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  1. #1
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    Default Bleeding/flushing brake fluid.

    So I知 about to take on my first bleeding of brake fluid on 15 RS.
    From what I gathered so far I need one-man kit or vacuum canister to do it by myself.
    I知 leaning toward one-man kit bottle with one way valve so I can attach the hose to bleeding nipple and pump the brake pedal without help.

    Q1: do I need to bleed in certain sequence?
    Q2: is rear reservoir for front and front reservoir for rear?
    Q3: do I keep filling reservoir as I知 pumping the brake till new fluid starts to come out?
    Q4: do front wheels need to be off?

    Thank you I知 advance.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  2. #2
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Q1: LF, RF, Rear
    Q2: Don't remember, simply open both reservoirs when bleeding LF and see.
    Q3: Yes, that is unless you want to risk introducing air into the system -- Monday humor!
    Q4: Don't know; am not familiar with '15 RS calipers.

    Remember, without B.U.D.S. you won't be able to trigger the ABS module to flush it but the amount of fluid in it is small.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  3. #3
    Active Member SpyderJerry's Avatar
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    This is from the service manual: As Jaybros said you do not need buds to finish job. A little will be left in the system. DO NOT TURN ON KEY DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS.

    To avoid serious damage to the brake system:
    – Use only DOT 4 brake fluid from a sealed
    container.
    – Use only a clean funnel when filling brake
    fluid reservoir.
    – Do not use brake fluid taken from old or
    already opened containers.
    – Do not mix different fluids for topping off.
    General Guidelines
    This procedure is divided in multiple tasks that
    must be completed in a specific order according
    to the following table.
    STEP TASK
    1 Perform manual bleeding procedure (left
    caliper, right caliper, rear caliper and VCM)
    2 Perform B.U.D.S. bleeding procedure (front
    circuit and rear circuit)
    3 Validate the system pressure
    2014 RT SE6

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    I hear speed bleeders are the cats a#$! Install, loosen, put a hose on the bleeder and pump into a bottle or pan!! When done close the bleeder and go to the next wheel! Just keep the res full while pumping!! I haven't done it myself yet, but I have a set on the bench waiting to install!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  5. #5
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aka1004 View Post
    So I知 about to take on my first bleeding of brake fluid on 15 RS.
    From what I gathered so far I need one-man kit or vacuum canister to do it by myself.
    I知 leaning toward one-man kit bottle with one way valve so I can attach the hose to bleeding nipple and pump the brake pedal without help.

    Q1: do I need to bleed in certain sequence?
    Q2: is rear reservoir for front and front reservoir for rear?
    Q3: do I keep filling reservoir as I知 pumping the brake till new fluid starts to come out?
    Q4: do front wheels need to be off?

    Thank you I知 advance.
    1. Always bleed the farthest wheel first, so probably left side front.
    2. Yes
    3. Fill it when it gets low, or siphon out some fluid first and fill up with fresh, so you dont pump as much old fluid out.
    4. Helps and they are not hard to take off.

    The problems with the one man kits is that once you crack the nipples, you can suck air back in as you release the pedal. The valve is after the threads so it doesnt do much.

    The vacuum kits work by trying to suction out the fluid. I tried one of the bottle kits that was supposed to be hooked to a compressor to create suction, it sucked all right but not fluid. There are also the hand pump mityvac style bleeders, I cant say how well those work, maybe somebody else can chime in.

    The most reliable way is a clear tube on the nipple and somebody to push down on the pedal and hold it till you say release. You open the nipple when there is pressure and close it off before the pedal comes up. On the fronts is pretty fast and easy to do. On the rear, much more of a pia in how you get to the nipple, at least on my RT. Maybe your RS is easier, on the RT the caliper is under the storage compartment.

    There are also replacement nipples that have the check valve built in, I havent tried those, have heard pros and cons.

    As for the ABS, yes you are supposed to use BUDS, but without you still are moving out most of the fluid. If you are just cycling out old fluid for new, probably not a big issue. If you have air in the system and the pedal is still spongy afterward, then you may need to bring it in.
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

    \
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  6. #6
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    I've used Speedbleeders and tried a Mityvac.

    The Speedbleeders just flat out work, the Mityvac, not so much. The problem with the Mityvac is you'll suck air past the threads
    in the bleeders. If you pull all the bleeders, seal the threads, and then bleed the system, the Mityvac works very well. But that is
    a lot of work for not a lot of benefit. Especially when Speedbleeders make the bleeding process all but painless.

    No, I don't sell them, or work for them, but have used them and they are high on my "Most Bang for the Buck" list.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  7. #7
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    Default

    Thank you for the inputs.
    I致e been looking at bottle with one way valve so I can insert the hose, open and pump without needing help but hose below with one way valve may be the solution.
    Speed bleeder pretty much utilizes same idea, one way valve and it痴 a permanent fix.
    What size do I need for spyder RS? There were many different models.
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    6 states down 42 states to go

  8. #8
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Before you do the bleeding, order a set of Speed Bleeders, they make the job truly and one man operation and an easy one at that. I have put Speed Bleeders on all my vehicles for years.
    http://speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  9. #9
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    Default

    Thank you.
    So with speed bleeder in place, end of the hose doesn稚 have to be submerged in fluid? To prevent air from sipping in?
    6 states down 42 states to go

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Speedbleeders

    Quote Originally Posted by aka1004 View Post
    Thank you.
    So with speed bleeder in place, end of the hose doesn稚 have to be submerged in fluid? To prevent air from sipping in?
    That's the JOY of speedbleeders. The hose DOESN'T need to be submerged at all.
    They make brake bleeding just TOO EASY.

    I draw out the old fluid in the res and fill and pump. New fluid comes out quick---- close the speedbleeder and move on to the next wheel. Easy Peasy.

    Lew L
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    Default

    Speed Bleeders are the way to go.
    I have them on my 2013 STS. OK. Just got off the phone with SpeedBleeders.
    They are exchanging my order of SB8 125L for SB6 125L.
    As Lew said "draw out the old fluid in the reservoir and refill. Then open one of the speedbleeders and pump. New fluid comes out quick---- close the speedbleeder and move on to the next wheel".

    for reference:
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=speedbleeders
    David C
    2016 F3T
    DIY Garage Door Opener & GPS Mount
    Battery tender cable
    Rear IPS Pack Rack



  12. #12
    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    Speed Bleeders are the way to go.
    I have them on my 2013 STS. OK. Just got off the phone with SpeedBleeders.
    They are exchanging my order of SB8 125L for SB6 125L.
    As Lew said "draw out the old fluid in the reservoir and refill. Then open one of the speedbleeders and pump. New fluid comes out quick---- close the speedbleeder and move on to the next wheel".

    for reference:
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=speedbleeders
    David C
    2016 F3T
    DIY Garage Door Opener & GPS Mount
    Battery tender cable
    Rear IPS Pack Rack



  13. #13
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    I have a brake bleeder made from a surplus lab hand vacuum pump and a couple of catch bottles set up to prevent brake fluid from being sucked into the vacuum pump. Works real well to pull the brake fluid into the lines without a lot of air bubbles. I have used it on the bikes, but works well on other vehicles too, and didn't cost near what a store bought brake vacuum pump sells for. Mine will hold a half gallon of brake fluid, or whatever else you might be extracting. I have used it to remove oil from over filled engines using a tube down the dipstick hole. Doesn't matter what you pull with it. The product you are moving never goes into the vacuum pump. It is caught in a clear glass jug with measurement marks on the side.
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  14. #14
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
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    I managed for over 60yrs without Speedbleeders.
    Installed them last year and don't know how I managed without them. So easy now.
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
    2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc

  15. #15
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default Brakes

    Lots of good advice on brake bleeding. My tip: Careful about getting the fluid on your Spyder. It will damage your Ryde. .......
    ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
    Ryde with a Friend and be Safe

    My Spyder .....'Little Blue-Boy'
    2016 RT Limited , Orbital Blue

  16. #16
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    With Speed Bleeders, the ONLY other equipment you need is a wrench to open them. And you do that only once.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  17. #17
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    Thank you all for the inputs. It doesn’t sounds so daunting now.

    Is 12oz of fluid enough for entire flush?
    6 states down 42 states to go

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Yes, Unopened container is best as brake fluid will absorb water from the air. Not good on your hands or paint.
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  19. #19
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    Thank you. I will get the smaller, 12 oz bottle.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  20. #20
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    I have used a vacuum generator. Works with my air compressor. Works really well. Be careful not to drain the reservoir.

    Have used Speed Bleeders as well. Great product.
    Eckhard

    Spyder RT Ltd, 2011
    2011 RT Ltd. , Pearl White

  21. #21
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    What size hose? I知 gonna need some to direct fluid to a container.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  22. #22
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    I'm thinking 1/8" I.D., maybe 3/16". Just off the top of my head.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  23. #23
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Speed Bleeder offers a hose and collection bag for not much moola.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  24. #24
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    Thank you again.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  25. #25
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    They have a built-in check valve.....

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