Time for an oil & filter change - how best to raise my Spyder?

[carsong]

I'm about 1000 away from the 9,300 mile oil change. With a trip to the mountains coming up next month, I don't know if I should change it before or after. At any rate, the dealer charged me $250 for my 3,000 mile change. I ordered an oil change kit, thinking to save $150 in labor. I've always changed the oil on my bikes, in the past. My only worry is how to raise the Spyder in order to get to the drain plugs, while sitting level. Any suggestions?

[Bensonoid]

This is how I do my RT, the higher I can get it the better, but don't forget to set the park brake.

[Gwolf]

I just run the front tires up on some low ramps and put a scissor platform jack under the rear lower shock braces. It takes about 10 minutes to get it up level and pull the plugs. Takes a while longer to pull the tupperware off and change the filter, but not that long. I go through the entire checklist for service on every oil change.

[JayBros]

I just run the front tires up on some low ramps and put a scissor platform jack under the rear lower shock braces...

I agree with the car ramp method and I don't even bother raising the rear wheel level; been doing it every change since the dealership did the 3K service. The crankcase and clutch cover plugs are on the rearward side of the engine so all the oil that needs to drain out will. I proved it to myself with the first change; added 5.0 qt and with the engine oil at normal operating temperature, two cycles of the cooling fans, the oil was right where it was supposed to be, at the Min mark on the dip stick. Six or so additional oz and it's right where I like it, midway between Min and Max marks.

[EdMat]

Car ramps work great, but instead of pulling up on them, back onto them. That leaves the ramp part totally out of the way.

[RICZ]

Luckily, my driveway slopes upward from the garage. Here's what I do............and the bike is level!

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[Mikey]

I back up the ramps and put my floor jack under the back get it high enough to put my safety stand under it!!

[trikermutha]

I just put my floor jack under the center frame and lift enough to get to the drain plugs. And keeps it level. Wheels are still touching the ground. Can use blocks to aid in your safety in case jack drops.

[Wildrice]

I just put my floor jack under the center frame and lift enough to get to the drain plugs. And keeps it level. Wheels are still touching the ground. Can use blocks to aid in your safety in case jack drops.

What is the benefit of keeping the Spyder level if the drain plugs are in the rear of the engine & trans?

[stmike 1800]

Not tying to be a smart azz but this is how i lift my spyder .I do some work on the side to help pay for the lift.

[Mikey]

YOU DOG!!!! I wish you were next door to me!!!!!!!

[Terrance]

Not tying to be a smart azz but this is how i lift my spyder .I do some work on the side to help pay for the lift.

Living the dream....

[Possible]

Car ramps work great, but instead of pulling up on them, back onto them. That leaves the ramp part totally out of the way.

That's the way I did it today, and it works a treat. I did have to make a couple runs at the ramps, since the rear tire started to spin when the Spyder was part
way up the ramp.

[Gwolf]

Ramps I have are not in the way when pulling on them forward.

[volksbugusa]

Big Blue...never a worry....height potential is awesome....109694105_10218173035422901_7983420564125155319_o.jpg

[bikerbillone]

What is the benefit of keeping the Spyder level if the drain plugs are in the rear of the engine & trans?

Good question...

[ChicagoSpyder]

I don't raise my F3 when changing the oil, I use a round pan that is about 5" tall.

[troop]

Last fall, I changed my oil with the bike level, and used a pan as shown above. This year I'm gonna use ramps. Just makes oil bolt access that much easier..

[trikermutha]

What is the benefit of keeping the Spyder level if the drain plugs are in the rear of the engine & trans?

I prefer to keep it level as when you tilt it like with ramps you may not get all oil and ? out of the drain holes. Some it it might migrate further back. JMO

[osj3]

I dont raise mine. no problem with a low wide oil pain.

[JayBros]

I dont raise mine. no problem with a low wide oil pain.

That's what I use, one pan that catches oil from both drains. Worst part of it though is the lip spout to pour the oil into waste jug leaves a lot to be desired and with 5+qt in it I have to have a careful walk out of the garage where I can pour into the jug.

[Gwolf]

That's what I use, one pan that catches oil from both drains. Worst part of it though is the lip spout to pour the oil into waste jug leaves a lot to be desired and with 5+qt in it I have to have a careful walk out of the garage where I can pour into the jug.

My pan got a pour nozzle on it. Big funnel in a 5 gallon oil bucket and no problem. I bring the waste oil bucket in right side of the bike. It is a lot easier to carry oil in a 5 gallon bucket with a cap on the pour spout, than it is to carry a half full drain pan.

[JayBros]

I have to shop for a better wide pan. I inherited pan and 5 gal disposal container from son when he moved.

[petegtsv10]

I don't raise my F3 when changing the oil, I use a round pan that is about 5" tall.

Same here. Oil change was very easy with F3 on the ground. No issues at all.

[Gwolf]

Just cut the side out of a 5 quart plastic oil bottle and you got a good, low oil drain pan. You can unscrew the cap for the oil bottle and pour the oil into you used oil container. I been using them for years.