Motor Oil - Is BRP's XPS 4T 5w40 safe to use in my 2011 RT?

[Jfann]

Hoping you can help with a tech question.
I have a
2011 Can am Spyder RTS. I purchased the bike in 2013 with only 1580 miles on it.
I have always used the BRP XPS oil with the yellow / black/ and red label. Summer grade synthetic blend Part # 293600121
My dealer is now telling me all they sell and use in the spyders is and XPS 4T 5w40 part# 779133, orange/white/ black label and that it’s safe for my bike.
My manual says to NOT use an oil with an API rating “SM” that clutch damage will accure. which this new oil is SM
The local dealer says it will be fine???
Has there been an update (revision) to my manual? Is this safe to use?
Followed and trust you folks so I hope you can guide me in the right direction.
I appreciate your time!
Thanks
Jeff Fann
Grove City Ohio

[Mikey]

I do not know much about BRP's oils but if the oil states that it's ok for wet clutches, your good to go!! I have been using Amsoil Meteric in mine, works great!!

[JayBros]

I cannot get the BRP operator's guide web page to load to check several years but BRP does not publish either paper or online updates to their OGs. That said I think it is quite possible that at the time your guide was published BRP may not have tested an API SM oil with their wet clutches, particularly those in the V-twin engines. My OP guide says oils meeting SL, SJ, SH, or SG or higher are acceptable; no mention of SM whatsoever but a warning not to use additives in the oil. The oil change kits in the 2020 and 2021 online catalogs say they are good for both SE5 and SM5 engines. I think you're safe.

[Flamewinger]

This is more like the kit to use. 2 oil filters plus o-rings and washers along with the correct oil.

https://www.amazon.com/Spyder-Roadst...R45CPFAKJW39WF

[Possible]

Seriously? $83 for an oil change? My Cummins doesn't cost that much and it takes 3 gallons. I changed Peggy's 2013 STS using Shell Rotella T-6 15W-40 and
it cost $22 for a gallon of T-6 and $10 for a HiFlow Filter. But hers is the manual, not the semi-automatic. That may make a difference.

On Edit: After doing some reading, it does appear that the 998 engine with the SE5 clutch mechanism does not do well with the Rotella T-6.

[carbonation]

Lots of threads on this topic buried in SL.
Cliff notes, any wide spread XwXX rating has more of a tendency to shear.
The 998 shears oil, shredding a 40 weight to a 30 in about 3000 miles.
The same motor in the Aprilia uses 15w50 from the factory.
For all practical purposes, nearly any 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 will do just fine in the 998. There are few exceptions, but you are safe with any of the common, available motorcycle oils from Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilley, Wally World.
Valvoline at AutoZone.
Valvoline and Shell at Advance.
Castrol at O'Reilley.
SuperTech at Wally.
Quicksilver at walmart.com .
Mag1 delivered from Grainger.
On the auto and truck side of the house....
Shell Rotella 15w40 from everywhere.
Mystik 15w50 at Rural King.
Havoline 20w50 at Rural King.
Valvoline VR-1 from NAPA.
Everyone was very hesitant when the Spyder was new. My data (test's, experiments, used oil analysis), indicate the 998 can live pretty happily on several different oils as long as changed regularly.
50 weights gave the lowest wear rates. Cheap Havoline won the wear test, edging out Mystik.
Straight 40 weight Valvoline VR-1 was still in the 40 weight range at 4000 miles. No viscosity improvers to shear, no surprise. Only ran it once during the summer,
15wXX is good for cold starts down to 20 degrees, 10wXX down to 0. Zero need for a 5wXX in the 998, usless you live in Alaska, or Canada and ride iin that kind of cold. If you do, oil is way down on the list of your worries.
Flame suit on, and yes, I am pretty much alone in believing a 50 weight is appropriate.

[Possible]

Almost any engine that shares it's oil with the transmission and/or clutch, is pretty hard on oil. My VFR is very hard on oil because
in addition to wet clutch, it also has gear driven camshafts, so there are more points for shearing of the oil. Many VFR riders use
Rotella T-6 and are very happy with it, so I figured if it works in the VFR it should work just fine in the Spyder. Never any tales of
slipping clutches with T-6, but the VFR isn't a semi-automatic either though.

Just as an aside: When I rode a roller bearing bike back in the 80's, a Suzuki GS1000G, I installed a temp gauge just for grins and
giggles. I verified that running a 20W-50 motor oil created more heat than a 15W-40 motor oil. I always assumed it was the higher
viscosity that caused the heat issue. Perhaps that's why the Spyder recommends a lower viscosity motor oil, as it does seem to
have some heat issues due to the bodywork.

Anyway, just my thoughts.

[BajaRon]

Almost any engine that shares it's oil with the transmission and/or clutch, is pretty hard on oil. My VFR is very hard on oil because
in addition to wet clutch, it also has gear driven camshafts, so there are more points for shearing of the oil. Many VFR riders use
Rotella T-6 and are very happy with it, so I figured if it works in the VFR it should work just fine in the Spyder. Never any tales of
slipping clutches with T-6, but the VFR isn't a semi-automatic either though.

Just as an aside: When I rode a roller bearing bike back in the 80's, a Suzuki GS1000G, I installed a temp gauge just for grins and
giggles. I verified that running a 20W-50 motor oil created more heat than a 15W-40 motor oil. I always assumed it was the higher
viscosity that caused the heat issue. Perhaps that's why the Spyder recommends a lower viscosity motor oil, as it does seem to
have some heat issues due to the bodywork.

Anyway, just my thoughts.

Thinner liquids transfer/dissipate heat more efficiently than do thicker liquids. Something like the difference between an thick blanket and a thin one. But it's the high viscosity number that is in play during normal operation.

[pegasus1300]

Shell Rotella T 6 works very well. I use the 5 w40.