2014 RSS-SE5 Save me from myself-- check engine light

[Timan]

A little history, several days ago I bought the 2014 with a little over 3K miles. It would not idle correctly and had the power of a moped. In a previous post you riders were kind enough to give suggestions. Initially there were no codes or a check engine light. As recommended I did the following:
-checked the airbox and snorkel
-siphoned the old gas
-bypassed the purge valve
After this it would idle correctly.
I took it out for a ride and in less than 2 miles it threw a check engine light and I pulled up the code P0131. Forum member was kind enough to say it was probably front o2 sensor. I ordered one and installed it; no change, still had check engine light and same P0131 code. Here I replaced the fuel filter. I then figured the front one was not the problem so I removed the rear o2 sensor and replaced it with the old front o2 sensor I had removed. I still have the check engine light but no codes. It is raining so can't check to see if power has improved.
My questions:
-Will the check engine light reduce power
-Does the dealer have to turn off the check engine light
I hate to put up a long post but this Can Am has been more of a headache than all the previous bikes I've owned combined and I must admit I'm lost. It didn't help when I went to the local dealer to pick up the o2 sensor and he asked me why I would ever by a Can Am Spyder! He's also a multi manufacturer dealer. I read the forum rules, so I waited to post until my language would be PG.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

A little history, several days ago I bought the 2014 with a little over 3K miles. It would not idle correctly and had the power of a moped. In a previous post you riders were kind enough to give suggestions. Initially there were no codes or a check engine light. As recommended I did the following:
-checked the airbox and snorkel
-siphoned the old gas
-bypassed the purge valve
After this it would idle correctly.
I took it out for a ride and in less than 2 miles it threw a check engine light and I pulled up the code P0131. Forum member was kind enough to say it was probably front o2 sensor. I ordered one and installed it; no change, still had check engine light and same P0131 code. Here I replaced the fuel filter. I then figured the front one was not the problem so I removed the rear o2 sensor and replaced it with the old front o2 sensor I had removed. I still have the check engine light but no codes. It is raining so can't check to see if power has improved.
My questions:
-Will the check engine light reduce power
-Does the dealer have to turn off the check engine light
I hate to put up a long post but this Can Am has been more of a headache than all the previous bikes I've owned combined and I must admit I'm lost. It didn't help when I went to the local dealer to pick up the o2 sensor and he asked me why I would ever by a Can Am Spyder! He's also a multi manufacturer dealer. I read the forum rules, so I waited to post until my language would be PG.

" check engine light " will not effect power ... ...... if it shows " limp mode " that will effect power ..... As I recall the two most prominent " driveability issues " ... were OLD vacuum hoses to the throttle body ( micro-cracks you can't see ) .... and ...oh crap old age brain fart .... I'll post #2, if I can think of it again ..... sorry .... Mike

[CarolinaSpyderRyder]

This sounds like limp home mode, The vacuum lines would probably throw that code, but not cause the power loss.

[trikermutha]

P0131 ECM HO2S signal too low voltage Defective O2 sensor, damaged circuit wires, damaged ECM output pins. Fuel pressure too low Note: P0130 may appear also for the same reason Disconnect HO2S1. Disconnect ECM-B. Measure resistance between harness connector HO2S1-B and ground (expected value > open). Measure resistance from harness connector: HO2S1-B to ECMB-D2 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between harness connector HO2S1-A and ground (expected value > open). Measure resistance from harness connector: HO2S1-A to ECMB-J1 (expected value: < 2 ohms).

[Timan]

I forgot to mention I also replaced the two vacuum lines first thing when it would not idle smoothly. There wasn't any cracks, but figured it's easy enough to do. It's my understanding that once you repair what caused the code the code disappears from the screen, this has happened. Can I make the check engine light(s) go away or is a trip to dealership in my future? Thanks again for all the help. Once again I apologize for being so negative, but please understand I'm an old rider with over 300,000 miles on BMW Airheads where at about 50K miles you replaced the rotor and possibly steering head bearings and you just rode.

[trikermutha]

Pull the battery cables and let sit awhile. See what happens? Can't hurt it anymore.

[Timan]

Will do. Thanks

[Timan]

The saga continues! I took the Spyder to the dealer and they cleared the check engine light. They told me that to take it out and ride about 20 miles or so for the computer to reset. At about 3 miles the Spyder had reached operating temp. it started to do the occasional pop through exhaust again. In couple more miles I came up on a stop sign. I smelled plastic and looked down; the black plastic around the catalytic converter was pretty much melted away. The left side painted tupperware was blistered from the front cylinder header pipe.
I'm open to any ideas.

[Ready2Retire]

Just going by my automotive experience here, so this will be more generic than Spyder specific. Judging from the code and your symptoms it sounds like you have an excessively lean condition. The simple things that contribute to this is too much air or too little fuel. Too much air comes from bad vacuum lines (you already replaced but make sure one didn't fall off), leaking intake, those kind of things. Too little fuel can come from bad/partly plugged injectors, low fuel pump pressure, bad fuel, plugged fuel filter.

A lean condition can cause an O2 sensor code because it tells the ECM the combustion is too lean. The ECM compensates by metering more fuel. If that doesn't cure the lean condition, the ECM continues to adds more fuel until it can no longer do so. At that point the ECM thinks the O2 sensor must be bad and throws a code. Having said all that, if the lean condition is due to a fueling issue, that needs to be narrowed down and fixed. Also noteworthy, a lean condition does cause excessive heat which is why your plastic was melting.

You stated the Spyder is a 2014 with 3k miles. Looks like the PO let it sit a lot! The fuel system may just be varnished up and need cleaning. You might try running an injector cleaner through the gas tank and run it to see if that will clear it up. Seafoam is my go to but there are others.

I'm sure others with more specific Spyder experience will chime in, but i hope that helps.

John

[Timan]

Today I pulled the plugs, the front one is about much fun as I could stand. The rear cylinder is running very lean, the front is running very rich. I ordered plugs and wires from Bajaron, but will be surprised if that's the issue. But I really don't want to button this thing up w/o doing while I'm there. Can the part where you attach the vacuum hoses force this condition? If any of you have experienced this condition, please chime in.

[Michael211_2000]

Have you put any treatment at all in the fuel tank? Seafoam, B12, anything? Give the tank a strong dose of your favorite fuel system cleaner and let it sit and run for awhile then go ride it around the block! With so few miles on it after 6 years mostly sitting the fuel likely turned to crap and it's fouled the injectors.... which would explain A LOT of the bike's issues! Whenever my 2012 is going to be sitting for awhile I always put Marine Stabil in the tank and go for a short ride to get it all thru the injection system then i park it like that.

[Ready2Retire]

Today I pulled the plugs, the front one is about much fun as I could stand. The rear cylinder is running very lean, the front is running very rich. I ordered plugs and wires from Bajaron, but will be surprised if that's the issue. But I really don't want to button this thing up w/o doing while I'm there. Can the part where you attach the vacuum hoses force this condition? If any of you have experienced this condition, please chime in.

Sounds like you've narrowed the issue down to the rear injector. I'm speculating that the ECM detected a lean condition and metered more fuel. The front injector responded which is why it's running rich, but the rear did not respond and is still lean. Again, you might try running some Seafoam, or Berryman's B12 is also a good product. If you do end up replacing the injector, best practice is to always replace the set, not just the one. This prevents a cylinder imbalance caused by differing fuel flow.

John

[Timan]

To add to the situation, ohm resistance on the rear (lean cylinder) plug wire is >3,700. The front wire (rich cylinder) is >6700. It's above my pay grade as to whether this is reasonable based on length of wire or some other factor. As to the Seafoam, I was trying to ride a few miles after I had added that to the fresh premium gas when it got so hot that it melted the plastic next to the catalytic converter and blistered the painted plastic on the left side. Bright side of the situation; I have all winter to replace parts and after all the bikes I've owned I have finally found one more troublesome than Ducati's. Thanks for the input from you riders and keep the ideas coming, my next SS check comes in a few days.