Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 64
  1. #26
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel The Biker View Post
    Here is the link to the aftermarket fuel pump for the spyders. https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23898...709000370.html
    It fits all spyders 2008 to present.
    Found this information in a different thread. 709000370 is a different part number from what comes up for 08 Spyder. (709000088)

    From CCP... Pump module is 709000088 for the 08 GS SM5 and 709000370 is from a 2014 RTS SE6

    Can anyone speak to the compatibility of these part numbers between years? The quote listed above is (so far) the only source of this info I have found.
    Pictures sure do look different from the OEM and aftermarket one. Anyone have one of these units in their machine? (Quantum Intank EFI Fuel Pump for Can-Am Spyder)

    Thank you for looking!

    pump1.jpg
    pump2.jpg

    F144221534.jpg

  2. #27
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    9,767
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Have you gotten a service manual yet? If not you'll need it. Go to canammanuals.com. Don't know how good the wiring diagram is for the 2008 models. You may need to get a later version also to get a good copy of the wiring diagram. They're about $25, download only. With all the interaction of the computer modules and sensors I'm skeptical how much you'll be able to get by with bypassing sensors. The service manual will help a lot in that regard.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  3. #28
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Have you gotten a service manual yet? If not you'll need it. Go to canammanuals.com. Don't know how good the wiring diagram is for the 2008 models. You may need to get a later version also to get a good copy of the wiring diagram. They're about $25, download only.
    I do. Have skimmed the owner's manual and read over a few sections of the service manual.

    I know I'm not telling most of you all anything new but that should be the first thing done if working on a project. Even if you aren't getting this far into it a service manual is a "must have" for anyone who plans on touching their bike for any reason.

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    With all the interaction of the computer modules and sensors I'm skeptical how much you'll be able to get by with bypassing sensors. The service manual will help a lot in that regard.
    Me too... walled garden

    The service manual seems to be very unhelpful in this regard for the most part.
    Don't get me wrong there is great info that I need in there but the "bypassing our sensors" section is missing from mine

    On a bit of a tangent... is there a reason the site does not offer service manuals for download? I know the arguments on both sides (Theft of personal property vs freedom and availability of information) but does SL have a rule about posting download links? I "man looked" as my wife calls it but I didn't see anything.

    Capture.jpg

  4. #29
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    9,767
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oh400ex View Post
    Found this information in a different thread. 709000370 is a different part number from what comes up for 08 Spyder. (709000088)

    From CCP... Pump module is 709000088 for the 08 GS SM5 and 709000370 is from a 2014 RTS SE6

    Can anyone speak to the compatibility of these part numbers between years?
    You are going to encounter a real dearth of information among members here about these types of questions. About the only in-depth digging into the bowels of Spyders that has been done by more than a rare few are flashing the ECM, air box changeouts, suspension mods, and catalytic converter bypasses. I don't recall any discussion of differences in fuel pumps. Those most knowledgeable about the guts of Spyders are techs who work on them for a living, and of course they don't talk for free! You really are on a solo adventure so kudos to you for your intrepidness!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  5. #30
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    9,767
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oh400ex View Post
    On a bit of a tangent... is there a reason the site does not offer service manuals for download? I know the arguments on both sides (Theft of personal property vs freedom and availability of information) but does SL have a rule about posting download links? I "man looked" as my wife calls it but I didn't see anything.
    Links to products which are, or can be construed as, solicitations for purchase are banned except for those connected to paying sponsors of the site. Links inside posts that are provided as information to help others are OK, such as the one above for the manuals site.

    Links to documents which can be legitimately downloaded are allowed. As far as the service manuals BRP has not made them available for purchase other than printed versions ordered through a dealer. The manuals that can be purchased online are of dubious legitimacy. As I see it the suppliers are so well hidden in the dark corners of the Internet that BRP can't reach them, or BRP has determined it's not financially worth it to take down the supplier. He provides a service that probably wouldn't be worth it for BRP to provide. My suspicion is that someone in the printing company, in China I think, probably diverts the BRP supplied PDF to the dark web supplier. China is notorious for counterfeiting. The last time I looked, Helms, the producer of many vehicle service manuals, no longer offers an electronic version of any vehicle manual.

    Another thing to be aware of as you search for parts. BRP documentation is not 100% consistent in the use of nomenclature. You will find ample opportunity to exercise ingenuity in figuring out how to search for some parts. For example, the microswitch that operates the light in the frunk of S and L models is not called a microswitch. I don't remember what it's called. Also, the part names in the parts list aren't always the same as in the text of the service or owner's manuals.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  6. #31
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Links to products which are, or can be construed as, solicitations for purchase are banned except for those connected to paying sponsors of the site. Links inside posts that are provided as information to help others are OK, such as the one above for the manuals site.

    Links to documents which can be legitimately downloaded are allowed. As far as the service manuals BRP has not made them available for purchase other than printed versions ordered through a dealer. The manuals that can be purchased online are of dubious legitimacy. As I see it the suppliers are so well hidden in the dark corners of the Internet that BRP can't reach them, or BRP has determined it's not financially worth it to take down the supplier. He provides a service that probably wouldn't be worth it for BRP to provide. My suspicion is that someone in the printing company, in China I think, probably diverts the BRP supplied PDF to the dark web supplier. China is notorious for counterfeiting. The last time I looked, Helms, the producer of many vehicle service manuals, no longer offers an electronic version of any vehicle manual.

    Another thing to be aware of as you search for parts. BRP documentation is not 100% consistent in the use of nomenclature. You will find ample opportunity to exercise ingenuity in figuring out how to search for some parts. For example, the microswitch that operates the light in the frunk of S and L models is not called a microswitch. I don't remember what it's called. Also, the part names in the parts list aren't always the same as in the text of the service or owner's manuals.
    Thank you very much for the helpful info and advice!

    On the nomenclature front did you possibly mean like the dash/cluster/instrument panel/multifunction gauge/speedotach?

    Seems like every single place I look has a different name for that part lol

    If the manuals that are available for purchase online are copies then they should not be available for sale. If BRP wanted to sell the manual for a reasonable price they would certainly be capable of that. Until otherwise directed I will offer my owners and shop manuals for free download.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hty...me2P-TaPkkcPX3 for the owners

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Muv...YfWgHhqPrisOOG for the shop
    Last edited by oh400ex; 10-15-2020 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Add shop download

  7. #32
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Well Spyder folks... here comes the bad with the good.

    Said a prayer, crossed my toes and pulled the throttle body off to find exactly what I hoped not to.
    As ready as I was for this kind of thing I would be lying if I said it wasn't a huge let down to find it in this shape.
    Everything the PO said carries the weight of a feather in a windstorm with me from here forward... that is for sure.

    Still a lot of meat on these bones but will need more TLC than I would have hoped.
    Here are some pictures of under the rocker cover. Not everything is doom and gloom. There is some surface rust on one of the cam lobes but no noticeable pitting and the timing chain appears to be in good condition. There may still be enough here to bring back to life but after researching how much parts are for these bikes I think I'll be OK either way.

    Definitely going to pull the heads next and see how much I can clean up. May never go back together...

    Cams are in amazing shape. Seen a lot of worn out engines and this is not one...
    Still might be destroyed in some way but there are salvageable parts none the less. I go back to happy to see it not hit the crusher either way.

    This thing is kinda fun to work on. Take apart anyway...
    Most everything is 10mm and it does have some of what seems to be logical decisions in design from a smooth-brain like me.
    Impact tools feel like cheating. I used to struggle for days with things that just zip right off with an impact.

    Bagged and tagged one head and took a shot or two before I put her to bed for the night.
    Still proceeding forward with restoration at this time but will need a light top end rebuild at minimum as well.

    Thank you for reading!

    20201015_154322.thumb.jpg.64a36b9dbb3de6053e555dbd41885915.jpg 20201015_154348.thumb.jpg.6a27cfa1ad7fc570728a594aa2f72c4d.jpg 20201015_172733.jpg
    20201015_162207.jpg 20201015_162228.jpg 20201015_162238.jpg
    20201015_184848.jpg 20201015_184940~2.jpg

  8. #33
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central Coast, CA
    Posts
    1,296
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Looks like it suck a lot of water from the firemen's hoses whilst putting out the fire.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






  9. #34
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KX5062 View Post
    Looks like it suck a lot of water from the firemen's hoses whilst putting out the fire.
    Yes. Either that or weather after the fact. PO straight up lied about that part but I was prepared for this kind of thing.

  10. #35
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Hello again Spyder folks!

    I do have a few more pictures of the damage for you to see.

    Turn that frown upside down Spyderlovers. She isn't dead yet.
    I am so much more intimated by BUDS than rebuilding a v-twin top-end it is hard to describe.
    This sort of water coming along with fire damage thing is very common. Compared to bringing an ATV that someone sunk in a mud hole back to life... this is do-able.

    I started by removing as much of the surface rust as possible taking special care to avoid debris getting into other parts of the engine.
    My process for this type of thing involves getting rid of as much damage as possible before ever moving the cylinder within the bore.

    There are many chemical solutions to rust removal but for this application I prefer Loctite's product "Naval Jelly"
    Brush on liberally, cover with plastic and place out of the sun. Usually wait about 10-15 minutes and then go and brush it again followed by a few hours of waiting. The longer you can wait the better essentially but the product will dry out in most conditions. You want to remove it before drying or hardening. Semi-concentrated Phosphoric Acid (The stuff in Coca-Cola) is the active ingredient. It will usually not damage the surface and is a great solution for removing light rust. This application is way over its general capabilities but helps with my process.

    Next steps will be to fully disassemble the head and get everything cleaned up again. Valves need to be lightly resurfaced (lapped) due to likely pitting on the seats but the process is actually quite easy (all things considered) Cylinders will likely need a light hone and pistons will likely need new rings. This would come along with needing top end gaskets all around but not much more. Top end engine work is generally way more intimating before jumping on in. Timing an engine is as simple as following instructions and lining up some marks. The head did have a light wash in the parts washer if you were wondering why it looks different between photos.

    Thank you for looking!

    20201016_110248_HDR.jpg 20201016_110252.jpg
    20201016_110145.jpg 20201016_110220.jpg
    20201016_121418.jpg 20201016_121459.jpg packshot-front-teaser-us-loctite-navaljelly-rustdissolver-16oz-teaser-1280x1280.jpg

  11. #36
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    9,767
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    This is beginning to become quite interesting! Not that I would ever want to tackle something like this. The expected transformation is striking!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  12. #37
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    This is beginning to become quite interesting! Not that I would ever want to tackle something like this. The expected transformation is striking!
    Thank you for looking and for the comment!

    So here it is a few hours later and the Jelly treatment is done.
    As said earlier I was asking more from the product than it was intended for but it did a great job either way. It accomplished my goal of eliminating some of the damage prior to more disassembly.

    First pictures are of the head after treatment. As you can see the valves are still caked in some rust.
    It will be fully disassembled and serviced as mentioned earlier.

    Next you will see the piston after treatment. Looks great in comparison but as you will see in the next pictures there is still more under the surface.
    The next pictures show the empty cylinder before cleaning. Note the horizontal line where the piston was resting and some light staining on the bore. Also note the factory crosshatching and no signs of vertical scoring. The low mileage part seems to check out. That or it was rebuilt once already.

    Lastly you can see the cylinder and bore after light cleaning. These parts are soon headed to the machine shop. My local shop is able to lightly hone the bore, resurface anything (if needed), blast the outside (to restore new cosmetic condition) and return to me cleaned (and dipped in anti-corrosion solution) parts for a very reasonable price.

    Edit: Added a picture to show the juxtaposition between parts after cleaning and parts that were not cleaned. (Fuel pump)

    20201016_150937.jpg 20201016_150830.jpg 20201016_150952.jpg
    20201016_150747.jpg 20201016_150732.jpg
    20201016_151156.jpg 20201016_151231.jpg 20201016_152033.jpg 20201016_152048.jpg
    20201016_154251.jpg 20201016_154202.jpg 20201016_154226.jpg

    20201016_175746.jpg
    Last edited by oh400ex; 10-16-2020 at 07:43 PM. Reason: add photo

  13. #38
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central Coast, CA
    Posts
    1,296
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I'm in. I'll be following your journey.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






  14. #39
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    DDO, Montreal Island
    Posts
    1,255
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    When the bore is lightly honed, does the cross hatching get removed and they then re- cross hatch it?
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
    2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc

  15. #40
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oldgoat View Post
    When the bore is lightly honed, does the cross hatching get removed and they then re- cross hatch it?
    The factory cross-hatching usually gets worn away within a certain number of miles. A light hone would be with the intention of removing only what is on the very surface and creates new hatch marks but doesn't really remove the old ones. A little of both to answer your original question. Seeing factory crosshatching with no noticeable spots that appear to be polished in comparison is a good indication of a young and healthy engine.

  16. #41
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Seeing this is enough to bring a tear to your eye.
    If you are unsure why or what you are looking at...

    This is a photo showing the bottom end of the engine from the top down. With pistons removed I was able to see down into the crankcase and verify the great condition. Note the oil in the photo... it has not been saturated with water. If what was found was a layer of water separate from the oil layer or if the oil was completely saturated with water... the bottom end would have been destroyed and the "put it back on the road" part of this project would have likely been over. Happy days!

    @ivanlee is an angel sent directly from Spyder heaven to bless me with knowledge and exactly what I needed to complete this project.
    Thank you so much!

    20201017_212652_HDR.jpg

  17. #42
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    51
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Fire damage

    Looks like the engine and suspension parts may be of use for someone with asimilar model, Brakes calipers etc. It dependes what the potential buyer may need. Other option is look for a used Motorcycle recycling company they may give you a few dollars to get it out of your hand. If it was insured them the insurance will keepp it and wholesale it.

  18. #43
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    DDO, Montreal Island
    Posts
    1,255
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oh400ex View Post
    The factory cross-hatching usually gets worn away within a certain number of miles. A light hone would be with the intention of removing only what is on the very surface and creates new hatch marks but doesn't really remove the old ones. A little of both to answer your original question. Seeing factory crosshatching with no noticeable spots that appear to be polished in comparison is a good indication of a young and healthy engine.

    Thanks
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
    2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc

  19. #44
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldtimer51 View Post
    Looks like the engine and suspension parts may be of use for someone with asimilar model, Brakes calipers etc. It dependes what the potential buyer may need. Other option is look for a used Motorcycle recycling company they may give you a few dollars to get it out of your hand. If it was insured them the insurance will keepp it and wholesale it.
    Thank you for the response!

    To clarify... the bike is no longer being parted out and is not currently for sale.

    Thanks to @ivanlee and others I will have the tools and knowledge needed to bring her back to life. Both myself and my wife are interested in riding it and although it will be a while... I plan on taking you all along on the journey of putting it back on the road.

  20. #45
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Just a quick update Spyder folks...

    Here are the pistons after treatment. As you can see, they came pretty clean and are ready for the machine shop.
    A summary of the process is... physical cleaning, ultrasonic bath, LT Naval Jelly, ultrasonic rinse, dip in parts washer and a final treatment with WD.
    The darkening is mostly from heat in the ultrasonic and is temporary. Piston top surface will be bead blasted but everything else will just get a light polish with scotch-brite. I took special care to not damage the rings or ring grooves by using mostly chemical methods to remove corrosion with the exception of brass and plastic brushes. Everything is in reusable condition.

    (WD-40 aka water displacement formula 40 is arguably the best thing for anti-corrosion of engine parts)(They also need to be kept in a plastic bag or similar)

    As some have said, I am pretty much on my own here so all suggestions, thoughts and information is greatly appreciated!

    Thank you for looking!

    20201018_204340_HDR2.jpg 20201018_204402.jpg 20201018_204459_HDR2.jpg

  21. #46
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    9,767
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I don't think you've ever mentioned it, but curiosity is driving me nuts! Did you buy this machine, or were you able to save someone the hassle of disposing of it by taking it off their hands gratis? Of course if you don't want to say that's OK. If you bought it how much did you shell out, if you don't mind! Having an idea of what you've got invested in it will give us a better understanding of your thinking with regard to restoration.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  22. #47
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    I don't think you've ever mentioned it, but curiosity is driving me nuts! Did you buy this machine, or were you able to save someone the hassle of disposing of it by taking it off their hands gratis? Of course if you don't want to say that's OK. If you bought it how much did you shell out, if you don't mind! Having an idea of what you've got invested in it will give us a better understanding of your thinking with regard to restoration.
    That's bad as asking a lady her weight or her age!

    I'm kidding ya!
    I basically did take if off them as I only gave $500 at the end of the day.
    The PO claimed he was ready to junk it as they had been told it would be too much to fix. Allegedly, no insurance or claims of any kind were made on the bike as he was not carrying fire insurance when it occurred. I could see there was more than $500 there so I bought it. My research after the fact has so far confirmed that the bike has not been totaled or stolen. I essentially have no money to put into this project and can only do it like Johnny... one piece at a time.

    The way that I see it... I could have paid 2-5k for this bike and still came out OK. Not that I ever would have been able to but ridable bike for the same money as a used one.

    Thank you for the response!

  23. #48
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    9,767
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Thanks for the response. I think you did the PO a favor. He probably would have been lucky to get $100 at a scrap yard for it. Steel and aluminum prices are in the toilet right now, and have been for some time. Not exactly the same but about 7 years ago I researched buying a wrecked Goldwing trike and taking the conversion off of it and putting it on my 2005 'wing. After looking at all the potential costs and labor and estimating the end market value, I determined I could buy a good used Spyder for $15,000 compared to about $25,000 investment in a 'wing trike. And the Spyder was designed ground up as a 3 wheeler! I opted for the Spyder. I have a pretty good sense, I believe, about your motivation for this project. So CHARGE ON!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  24. #49
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Dayton, Ohio
    Posts
    42
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I'll give you $50 for the handlebar risers.

  25. #50
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Southern, USA
    Posts
    81
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Thanks for the response. I think you did the PO a favor. He probably would have been lucky to get $100 at a scrap yard for it. Steel and aluminum prices are in the toilet right now, and have been for some time. Not exactly the same but about 7 years ago I researched buying a wrecked Goldwing trike and taking the conversion off of it and putting it on my 2005 'wing. After looking at all the potential costs and labor and estimating the end market value, I determined I could buy a good used Spyder for $15,000 compared to about $25,000 investment in a 'wing trike. And the Spyder was designed ground up as a 3 wheeler! I opted for the Spyder. I have a pretty good sense, I believe, about your motivation for this project. So CHARGE ON!
    I would love to make a Goldwing trike. They are arguably the best motorcycle ever made and almost certainly from a cost to options perspective. I can buy used Goldwing non-running for $1000 and get it back to running shape. They are a super cheap option now that so many are out there. Not the trikes though.
    I have considered making an "enduro spyder" as well. Basically take a racing quad and put a motorcycle swingarm on the back. I call a two in front one in back bike "wheeler three" as opposed to the traditional three wheeler design. Did the PO a favor in the crusher context but someone else would have likely swooped in and bought it once at the junkyard. I doubt they would have just crushed it... those scrapyard guys are all savvy to selling parts. They know when to hold and when to fold so to speak. Doing all my own work and having patience to not buy parts from BRP will (hopefully) save a lot of money.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mightyms54 View Post
    I'll give you $50 for the handlebar risers.
    The bike and its components are no longer for sale. I plan to put it on the road again.
    Thank you for your interest!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •