Sure you can us it, if you don't want full protection designed specifically for motor cycle engines.
How, exactly, is a motorcycle engine different from most other ICE? Other than the shared transmission. I have never used a
"motorcycle specific" engine oil in all my motorcycling life, which is well over 50 years. The closest I ever came was running Castrol in my
early bikes back in the sixties and seventies. Dozens of bikes, and hundreds of thousands of miles, and never an engine failure of any kind.
The tolerances in the new automobile engines are just as tight, or tighter, than any motorcycle engine. And, except for the shared transmission,
are just as hard on a motor oil as most bike engines. Many motorcycle engines rev higher than a car, but that certainly wouldn't apply with the
Spyders.
How, exactly, is a motorcycle engine different from most other ICE? Other than the shared transmission. I have never used a
"motorcycle specific" engine oil in all my motorcycling life, which is well over 50 years. The closest I ever came was running Castrol in my
early bikes back in the sixties and seventies. Dozens of bikes, and hundreds of thousands of miles, and never an engine failure of any kind.
The tolerances in the new automobile engines are just as tight, or tighter, than any motorcycle engine. And, except for the shared transmission,
are just as hard on a motor oil as most bike engines. Many motorcycle engines rev higher than a car, but that certainly wouldn't apply with the
Spyders.
Well there is a HUGH difference between motors that have Separate oil for the engine and transmission and engines ( like our Spyders ) use the same oil in both ..... ask BAJARON 9 the oil guru ..... Mike
The friction modifiers in car oil will most likely glaze the clutch plates in your Spyder,expensive to repair. Use the correct made for motorcycle wet clutch system oils.
The friction modifiers in car oil will most likely glaze the clutch plates in your Spyder,expensive to repair. Use the correct made for motorcycle wet clutch system oils.
Not all automotive oils contain the friction modifiers. Check the API ratings and go from there.
Well there is a HUGH difference between motors that have Separate oil for the engine and transmission and engines ( like our Spyders ) use the same oil in both ..... ask BAJARON 9 the oil guru ..... Mike
There is a difference, and it may not be a huge as you think it is. There is a lot of shear due to the gears and clutch, but modern motor oils stand up to those
surprisingly well. It's all JMO, but based on many years of riding, and wrenching, on bikes. There is probably some benefit to using a motorcycle specific oil, but,
IMO again, not enough to justify the extreme prices.
Now the use of the semi-automatic transmision on the Spyder does add a level of use that may make a specific oil better to use.
Please give us a reason with the scientific rationale why you would use a motor oil other than that specified in pgs 108 and 154 of your operator's guide. That is unless you want to use it as a precursor see if you can get BRP to cover the cost of warranty repairs in the event something goes wrong with your engine or transmission. Should that be your intention you better have mighty deep pockets to pay a very good lawyer.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
In my vtx1800 I used mobile one 10/40 full synthetic not the motorcycle specific grade can I use this 10/40 in the spyder?
Originally Posted by RazzleH
Sure you can us it, if you don't want full protection designed specifically for motor cycle engines.
Take a look at the label to see if your Mobil 1 is certified for use in wet clutches. It may not use those exact words, but might also say something about JASO. Ideally, you want a JASO MA rating.
While you are looking at the lable, look in the API "donut". If it has the words "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving", you do NOT want it, there are friction modifiers in there that don't play well with your clutch. Since most of the cars that will use that oil also use lighter weights, they will usually be a max of 30-weight. They might exist, but I have never seen an "Energy Conserving" 40-weight.
Originally Posted by Possible
Now the use of the semi-automatic transmision on the Spyder does add a level of use that may make a specific oil better to use.
The transmissions are identical. The "semi-automatic" transmission is exactly the same as the manual, the only difference is how it is activated. The "semi-automatic" is just a fancy electric shifter on the same transmission.
Please give us a reason with the scientific rationale why you would use a motor oil other than that specified in pgs 108 and 154 of your operator's guide. That is unless you want to use it as a precursor see if you can get BRP to cover the cost of warranty repairs in the event something goes wrong with your engine or transmission. Should that be your intention you better have mighty deep pockets to pay a very good lawyer.
Considering the Spyder in question is Peggy's 2013 STS SM5, and waaaaay out of warranty, getting BRP to cover any warranty
issues is moot. And the engine in the Spyder is a detuned motorcycle engine, nothing special, and definitely not high performance,
or over stressed. There's nothing in the Spyder motor that necessitates any special oil. It's not much different from Harley-Davidson
recommending only Harley-Davidson oils for their tractor engines. All those oils are created by a few companies, unless BRP has their
own refinery, they are buying from somebody else.
Anyway, this is all just how I feel about motorcycle specific oils. I don't expect everyone, or maybe even anyone, to agree with me.
But I just feel I need to speak out when the motorcycle specific oil subject comes up. It comes up periodically on almost all motorcycle
forums I've ever been around for any time. I won't defend my views vociferously, because I just feel the way I feel. As always, freedom
of choice is a wonderful thing. Vote with your wallet, I do.
The transmissions are identical. The "semi-automatic" transmission is exactly the same as the manual, the only difference is how it is activated. The "semi-automatic" is just a fancy electric shifter on the same transmission.
.
I had read that there is a centrifugal-type mechanism built into the SE-5 clutch that can be problematical with certain types of oil. And I have seen
it in the parts fiche, so I know its there, but never having had one apart, I would hesitate to pass judgement on the intricacies of the mechanism.
Yes, the transmissions on the V-twins with a 5-speed transmission have a centrifugal type of clutch, which is why you need to keep the revs up. The 6-speed transmissions on the 1340 engines have a completely different style of clutch, but they both need to avoid oils with friction modifiers. The oil doesn't need to be "motorcycle specific", just doesn't need the modifiers that make it work better in a car.
If you want to protect your engine, tranny and clutch and save $$, read the specs on the back label on a jug of Rotella T6. You will see that it is JASO MA2 rated. Which means it's proper for motorcycles with wet clutches and shared transmissions. BTW, Rotella has a rebate going currently.
Whatever brand oil you fancy for you bike(s), make certain it's JASO MA2 rated.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
Considering the Spyder in question is Peggy's 2013 STS SM5, and waaaaay out of warranty, getting BRP to cover any warranty
issues is moot...
My apology, I did not realize you were talking about a '13 STS SM5 and not your RT. Had I known I would have left off the last two sentences. That said, IMO, following the operator's guide is still the wisest practice concerning the recommended API service codes and I agree with voting with one's wallet as one chooses.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
What I always have been told was to use an oil that’s not energy conserving because it would cause the clutch to slip, so I used mobile 1 10w40.
The way I see it by following the manufacturers advice if an issue arises you may have some recall v taking the 'advice' of a stranger with zero skin in the game.
Mobil 1 does have a motorcycle specific oil that is designed for wet clutch transmissions.
I don't know why anyone would put an oil not approved for wet clutch in their Spyder, but it is your Spyder and you can do whatever you want to with it.
Look at your API Service symbol on your bottle. This example is from a 5w20 oil. If the lower bar shows energy conserving, do not use in your wet clutch m/c. I doubt your M1 10w40 oil has energy conserving on it. ALL oils have friction modifiers of some sort. Not all are bad. M/C specific oils tend to have higher levels of zinc and phosphorous. They're also formulated to shear less quickly due to being used in motor/clutch/tranny. Will the M1 10w40 work in your Spyder? Sure. Will it be the best oil to use? No
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
and I have bought it on sale for about $ 5.55 per quart ...... Mike
You betcha, I just picked up a gallon of T6 a couple weeks ago for Peggy's Spyder and it was $22. Quite a few people run this oil
in their bikes, not just Spyders.
My apology, I did not realize you were talking about a '13 STS SM5 and not your RT. Had I known I would have left off the last two sentences. That said, IMO, following the operator's guide is still the wisest practice concerning the recommended API service codes and I agree with voting with one's wallet as one chooses.
No problems, I probably wasn't as clear as I should have been. Happens to me sometimes.
Sandylolee: I think most of us use a synthetic oil that is Jaso Ma/Ma2 rated. You can find these at Walmart: Mobil1 and Valvoline in 10-40 or Rotella T6 5-40. There is an Amsoil distributor near Kernersville that I know of. Or you might want to order a change kit from BajaRon that will include the Amsoil and filters.
FWIW, I recently came across are report on BITOG where a guy with a '16 F3L, 29K miles on it, changed his Amsoil with 9,600 miles on it; the Blackstone oil report showed it still good and recommended he try 12K next change. I know some folks can run their 1330's that long but I get in a dither if it gets to 5K. LOL
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
Before my Spyder, I had a Victory with the 106" engine. Once, I had inadvertently skipped an oil change and had about 8K+ miles on that Rotella T6. Curious if I had gone past that oil's use by date, I sent a sample into Blackstone for analysis. The report came back stating there were no anomalies and it was good for another 2500+ miles.
One thing I like about T6 is its base viscosity is 5W. That provides for faster circulation cold and quicker filling of the hydraulic lifters. With the viscosity that Victory recommends, the lifters would clatter for a bit until filled.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
Synthetic oil
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Originally Posted by sandylolee
and I have bought it on sale for about $ 5.55 per quart ...... Mike 
