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  1. #1
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW Australia
    Posts
    626
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Suspension Tip - RTL's and perhaps f3 Ltd's with Remote Adjustable Air Shock

    I always, without fail, stop at the level portion of my driveway and wait for the rear suspension on my 2017 RT Ltd to "get itself settled" when heading out for a trip. It only takes 30-60 seconds, and here is why.

    On the weekend I took a mate for a 600 km trip to the border to collect his bike from the officers manning the checkpoint. Prior to the trip I was a little concerned his weight and mine would produce the kind of problems I had in the past with a heavy pillion. He weighs 120 kg, I around 95 kg.

    On day 1 at the top of my driveway I stopped on a level surface, set the suspension via the dash switch with the engine running + in gear + my pillion seated on the back. I gave the compressor time to set the ride height correctly (I actually watch it in the rear view mirror via a reference point on the garage door). On day 2 I repeated this when we left our accommodation for the final run to the border, setting the suspension down one notch, then back to maximum again and waiting 60 or so seconds for it to stabilize. We covered some rough roads, some at higher speeds than I'd like to declare.

    For the entire journey not once did the rear shock bottom out, nor did the frunk "scrape" any humps in the road surface, and the bike handled superbly.

    I preach to my mates that it is worthwhile giving the suspension time to organize itself before riding off with a substantial change in load. When I drop back to just me - I let it settle, when I remove the trailer - I let it settle. I've also learnt that substantial changes in ambient temp warrant doing the same e.g. you stay overnight arriving in 30 degree C temps and rise the next morning to single digit temps for an early departure.

    Tip 2 - if your pillion gets off to close a gate - knock the Spyder out of gear to prevent the rear end adjusting its height again. Chances are like mine, it will begin to vent air from the rear and lower the ride height.

    I discovered this in 2018 after having a 2018 RTL Loner while my '17 was being repaired by the dealership and was impressed how well the self leveling worked on the '18. When I got my '17 back I began to experiment and discovered this process. Adjusting it on the fly is possible but doesn't seem to yield as good an outcome for the rear air bag when compared to stopping and waiting, I guess the sensors and computer have a more difficult time determining what really is "level"

    This applies to those Spyder models with the remotely adjustable air suspension controlled by a switch in the lower dash. It may be a no brainer for some, but very handy for those who have had problems with the rear bottoming out even with their best efforts to avoid it. Try it and see.
    2017 RTL
    2017 RTL , White

  2. #2
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    southwest oHIo
    Posts
    792
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Great tip, thanks.

    I had to read the process for self-leveling and then tested it a bit.
    - The engine has to be running.
    - The transmission has to be in gear.
    - The parking brake has to be off.

    My son and I did the testing at night, where we could shine the headlights across the back yard. Since we both have an "enhanced gravitational attraction" (he is about 21 stone, I am 'only' about 16 stone), we thought it would be a pretty good test. After starting the bike and parking it in a good spot, we chocked the wheels and left it running, in gear, brake off. We then played with the switch to see how much each setting changed the headlight aim, then one of us would stand on one of the passenger floorboards. In just a few seconds, the compressor would kick in, eventually levelling the headlights. The other one would stand on the other passenger board, the process was repeated. As each of us would get off, the air would release in stages, eventually getting to the desired height.

    Since the air basically resets your ride height to keep it constant, I do not agree with Can-Am's labels of "Softer" and "Harder" on the switch. Even if you don't change your load, the ride is no different, only at a different height. Add a load (pillion, cargo, whatever), just enough air is added to restore ride height. The switch should be labelled "Lower" and "Higher". Since air is a wonderful spring, it does not make it any harsher, like a stronger steel coil would. The adjustability of it is why I would love to get rid of the steel coil and go COMPLETELY with an air spring, if only we could guarantee the air supply.

    I like your method of letting it settle first. While under way, it might not have a stable reference point, so it just might not bother trying.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

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