s not fun. Check YouTube for how to safely install things.
Pardon me. OK it’s a 2016 Can-Am spider RTSE6, Black in color with a semi automatic transmission. It also has a few upgrades but that’s not important here. As I said I did.not want to remove body panels and feed wires for three hours. The connector I used has an inline fuse and the direction given it took about 45 minutes with a coffee break. And it gives me charging and stationary voltage.
I see that you’re a gold wing Road rider association member. Good for you. I was a charter member and helped start the newsletter when it was a one page typed document and watched it grow into a great magazine. I remember with fondness the number of conventions we would have from hurricane Mills to Colorado Springs. Good group of people. If I recall Craig Vetter was very involved in the late 70s and 80s also. Congratulations on the number of years you’ve been involved. Peter
Pardon me. OK it’s a 2016 Can-Am spider RTSE6, Black in color with a semi automatic transmission. It also has a few upgrades but that’s not important here. As I said I did.not want to remove body panels and feed wires for three hours. The connector I used has an inline fuse and the direction given it took about 45 minutes with a coffee break. And it gives me charging and stationary voltage.
There is a unused GPS2 power source behind the fuel tank that I just used to provide power to my dual USB/volt meter. It required removing right side tupper ware include the side piece back to the saddle bag.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.