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Interesting resolution to the Parking Brake issue
I wanted to share my experience with the parking brake won’t disengage issue.
Like many others this problem happened a couple of times, corrected on restart, and then eventually was not going to disengage!
I began my journey by releasing the parking brake cable at the rear tire so the bike would get me home. ( keep a 12mm wrench and pliers or spring pull tool in cargo at all times)
Checks fuse good
Read forums story after story
First I replaced the parking brake switch ( no fix) there
Then I found a used motor on eBay
Before replacing that I realized I could use alligator clipped testing cable and connect direct from battery to the quick disconnects in the motor wiring! Cable pulley didn’t move
Important the WPM module reverses battery polarity with one direction engaging the parking brake opposite direction releasing the parking brake
I noticed as I was working on this problem the starter was dragging a bit as if battery was not putting out enough voltage. So I ordered a new battery, installed new battery and bingo the parking brake pulley was operating again!
So as everyone eventually has the Parking Brake problem remember that a failing battery might not be issuing enough voltage for the WPM module! And also remember you can eliminate the motor being the culprit by running test cables directly from battery to the quick disconnect plugs along the frame by the brake pulley motor!
I have read every possible issue and resolution to this problem
Switch
Motor
WPM module
On my 2017 RT Limited SE6
It was simply the battery
I now have a spare motor but I am happy this problem is resolved as my Spyder sit for awhile as I went thru this journey
Just sharing information that might help the next guy dealing with this in my opinion an engineering flaw
Thanks for Reading
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Very Active Member
Good trouble shooting, glad resolved thanks for sharing. Caution to inexperienced using the alligator clips, suggest adding in line fuse for positive side.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
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Thanks for the thoughts. Low battery voltage appears to be the root cause of numerous 'hiccups' that we need to be aware of.
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Update: parking brake locked engaged again
Battery wasn’t the problem
#%?%#+¥£€ POS
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by RazzleH
Thanks for the thoughts. Low battery voltage appears to be the root cause of numerous 'hiccups' that we need to be aware of.
And that is why battery tenders were created; use them at all times, lots of parasitic drains on these machines. Volt meter correctly wired is also useful.
Al in Kazoo
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
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Active Member
Just a though but low voltage or failing batteries are hard on electrical parts and connections, still could of been the battery starting the problems.
2018 F3s, 2016 versys 650LT, 2001 concours 1000
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Very Active Member
Just another thought........ if the parking brake motor is going bad, it might require more battery power to activate it, and the battery power requirement could be intermittent, depending on some outside factors...........
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These electric brakes are a unnecessary farkle. They should be mechanical and save us all a lot of trouble. Some down market bikes had mechanical ones but I don't know if they will fit.
Eckhard
Spyder RT Ltd, 2011
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