While I had body panels out of the way doing an oil change this weekend, I decided to take a look at what some call an emergency frunk release. I do appreciate all the work that some of you have put into the videos on "how to" do those. My normal MO is to march to the beat of a different drummer, so I did some extensive probing and snooping under the hood to see if there might be something I could do with the frunk release that might make it better (in my mind anyway).
I gave it a lot of thought an decided I would rather not have to remove any panels to make it accessible as there have been many occasions where I realized I needed back in the frunk after starting up. At the same time, I did not want it so obvious that someone walking by might notice it and decide to help themselves to what-ever I had stored in the frunk. Especially if I did not take time to turn the handle bars to lock it.
While poking around the release mechanism I noticed a small hole drilled in the portion that moves to release the frunk lid using the key. I also noted it did not take a great deal of force to actuate that. I then obtained a bicycle cable kit an shortened one of those with the largest lead terminator to use as my frunk release cable.
These pictures start with my finished version of what one might see as they walk by. Study the first one pretty good before moving on to the second, third and fourth ones where I show the unpainted version then close-ups of the first two.
The next few pictures show how I made use of that pre-drilled hole in the internal release lever using an electrical connector to secure the cable and the routing of it all.
It's one of those hope you never need it but so happy you did it when you could things. Also don't have to get out the key just to grab something out of the frunk unless someone is looking. I like your placement.
It's one of those hope you never need it but so happy you did it when you could things. Also don't have to get out the key just to grab something out of the frunk unless someone is looking. I like your placement.
Thank you. I have to apologize for the way the pictures loaded up. Two of them are totally wrong on orientation and they are completely out of order. I've asked a moderator for help or to just delete the whole thing, if it cannot be fixed.
Here is part of the screenshot I saw just before clicking "Submit Reply". I've added in red the current order an which ones need rotating, but I don't think there is much else to do other than read between the lines an tilt your head the appropriate direction for the two that need to be oriented differently.
I did them on all my Spyders starting with my 08 GS which I bought in 09 .... then I did my 2011 RSS ... and then my 2014 RT .... No one can see mine even if they are laying on the ground next to the Spyder .... cost $ .50 .... I used to do them as a Vendor ..... and could do it in about 20 minutes ...... Welcome to the DIY club..... PS, the further up on the release lever you put the cable the easier it is to open .... it's the Fulcrum principal ...... Mike
I put a picture hanging wire onto the lever just like you did,just doesnt have an outer sheath.I routed my cable down to the area where the left shock bolt is and I formed a loop at the end.If I need to I just reach behind the plastic with one finger and snag that loop and pull.FYI,if you need to get back in frunk after the motor is running or if you wanted to pick up the seat just push down on your key and rotate the way the arrows point just like if you had turned the motor off first.
I put a picture hanging wire onto the lever just like you did,just doesnt have an outer sheath.I routed my cable down to the area where the left shock bolt is and I formed a loop at the end.If I need to I just reach behind the plastic with one finger and snag that loop and pull.FYI,if you need to get back in frunk after the motor is running or if you wanted to pick up the seat just push down on your key and rotate the way the arrows point just like if you had turned the motor off first.
Now, there's something I didn't know. I just figured once running the unlock feature in the key was disabled. OH WELL; at least now I'm ready for the failure of the original cable should it ever happen.
In the event anyone wants to see the pictures posted in the correct order described in the text, here is a link to a Facebook page that should allow anyone to see it. If links are forbidden, I'm sure someone will delete this and that's OK. It just bugs me that I couldn't get the page to load these correctly.