The long and the short of it, is that I believe we are all thinking this one a little to hard!!!! To me this is nothing more than a case of shorty quality control like the darn wheel nuts on the F3's!! They got a bad batch of pulleys that didn't get heat treated enough and there you go. Yes they should put some type of never seize or grease, or what ever you want to call it on there, hell I don't put anything back together with out some thing, because I don't want problems taking it apart next time I have to work on it! As far as the bolt well to me 115-120 ft lbs isnt that much for that bolt, if you feel you need to replace it, do it, would I put Loctite on it, yes on that, but I would not put anything stronger than a blue! We all tend to take things to the upper limits, when some times we throw good money over bad for what, nothing!!! This red rust seems to be a fragmented issue, it's scattered all over the place, no rhyme to reason, ether they did install the pulleys the right whey to start with, or they got a bad batch of pulleys! Anyway it's some thing else for us to keep a eye on and maintain, like oil changes, and tire pressures!! Have a good day, I am off my soap box!!! Maybe we can beat this one to four pages!!
The part number for the flange bolt is 705502292. Just ordered mine from my dealer who doesn't keep at least one in stock. When I mentioned why they should, the reply was, we've never seen a spline failure. That's hard to believe.
I was told the part number is 250001017 That is what I just ordered. Is it wrong?
I was told the part number is 250001017 That is what I just ordered. Is it wrong?
I guess we will both find out. I ordered by phone from my dealer and the parts gal looked it up. Fingers crossed.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
To the original poster... If your sprocket is only lightly worn, ie. after cleaning up is slips back onto the shaft nicely with little play then imho it's better to use it rather than fit a replacement. The reason is that the contact surface of the sprocket against the flange of the shaft is small (marginal imo and part of the original issue.). These contact surfaces will be worn because of their movement against each other but on the plus side they are worn into each other and have good contact so will fit well upon tightening.
If using a new sprocket the contact surface with the shaft flange will be smaller because the slightly worn part of the shaft will not make contact with the new sprocket. The new contact area will be smaller diameter and consequently have less surface area to carry the end load. I'm sure BRP have taken this into account because the updated sprocket is machined with a wider contact surface so as to be better usable on a worn shaft and also provide a larger contact area on a new shaft.
Important! Be sure when the sprocket is refitted that the shaft end is sufficiently recessed in the sprocket that the bolt flange cannot come into contact with it when fully tightened.
The output shaft is hardened steel. The sprocket is usually the casualty when you see the red dust.
The output shaft is hardened steel. The sprocket is usually the casualty when you see the red dust.
Exactly as it should be. Those persons insistent upon BRP has a batch of faulty pulleys that were incorrectly heat treated would be super disgusted if hardened pulleys had been installed.
Never researched heat treatment of cast steel, but suspect the pulley is not or is low heat treat capable.
Correctly lubricated is the key. Works well in bearings, transmissions, engines etc. Dry fit dynamic parts never fare well when compared to lubricated parts, unless slippage is a concern.
Too much presumption! The shaft is indeed hardened steel and the sprocket is cast iron.
See the pictures below for the wear on both. You can see the mating lines where both parts are worn together.
Want to add, if a person is removing the pulley to accomplish a wear inspection with intentions to clean and reuse the pulley, painting or somehow placing an index mark so the pulley is installed onto the same mating splines is a good thing.
Prior to removing our pulley years ago for inspection / lube / reinstall, I marked the gearbox shaft and pulley with a very slight index. Forget if I filed or used a small cut off wheel. Reassembly had it all back in the same orientation.
back in 1967 when i went to work at General Electrics Aircraft Engine Division (gas turbines, aka; jet engines), i worked in the engine assembly & test area... on my 1st day in the shop, i noticed PHILLIPS MILK OF MAGNESIA at every assembly work station. being very green and 18, i asked if everyone had health issues... the answer was not what i expected; it was used as a barrier adjoining metal parts to eliminate galling between the two... i'm wondering if maybe we all need to buy our dealers a bottle of this stuff...
Dan
SPYD3R
Exactly as it should be. Those persons insistent upon BRP has a batch of faulty pulleys that were incorrectly heat treated would be super disgusted if hardened pulleys had been installed.
Never researched heat treatment of cast steel, but suspect the pulley is not or is low heat treat capable.
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I'm not too sure about the hardening, the sprocket is cast iron. Cast iron contains so much carbon it has free carbon within its structure. It certainly can be hardened. Have a look at this picture below, zoom in if necessary, it's just been machined and the crystal structure of the metal appears to be modified in the area of the splines.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
Want to add, if a person is removing the pulley to accomplish a wear inspection with intentions to clean and reuse the pulley, painting or somehow placing an index mark so the pulley is installed onto the same mating splines is a good thing.
Yes, the do wear together.
That's a very good point which I forgot to mention. But it'll need to be done with a grinder. I tried centre punching a dot into the shaft, it's so hard the point of the punch flattened and left no mark on the shaft, similarly my scriber would not scratch it.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
I really think everyone knows what to do with a rusty pulley and why they should do it!!! to the master!! come on Don't really think anyone disputing the facts!! But we are close to 4 pages!
MWO (Ret'd) SJ Barnes
‘20 RTL Stone Grey
named Britannia in honour of EE Doc Smith’s
Grey Lensman’s ship.
Farkles:
Bestem Carplay
canamsypderaccessories hitch and wiring harness,
showchrome trunk rack,
12v AND dual USB direct to battery in the frunk,
dual USB switched in the blank console switch spot (parasites the power off the seat heater switch),
frunk lid organizer,
trunk organizer,
showchrome rider backrest,
ryder and passenger cup holders,
ram mount for the iPad mini I use for GPS
quadlock phone mount
Nautilus horn
Data blocker on the glove box USB
Big Bike Parts highway pegs
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Convex mirrors
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frunk organizer
dual horn
Max mount
Rear seat with tall back rest (not mounted)
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Side bag
Top bag
top bag makes a good backrest. Will swap on the rear seat if she ever wants to 2up
I removed front pully on my 18 F3L. Had minimal rust. Put honda m77 assembly paste on after cleaning good. No wear found. Used a new bolt. Also noticed pully had a stamped made in USA.
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Maybe we can beat this one to four pages!!
Originally Posted by RICZ
Ignorance is bliss.
WoW, we are going to make this a 4 page post!!! Come on boy's we can do it!!!!
