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Thread: Rust dust

  1. #76
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Took the Spyder in for the appointment yesterday. Got there at 8:50 for appointment at 9:00. As I was about to back it off the trailer. Service writer came up and said he would take it back to service right away. Went in and made myself a coffee and sat on the big comfy couch. Enjoyed the coffee, plus a second one while using the free wifi to surf the internet on my phone. Then was told it was done. We discussed what was done. They replaced the pulley with a new updated one. I asked if the part number change. He said no. I asked what changed on the pulley and he though something about the spline. Sounded like a guess to me. Asked how it went and was told they had some trouble pulling the old pulley off. Paid the $57.50 deductible. $50 plus the governments' share. Went outside. Spyder was behind the trailer. Loaded it and was driving out of the parking lot at 10:30.

    So it was not a terrible experience.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  2. #77
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    i know i posted on this but seems to be missing i have to ask do you use transmission as a brake or do you let bike shift down to come to stop

  3. #78
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
    i know i posted on this but seems to be missing i have to ask do you use transmission as a brake or do you let bike shift down to come to stop
    You did... Different, but similar thread
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=down+shifting


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  4. #79
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    I am using down shifting not only for slowing to a stop, but also for entering curves, hard acceleration and more.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  5. #80
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    I have 20,000 miles- Put new bolt on at 10,000- Have a new sprocket and bolt ready- Will I ever need it? More to come-

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

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  6. #81
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Today I did an R&R on my front pulley in the name of preventative maintenance. I have on 5K miles on it. It had no play and slid off easily. There was a white grease on the splines, which I suspect was not a moli paste as my paste is grey. Removed the white and applied the grey. All is good.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  7. #82
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    Can ya’ll please help me understand all this ‘fuss’ over the “red dust”? I’ve taken photo after photo into my dealer and showed them what folks are talking about and they tell me that rust on that part is “normal”. But that’s not what I read when folks complain about it. Where is the sprocket by the way (sorry female ryder here and I don’t know all the parts).
    LuLu

  8. #83
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    The pulley is at the front of the drive belt. If you have red dust (rust) that pulley should be removed and examined STAT. If the splines are in perfect shape, clean both splines thoroughly, apply a thin veneer of moli paste (not moli lube) and install a NEW BOLT and torque it to 92 ft/lbs.
    If the pulley's splines are worn to any degree, replace it.
    We're talking a half hour job here, don't let the shop charge for more. If you can't do it, maybe a friend will lend a hand.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  9. #84
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    JMO, but if there's any "red dust" it's too much. Personally I would pull and replace the pulley if there was any red dust
    showing. Absolutely coat the splines good with anti-seize before reassembly.

    Any dealer who tells you that it is normal is full of beans.
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  10. #85
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    lclowe0808, from those I've seen/dealt with here in Oz, that 'Red Dust' is pretty much the most significant & definitive 'Early Warning' indicator for front pulley/spline failures.... if you've got red dust showing, then that pulley & its nut/spline has already effectively failed, altho it maybe just hasn't got quite as far as being undriveable..... YET!

    Ask for an undertaking in writing from your dealer that they'll cover all the recovery & incidental costs associated with that failure when your Spyder becomes undriveable somewhere that it's not easily retrievable &/or it ruins a trip/holiday, cos if they won't do that, then YOU are potentially gonna be up for all those costs when it eventually happens.... and it WILL happen maybe not overnight, but it will happen! (hmm, I seem to recall that from some other context??? Hair maybe?? )

    Or better yet, you could simply find another dealer, preferably someone who's a little pro-active & customer service oriented, instead of your current dealer who's obviously prepared to ignore all the evidence & advice from users AND BRP & wait until the damage becomes worse, possibly making the Spyder undriveable & putting everyone involved to the greatest possible inconvenience!

    Good Luck!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

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  11. #86
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    Why is this sprocket failure far more common on F3's than RT's?

    Same motor, same sprocket, same belt.

    I'm guessing there are more RT's on the road, probably way more miles on them, but you seldom hear of them having a problem.

    Don't make sense to me.
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  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    Why is this sprocket failure far more common on F3's than RT's?

    Same motor, same sprocket, same belt.

    I'm guessing there are more RT's on the road, probably way more miles on them, but you seldom hear of them having a problem.

    Don't make sense to me.
    The problem certainly does exist on RT's but the F3 is a little more sporty so perhaps the drivers are a bit more aggressive causing the sprocket to move a little so starting the wear and the beginning of the failure.

    BTW, 92lb/ft was mentioned earlier in the thread as the tightening torque, iirc this was increased to 111lb/ft. If the original torque is used, look out for a repeat failure.
    Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
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  13. #88
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal View Post
    The problem certainly does exist on RT's but the F3 is a little more sporty so perhaps the drivers are a bit more aggressive causing the sprocket to move a little so starting the wear and the beginning of the failure.
    I for one, certainly do ride my F3 more "spirited" should we say. When I'm riding, 60+ years disappear from my age. Because of that, I keep an eye on that front pulley. I already pulled it and applied moly paste to the splines.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  14. #89
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    Perhaps the motor mounts are different from the other models and allow for more motor movement when torqued. Or the frame flexes
    more than other models?
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  15. #90
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possible View Post
    Perhaps the motor mounts are different from the other models and allow for more motor movement when torqued. Or the frame flexes
    more than other models?
    Is it the motor mounts... or the longer belt??

    Altho the belt length difference is largely a factor of the different sized rear sprockets, so maybe - maybe not! Still, it seems to me that here in Oz, where the majority of our F3's & RT's all run the same sized rear sprocket, this front pulley issue is virtually a non-event!!

    Has anyone got any idea on which model/rear sprocket sized F3's might be experiencing this problem the most?? Just sayin', & throwing it out there..... maybe hoping to promote some further investigation/discussion.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

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  16. #91
    Active Member ssmcclub's Avatar
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    How do you change the front sprocket and add the special grease
    richie spyder

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    Is it the motor mounts... or the longer belt??

    Altho the belt length difference is largely a factor of the different sized rear sprockets, so maybe - maybe not! Still, it seems to me that here in Oz, where the majority of our F3's & RT's all run the same sized rear sprocket, this front pulley issue is virtually a non-event!!

    Has anyone got any idea on which model/rear sprocket sized F3's might be experiencing this problem the most?? Just sayin', & throwing it out there..... maybe hoping to promote some further investigation/discussion.
    Is the total distance from the centerline of both sprockets different on the F3? If the distance is greater, perhaps there is more "whip" with the longer belt. Or do
    they have a belt damper to alleviate that issue?
    Peggy and Howard

    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S SM5

    His: 1999 Honda VFR Interceptor

  18. #93
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    Is it the motor mounts... or the longer belt??

    Altho the belt length difference is largely a factor of the different sized rear sprockets, so maybe - maybe not! Still, it seems to me that here in Oz, where the majority of our F3's & RT's all run the same sized rear sprocket, this front pulley issue is virtually a non-event!!

    Has anyone got any idea on which model/rear sprocket sized F3's might be experiencing this problem the most?? Just sayin', & throwing it out there..... maybe hoping to promote some further investigation/discussion.
    ... definitely something to consider ...... I'm curious as to sprocket failure if you had OEM belt tension vs. those who lowered theirs to like 160-lbs. ......Mike

  19. #94
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssmcclub View Post
    How do you change the front sprocket and add the special grease
    First, buy a new bolt - do not reuse the old one. Have the parking brake set. With a propane torch, heat the bolt head and remove it. Release the parking brake, lift the rear wheel off the floor and while hand rotating it, walk the belt off the rear pulley. Now you can slide the pulley off. Clean the splines of the shaft and pulley really good and apply a thin veneer of moly lube to both splines. Reverse this process to reassemble.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  20. #95
    Active Member CharlieIndia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    First, buy a new bolt - do not reuse the old one. Have the parking brake set. With a propane torch, heat the bolt head and remove it. Release the parking brake, lift the rear wheel off the floor and while hand rotating it, walk the belt off the rear pulley. Now you can slide the pulley off. Clean the splines of the shaft and pulley really good and apply a thin veneer of moly lube to both splines. Reverse this process to reassemble.
    What type of cleaner did you use to clean the splines?

  21. #96
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieIndia View Post
    What type of cleaner did you use to clean the splines?
    I either used contact or brake cleaner.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  22. #97
    Active Member CharlieIndia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    I either used contact or brake cleaner.
    Thanks

  23. #98
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    Pete, I ride my F3T here in W.A. I check the front pulley regularly, (never removed it). I have never found any signs of problems and of all the Spyder owners I know (many) I have never met anyone who has had this problem.

  24. #99
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    I just had mine replaced. What are you're thought on taking it back apart and checking it if it was done correctly. It not a dealer trust issue, it more of my peace of mind issue.

  25. #100
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davewho View Post
    I just had mine replaced. What are you're thought on taking it back apart and checking it if it was done correctly. It not a dealer trust issue, it more of my peace of mind issue.
    Having had a machine repair biz for over 40 years and seeing what other so called professional techs do to ruin things, I do not trust guys with tools and my things. Therefore, I would do the peace of mind thing. I pulled my front pulley for the first time and the lubricant did not appear to be moly paste, but moly lube. And that's what the factory used! So I cleaned it and applied moly paste. Now I have more peace of mind.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

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