Well, I have 21,000 miles on my Ryker Rally and it is time to start thinking about rear tire replacement. Any recommendations other than OEM?
Sorry no OEM info. But it is good to see something positive with Kenda tires for a change. I've had no problems with mine. I probably only "peeled out" about 4 times now with about 8,000 miles on mine, BUT they were just quick short chirps. My dealer looked at my rear tire and said that probably reflects on how the CVT belt is holding up also. I'm hoping for at least 15,000 miles with both rear tire and belt.
some use the 205-50-R15 Version instead of the 205-55-R15 ..still working with the VSS and more different tires available on the market .. you could use a normal "street-tire" - better brakes and more grip !
Outlander fairing - Fox-shock - BajaRon Swaybar - Hankook tire/ back - 165/50 Imperial tires front & longer front shocks - GIVI Topase - Shad sidecases -heated grips - new seats
Could you provide a photo of your tread with 21K miles? I have only about 7K miles on my Rally and I am down to the rain "wear Bars" if I am reading it correctly. If I am interpreting something wrong I would like to know.
Amazon has the Kumho Ecsta 4X II Performance Radial Tire -205/55R15 88V for $85.91
AKA Jud Smales, Four Year Spyder Ryder! "Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati"
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Rear tire is about at 5/32nds. So, as I said, it probably has a couple 1,000 miles yet to go. See photo.
I do ride fairly aggressively but I do not do burn outs. (until just recently as I know I'm going to have to replace this tire ).
Front tires look fantastic. I would say that I probly have another 10,000 miles or more on them.
I decided to go with the Dunlop Direzza DZ102. Ordered it last night. See picture attached.
Regarding my experience, I am thrilled with my Rally -although I have had new model issues.
Under warranty, I had to replace that final drive due to an oil leak and had my exhaust manifold gasket replaced as the manifold vibrated loose and apparently damage the gasket. Other people of had these same issues.
The problem I had that caused me the greatest headache was that my fuel pump went out slowly over time. Like others, I got the high pitched whine but after that, I found that when I had less than a 1/2 a tank of gas and was traveling at highway speed, I lost throttle response when trying to accelerate. If I filled up the tank, the problem went away. The good news was that this went on for several tanks; so, I had plenty of warning so that I could get home and dig into the problem.
I called BRP and they said it was the fuel pump but it was on back order and a significant back order. So I didn't want to lose the use of my trike for several months; so, I dug into the problem myself taking out the fuel pump assembly and trying to guess that right fuel pump to purchase to replace the actual pump that was in the assembly. BRP only sells the assembly and not just the pump and the whole assembly was on back order for several months. In any case, on the 1st try, I was able to guess the right pump to purchase. See my previous posts on this topic if you have interests. I replaced the pump and everything has been fine since except I do still periodically get the fuel pump whine. This must be a vibration within the fuel pump assembly as I find it hard to believe that both pumps themselves produced the whine. It must be how the pump sits in the assembly and with vibration possibly creating the whine.
Fairly early on, I also hit a pothole that through my Handlebars off center.That was an easy fix and I did it myself. Repair manual gives you the details.
That's basically it.
As I said, I am thrilled with this trike. I actually traded down from a Spyder ST Limited and I am thrilled with the decision. The Ryker is A-blast to ride and it is fantastic in the twisties. I have even taken it on long hauls including from Indiana out to Utah as well as other major trips and I have no issues on the interstate cruising along all day long. Love this Tryke!
Rear tire is about at 5/32nds. So, as I said, it probably has a couple 1,000 miles yet to go. See photo.
Wow, the roads in Indiana must not be anywhere near as abrasive as the chip seal abominations we have here in Texas. At 7,000 miles I am down to 6/32nds and I do not expect to make 10,000 miles. I will be interested to hear how you like the Dunlop.
Rear tire is about at 5/32nds. So, as I said, it probably has a couple 1,000 miles yet to go. See photo.
I do ride fairly aggressively but I do not do burn outs. (until just recently as I know I'm going to have to replace this tire ).
Front tires look fantastic. I would say that I probly have another 10,000 miles or more on them.
I decided to go with the Dunlop Direzza DZ102. Ordered it last night. See picture attached.
Regarding my experience, I am thrilled with my Rally -although I have had new model issues.
Under warranty, I had to replace that final drive due to an oil leak and had my exhaust manifold gasket replaced as the manifold vibrated loose and apparently damage the gasket. Other people of had these same issues.
The problem I had that caused me the greatest headache was that my fuel pump went out slowly over time. Like others, I got the high pitched whine but after that, I found that when I had less than a 1/2 a tank of gas and was traveling at highway speed, I lost throttle response when trying to accelerate. If I filled up the tank, the problem went away. The good news was that this went on for several tanks; so, I had plenty of warning so that I could get home and dig into the problem.
I called BRP and they said it was the fuel pump but it was on back order and a significant back order. So I didn't want to lose the use of my trike for several months; so, I dug into the problem myself taking out the fuel pump assembly and trying to guess that right fuel pump to purchase to replace the actual pump that was in the assembly. BRP only sells the assembly and not just the pump and the whole assembly was on back order for several months. In any case, on the 1st try, I was able to guess the right pump to purchase. See my previous posts on this topic if you have interests. I replaced the pump and everything has been fine since except I do still periodically get the fuel pump whine. This must be a vibration within the fuel pump assembly as I find it hard to believe that both pumps themselves produced the whine. It must be how the pump sits in the assembly and with vibration possibly creating the whine.
Fairly early on, I also hit a pothole that through my Handlebars off center.That was an easy fix and I did it myself. Repair manual gives you the details.
That's basically it.
As I said, I am thrilled with this trike. I actually traded down from a Spyder ST Limited and I am thrilled with the decision. The Ryker is A-blast to ride and it is fantastic in the twisties. I have even taken it on long hauls including from Indiana out to Utah as well as other major trips and I have no issues on the interstate cruising along all day long. Love this Tryke!
Thanks, a lot of good info there. That Dunlop tire looks good, I saved that for future reference when needed. Not a lot of quality tire options out there as of yet.
Forgot to mention the belt. At about 11,200 miles, I got the transmission service warning on my screen. Replaced belt myself. Old belt looked quite good. Looked like it could have gone thousands of more miles.
And I had one more issue that I didn't mention above that I previously posted on this forum. I had belt slippage do to a dirty CVT filter. CVT pulls a ton of air, so keep an eye on that filter as oem will need replaced often. I eventually bought a K&N and clean it with each oil change.
Forgot to mention the belt. At about 11,200 miles, I got the transmission service warning on my screen. Replaced belt myself. Old belt looked quite good. Looked like it could have gone thousands of more miles.
And I had one more issue that I didn't mention above that I previously posted on this forum. I had belt slippage do to a dirty CVT filter. CVT pulls a ton of air, so keep an eye on that filter as oem will need replaced often. I eventually bought a K&N and clean it with each oil change.
Did you do any service on the clutches, like you would on a snowmobile? There must of been a lot of belt dust and what not in there wasn't there?
The pullies look just fine. There actually was very little dirt/dust in the CVT casing. I believe BRP was covering their butts when recommending a bell change in only 12000 miles. From the looks of my old belt including wear measurements, I would think it would have gone 20000 miles.
The police look just fine. There actually was very little dirt/dust in the CVT casing. I believe BRP was covering their butts when recommending a bell change in only 12000 miles. From the looks of my old belt including wear measurements, I would think it would have gone 20000 miles.
I had mine replaced at 12000 miles, light came on at 11k. I feel a pretty big difference in acceleration and overall drivability, so I'm sure the belt was relatively worn, but like you said probably could have gotten more out of it but for how little this machine costs to maintain, it's not a big deal.
Please do report on that rear tire. I've burned up my tire real good and probably going to stick with OEM because of how finicky the VSS is..
I had mine replaced at 12000 miles, light came on at 11k. I feel a pretty big difference in acceleration and overall drivability, so I'm sure the belt was relatively worn, but like you said probably could have gotten more out of it but for how little this machine costs to maintain, it's not a big deal.
Please do report on that rear tire. I've burned up my tire real good and probably going to stick with OEM because of how finicky the VSS is..
In reality the VSS is not that sensitive ...... definitely not for what you are concerned with .... same goes for the ABS part of the system .In the past 11 years no one has mounted any size tire ( on a stock spyder with an OEM swingarm ) that will trigger the wheel sensors, There is a limited amount of tire sizes that will fit the suspension and fenders ..... Mike
All of my wear bars are flush with the tread but I have 5/32nds of tread left. That's a bit frustrating that, according to the manual, I have to replace my tire with 5/32nds left.
All of my wear bars are flush with the tread but I have 5/32nds of tread left. That's a bit frustrating that, according to the manual, I have to replace my tire with 5/32nds left.
Are you sure you're looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars, and not at the 'Tread Block Stabilisation' bars?? Look to the sides of the tread - if you are running the OE Spec Kendas, there will be a little triangle embossed upon the edge of the tread pointing at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars.... if you can't find a triangle on each side of the tread pointing at those bars, you are NOT looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicators'!!
The other bars are there to stabilise the tread blocks on either side of the deep tread grooves and to force any water/ice/slush that may get trapped in those grooves to 'break out' of the groove as the tire rotates and help clear the grooves for the next revolution.... and they will generally become flush with the rest of the tread surface about 2/32nds BEFORE the Tread Wear Indicator bars wear flush.... but the Tread Block Stabilisation bars WON'T have those little triangles pointing at them!
Are you sure you're looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars, and not at the 'Tread Block Stabilisation' bars?? Look to the sides of the tread - if you are running the OE Spec Kendas, there will be a little triangle embossed upon the edge of the tread pointing at the 'Tread Wear Indicator' bars.... if you can't find a triangle on each side of the tread pointing at those bars, you are NOT looking at the 'Tread Wear Indicators'!!
The other bars are there to stabilise the tread blocks on either side of the deep tread grooves and to force any water/ice/slush that may get trapped in those grooves to 'break out' of the groove as the tire rotates and help clear the grooves for the next revolution.... and they will generally become flush with the rest of the tread surface about 2/32nds BEFORE the Tread Wear Indicator bars wear flush.... but the Tread Block Stabilisation bars WON'T have those little triangles pointing at them!
Thanks for the lesson, I havent even finnished the morning coffee and allready learnt something. Good start of the week
OK, I have the new Dunlop installed. Took it out yesterday for spin. I had it aired up to 35 pounds and took it out on the interstate. It seemed to be a little more jerky than oem but it was fairly windy. So the jury is still out. I have dropped the air pressure 28 pounds and will be taking it out again today.
The tire looks great on the trike and fits just fine. No impact on stability system to date.
Rear tire replacement time
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Originally Posted by RykerUSA
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