Yeah, my front tires look like new! I'm a real stickler about tire pressure, and check it constantly. I suppose all the time running the rear at 24 psi was bad for it. I don't even really ride that aggressively. Plus, living in Florida, all roads in my area are straight and flat.
That's how mine wore and the dealer told me it was because I had the tire pressure at 29 PSI it was over inflated and caused the premature wear in the middle. He told me if I had the tire at 26 PSI I would have gotten more milage out of it. I don't believe my issue was pressure related, the tires do not seem to wear well.
You could run 15 lbs in the rear tire and you'd still get this wear pattern. The dealer should (and probably does) know this. Some dealerships just can't tell the truth. It's some kind of genetic defect I think.
I must be doing something wrong lol. This is my rear tire at the current mileage of 16,000. I have run the recommended pressure since new and check it before most of my trips. I travel a lot for my job, and I ride my Spyder most of the time (read lots of interstate riding). I am aware that it needs to be changed, and will be doing so this winter.
Respectfully, I disagree. I think most of the time the engineers DO know best. Unfortunately, it's the bean counters who override the engineers and install cheaper (both cost and quality) parts.
I totally disagree with you. I have seen too many things ill designed regardless of the beaners assessment that I often say, "Where do they find these idiots?" I think that if engineers were forced to use the $*%t they design for 10 hours a day for just a week, they would design better $*%t. I redesign nearly everything I own to make them easier or better suited to use. Case in point: the grill I bought. If they would have added just 1/8" of lip onto the hood, the grill would not suck rain into it's guts and die a sad early death. Cost difference? Nothing. Think reverse curve gutter guards. That's only one example.
I must be doing something wrong lol. This is my rear tire at the current mileage of 16,000. I have run the recommended pressure since new and check it before most of my trips. I travel a lot for my job, and I ride my Spyder most of the time (read lots of interstate riding). I am aware that it needs to be changed, and will be doing so this winter.
Same here. I've got 11K on my OEM rear Kenda and it's not quite down to the wear bars yet. I run 28-29 psi, check it often, always ride solo and drive rather easy. Slightly more wear in the center than outside edges but a lot of mileage left in it for sure.
I totally disagree with you. I have seen too many things ill designed regardless of the beaners assessment that I often say, "Where do they find these idiots?" I think that if engineers were forced to use the $*%t they design for 10 hours a day for just a week, they would design better $*%t. I redesign nearly everything I own to make them easier or better suited to use. Case in point: the grill I bought. If they would have added just 1/8" of lip onto the hood, the grill would not suck rain into it's guts and die a sad early death. Cost difference? Nothing. Think reverse curve gutter guards. That's only one example.
Yeah, but if they made it so it last twice as long, you wouldn't be back to buy another one near as soon.
I was serious, I have been on this Forum since 2012..... and your tire is very unusual from all the other Kenda REAR tires I have seen. ..... Mike
Doesn't that just prove a number of comments I have seen about Kenda quality control. If you are very lucky you might get a good one, otherwise you are with the rest of us.
Respectfully, I disagree. I think most of the time the engineers DO know best. Unfortunately, it's the bean counters who override the engineers and install cheaper (both cost and quality) parts.
True. But the average customer tends to think that engineers have the last say. Which, of course, is far from the truth. This is where the 'Engineers know best' mindset comes from. Technically, it's true. Realistically, it doesn't always make it to the retail product.
Doesn't that just prove a number of comments I have seen about Kenda quality control. If you are very lucky you might get a good one, otherwise you are with the rest of us.
I don't think tire wear is a function of quality control. There are only 2 plies in the tread area. This is simply not enough strength to keep the tire symmetrical at freeway speeds. I am not sure where this ballooning begins to be significant. But I would guess that if you put most of your miles on at or below 50 mph, you might get a better wear pattern. But if you do a fair amount of 50+ mph. And especially 70 mph or higher. You're going to get this typical center wear pattern no matter what pressure you run in the tires.
Here is a good way to check. On a nice, flat piece of concrete. Run the tire through a wet spot and then out onto the dry. You'll see what kind of contact patch you have at 0 mph. If you are over-inflated. It will show up right there.
The chart below assumes the tread belts are adequate to resist centrifugal force at any speed the tire is rated for. Which is not the case with the Kenda's.
That's how mine wore and the dealer told me it was because I had the tire pressure at 29 PSI it was over inflated and caused the premature wear in the middle. He told me if I had the tire at 26 PSI I would have gotten more milage out of it. I don't believe my issue was pressure related, the tires do not seem to wear well.
True. But the average customer tends to think that engineers have the last say. Which, of course, is far from the truth. This is where the 'Engineers know best' mindset comes from. Technically, it's true. Realistically, it doesn't always make it to the retail product.
Well, you give the beaners too much credit. Case in point : you would agree that the Spyder is more likely to be owned by someone over fifty. The F3 (at least in '17) had acres of digital screen banked by an analog tack and analog speedo. Then they make the time and temp font (among others) in 10 point Helvetica which is impossible for the age bracket to see - too far away for bifocals and too small for regular lenses. Plus they waste acres of space on the rest of the display. Don't know if they have improved on it 'cuz I haven't seen the later versions. Complete engineer failure. How about the standard fridge? Freezer, which you rarely get into up top, & the rest of the fridge that you likely get into frequently on the bottom. Unless you're only 4 feet tall, you gotta bend over to see what you have in there and there is a good chance you'll bump your head on the freezer door!
Speaking of rear tire on the back of the 2020 RT, does anyone have any good suggestions for an easier way to check pressure on this tire? It is extremely hard to reach and check/fill with air when needed!
Thanks for any suggestions.
Speaking of rear tire on the back of the 2020 RT, does anyone have any good suggestions for an easier way to check pressure on this tire? It is extremely hard to reach and check/fill with air when needed!
Thanks for any suggestions.
After I got my first Spyder (09) I fixed that situation by adding a Metal 85 degree valve stem to the Disc side of the wheel ...... At my first rear tire change ( I went to an Auto tire ) ... I bought the valve ( Kurvey Gurl ) and drilled the correct size hole almost in the middle of the wheel ( for clearance for the tire changing machine ) .... makes pressure checking waaaaay easier .... Mike ......just checked and She is still selling them @ two for 11.00 , they are " Enkei" brand and are steel ( not aluminum )
it is still worn in the center much more than the edge but that is some really impressive mileage it is also probably the new Kenda Kanine most of the ones I see mine included was 2014
Absolutely 100% normal for the OEM tires. It would be a miracle if you got any other wear pattern. When you are at speed, the tire balloons out and you've got only 2-3 inches of tread contact with the road surface. The 225/50/15 tire is nearly 9" wide. So, you're getting maybe 30% of the tread in contact with the road at freeway speeds. Think about this when someone tells you that 'The engineers know best'.
I smile every time someone states that, they have to work within set guidelines that's not always best for the rider or the machine. Cooperate cost cutting and emissions.
I get the need for "Real Tires," but as yet in reading tire threads found what they are. By Brand and size. I would respectfully ask what you run as I am almost to the end of my stock Kenda rear for the second time in less than 2 years, and looking to get better fronts. I have about 2 weeks before my appointment to make these weighty decisions and look to those who are in the know for help.
I'm also guessing that knowing what I ride is important 2010 RS
Thanks in advance.
I get the need for "Real Tires," but as yet in reading tire threads found what they are. By Brand and size. I would respectfully ask what you run as I am almost to the end of my stock Kenda rear for the second time in less than 2 years, and looking to get better fronts. I have about 2 weeks before my appointment to make these weighty decisions and look to those who are in the know for help.
I'm also guessing that knowing what I ride is important 2010 RS
Thanks in advance.
For your 2010 RS, the recommended tire is the Bridgestone Potenza 165/65R14 on the front. Rear we recommend the Yokohama Advan Fleeva 205/55R15
Wearing out in the centre can be a problem with too high a pressure. The back tyre warms then spins up rather like a dragster when moving (much, much smaller scale of course). Had same issue as do a few friends. Just try with a lower pressure with the Kenda but normal with a car tyre.
Originally Posted by carsong
Reply With Quote
to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
