OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.
The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.
35 lbs. psi ....28 lbs. psi ..... An auto tire , any auto tire only needs 18psi in an RT Spyder, a Ryker needs a little less ..... Auto tires are NOT Crapenda's ..... IMHO 17-18 psi will be a whole lot better, try it you should be pleasantly surprised ...... Mike
OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.
The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.
35 lbs. psi ....28 lbs. psi ..... An auto tire , any auto tire only needs 18psi in an RT Spyder, a Ryker needs a little less ..... Auto tires are NOT Crapenda's ..... IMHO 17-18 psi will be a whole lot better, try it you should be pleasantly surprised ...... Mike
I don't know about 18 psi. Not saying it's wrong. Just saying it sounds low and I haven't tried it. But we can certainly agree that 35 psi is WAY TOO much for the rear tire on a Spyder. Probably won't hurt anything. But you'd better double up on your denture-cream!
Ok, just got back from about 240 miles on the Dunlop at 25 pounds. Much improved over 35 pounds. No issues at all. Rides just fine. Side benefit: Considerable mileage improvement. Got 180 miles out of one tank w 8 tenths of a gallon left. That's better than a poke in the eye!
Ok, just got back from about 240 miles on the Dunlop at 25 pounds. Much improved over 35 pounds. No issues at all. Rides just fine. Side benefit: Considerable mileage improvement. Got 180 miles out of one tank w 8 tenths of a gallon left. That's better than a poke in the eye!
... Since you are Open minded about this just try 18 psi., I think you will be pleasantly surprised. There is a lot of " Tire Science " , behind this amount and I'm sure Peter Aawen will write at least 500 words explaining it, He can and does looooooooooooooove to type. .... me not so much. .... I will type this tho, " tire air pressure " is part of the " over-all " suspension system of ANY vehicle. It directly relates to performance, wet or dry roads annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd the level of Comfort you get. good luck .... Mike ....PS I get a couple of PM's a week asking about tires.
I don't know about 18 psi. Not saying it's wrong. Just saying it sounds low and I haven't tried it. But we can certainly agree that 35 psi is WAY TOO much for the rear tire on a Spyder. Probably won't hurt anything. But you'd better double up on your denture-cream!
Ron, I'm very Glad you don't like " 35 psi " ..... however I'm very curious why you don't think " 18 psi " should be used ( actually I was afraid to suggest 15 psi, which is what Peter might suggest ). Thanks for your reply ..... Mike
Ron, I'm very Glad you don't like " 35 psi " ..... however I'm very curious why you don't think " 18 psi " should be used ( actually I was afraid to suggest 15 psi, which is what Peter might suggest ). Thanks for your reply ..... Mike
What would be a good balance, speaking PSI, between comfort and even tread wear?
I use a TOYO 16" since 16.000 miles and its still OK - got a paper from them that I can use it on my Ryker 900 (we need this here in Europe)
they said I should use with 30 PSI (2 bars) !
Outlander fairing - Fox-shock - BajaRon Swaybar - Hankook tire/ back - 165/50 Imperial tires front & longer front shocks - GIVI Topase - Shad sidecases -heated grips - new seats
I use a TOYO 16" since 16.000 miles and its still OK - got a paper from them that I can use it on my Ryker 900 (we need this here in Europe)
they said I should use with 30 PSI (2 bars) !
30 psi., that is what I would use in a vehicle that weighed ..... 3000 +/- lbs...... on a vehicle that weighed 700lbs ( like a Ryker ) traction will be less and it will ride like it was filled with cement. ............ Mike
30 psi., that is what I would use in a vehicle that weighed ..... 3000 +/- lbs...... on a vehicle that weighed 700lbs ( like a Ryker ) traction will be less and it will ride like it was filled with cement. ............ Mike
Hi Mike .. plan to change the tire for the next season, so on my last Trips I will go down with the pressure, maybe its really more comfortable ..keep you informed
Outlander fairing - Fox-shock - BajaRon Swaybar - Hankook tire/ back - 165/50 Imperial tires front & longer front shocks - GIVI Topase - Shad sidecases -heated grips - new seats
Hi Mike .. plan to change the tire for the next season, so on my last Trips I will go down with the pressure, maybe its really more comfortable ..keep you informed
" maybe " ..... most folks don't realize that the Tires are part of the suspension, tires that are much harder due to higher PSI's are not going to FLEX as much .... a lightweight vehicle like a Ryker or Spyder, it's going to be much more so. There have been hundreds of folks here who switched to Auto tires and complained about the Harsh ride, until they lowered their PSI ( from OEM Kenda's ) to what Peter Aawen and I have recommended. .... good luck .... Mike
OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.
The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.
When you got the new tire mounted and balanced was it necessary to remove the brake rotor from the wheel? I just watched a youtube video where the owner did just that. It didn;t seem necessary and looked like a bunch of trouble
You don't need to remove the rotor to get it off the bike. When the axle is removed, the caliper will lift out of the way, allowing everything to come out.
Caliper bolts (15 mm head) are accessible by socket, with fender support cover in place.
Bolts remain in place after clearing caliper mount plate, to continue to support fender.
It did not seem that removing the rotor was related to wheel removal from the axle; rotor removal was done after the wheel was removed. Rather it appeared to be done prior to tire exchange and balance of the wheel. The video did not explain the reason for rotor removal just the difficulty on re-mounting the rotor to the wheel after tire exchange. I was perplexed too.
Regarding rear wheel/tire:
Local dealer, who will mount Can-Am tires for free, stated that rotor removal was not necessary.
If mounted at a automotive tire store, it might save them damaging the rotor.
It did not seem that removing the rotor was related to wheel removal from the axle; rotor removal was done after the wheel was removed. Rather it appeared to be done prior to tire exchange and balance of the wheel. The video did not explain the reason for rotor removal just the difficulty on re-mounting the rotor to the wheel after tire exchange. I was perplexed too.
Dunno about people doing this job for themselves, but I've seen quite a few 'professional tire technicians' do the same generally needless disc removal thing...
Because the disc rotor stands out on the hub beyond the rim, many operators are 'scared' that their tire removal/refit machine will either be impeded by the rotor, or the machine's arms will hit & maybe damage the rotor, so they take it off. That's maybe not surprising, after all, they are being careful not to mark up &/or damage your rims, and besides, every other car rim they work on DOESN'T have the rotor bolted to the rim hub, so it's an obvious conclusion - operator thinks "Ooooh, there's a rim bolted to the hub??! Gotta take that off so the rim is naked just like everything else I work on!!" However, if they actually LOOKED at how their machines work, and thought about it for a liddle bit, it should be fairly clear that with some care and the disc mounted side of the rim facing UP (or OUT, depending upon their machine. ) that the disc won't be in the way for the removal/refitting of the tire, because the machine works on & outside the bead edge of the rim itself - there are very few modern machines that still have arms that use a shaft thru the hub centre to provide leverage.
Still, then there's the 'balancing' to take into account, and again, most 'general automotive' rims don't get balanced with the disc in place (there are a few 'high performance' exceptions, & a couple of other 'oddities' ) - so the obvious 'first thought' of that highly trained tire tech is to 'remove the disc'..... but then they find the bearings inside the hub & the small dia axle shaft hole, and realise they don't have the 'right' sized flanges for their balancing machines anyway! So THAT's when they tell you they can't balance the wheel, and they just keep schtum about how taking the disc off was not necessary and actually a bit pointless right from the outset!!
I replaced the rear tire on my Rally model today; a new tire for the new year. This is what I used. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Forceum-H...Tire/596072591. My local independent tire shop was nonplussed about the mounted disc but were careful.
For the record - the disc is actually tucked within the rim by about 1.5". If you lay the rim flat on the ground with the disc down (even without a tire) there is no way the disc can touch. Once I had the wheel off the bike and could see the position of the disc I was much less concerned about it being damaged. I did remember to take the conical washer with me so that the wheel could be fitted to an automotive spin balancer. It only took about 1 oz. to balance compared to 4 oz. on the Kenda.
I am currently running it at 20 psi and will evaluate.
Last edited by Tslepebull; 01-12-2021 at 02:26 PM.
Reason: clarity
Originally Posted by RykerUSA
....28 lbs. psi
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However, if they actually LOOKED at how their machines work, and thought about it for a liddle bit, it should be fairly clear that with some care and the disc mounted side of the rim facing UP (or OUT, depending upon their machine. 
) that the disc won't be in the way for the removal/refitting of the tire, because the machine works on & outside the bead edge of the rim itself - there are very few modern machines that still have arms that use a shaft thru the hub centre to provide leverage. 
So THAT's when they tell you they can't balance the wheel, and they just keep schtum about how taking the disc off was not necessary and actually a bit pointless right from the outset!! 
