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  1. #1
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    Default Need clarification on car tires 2021 RT base

    I ride my '21 RT (base) a little bit on the aggressive side. By "a little bit", I mean, I run out of grip before I run out of fun. I only have about 1200 miles on my bike but I think it might already be time to upgrade to car tires. I need some clarification on a few things before I order tires.

    1) If I only choose to replace 1 set of tires now, would it be best to replace the rear 1st? I'm assuming this would be correct since there's only 1 tire on that end so there's less tread on the ground as opposed to the front.

    2) What is the correct tire size, front and rear?

    I'll have a dealership replace the rear tire. I'm just not qualified to remove that. I'll call around to see if any of the local tire shops will change out the front tires. If so, I'll pull one wheel off at a time and take it to them. If not, it'll go to the dealer.

    HAGO!

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Woodaddict's Avatar
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    i bought front tires thru walmart, and local walmart balanced them and changed them. if you goto dealer without a car tire, they might only put on kenda's. so just buy online, I have the General Altimax rt43. but winston-salem dealer WILL put on any car tires you bring in

    now you have a space,,,,,,,,,,,,,buy low profile jack to get fronts off. put a block on other front to be able to take both. i took off my rear tire. for that you need a 36mm socket and 250lb torque wrench to goto 166lbs

    you can replace either 2 fronts, or the 1 rear in any order
    2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400



  3. #3
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MONK View Post
    I ride my '21 RT (base) a little bit on the aggressive side. By "a little bit", I mean, I run out of grip before I run out of fun. I only have about 1200 miles on my bike but I think it might already be time to upgrade to car tires. I need some clarification on a few things before I order tires.

    1) If I only choose to replace 1 set of tires now, would it be best to replace the rear 1st? I'm assuming this would be correct since there's only 1 tire on that end so there's less tread on the ground as opposed to the front.

    2) What is the correct tire size, front and rear?

    I'll have a dealership replace the rear tire. I'm just not qualified to remove that. I'll call around to see if any of the local tire shops will change out the front tires. If so, I'll pull one wheel off at a time and take it to them. If not, it'll go to the dealer.

    HAGO!
    Check and see if your CAR has a small " scissor jack " ...... use that with a piece of wood under either front " A " arm, jack it up slightly after First loosening the lug nuts.... as already stated most Car tire repair shops can swap the tires, and usually balance them also ..... Change the tire/tires that are MOST worn..... good luck .... Mike

  4. #4
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    I would suggest you replace the fronts first, you'll be amazed at the improvement.
    I rode in to my go to auto shop and they did the whole job of replacing the fronts and it cost me less than $200 total. Including installing longer valves.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodaddict View Post
    ...but winston-salem dealer WILL put on any car tires you bring in

    now you have a space,,,,,,,,,,,,,buy low profile jack to get fronts off. put a block on other front to be able to take both. i took off my rear tire. for that you need a 36mm socket and 250lb torque wrench to goto 166lbs

    you can replace either 2 fronts, or the 1 rear in any order
    They will but they're the ones who want $120 in labor to do so.

    You're right thanks to your help. I'm not touching the rear. The dealer can do that. I'll gladly pay them.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Check and see if your CAR has a small " scissor jack " ...... use that with a piece of wood under either front " A " arm, jack it up slightly after First loosening the lug nuts.... as already stated most Car tire repair shops can swap the tires, and usually balance them also ..... Change the tire/tires that are MOST worn..... good luck .... Mike
    NONE of my tires have ANY wear. I've got about 1200 miles on the bike. They look like they came out of the factory. I don't want to change them because they're worn. I want to change them so I can fly around corners like I'm on rails. Good traction on regular, fairly straight roads and especially if I get caught in the rain would be a plus, too.

    The jack in my car (assuming I have one...I've got less than 3k miles on my 2 year old car thanks to the coronavirus) might work well. Hadn't thought about that. Thanks.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    I would suggest you replace the fronts first, you'll be amazed at the improvement.
    I rode in to my go to auto shop and they did the whole job of replacing the fronts and it cost me less than $200 total. Including installing longer valves.
    You rode the Spyder into the non-spyder shop and they removed the wheels, dismounted/mounted the tires and away you went? Hmmm....never thought to ask a shop if they would do all that.

  8. #8
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    Still need confirmation of the correct sizes, please.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MONK View Post
    Still need confirmation of the correct sizes, please.
    I use 165/60 -15 for the fronts and 205/65 -15 on the rear. That size on the rear corrected my speedo so it now matches my GPS. I have a 2020 RTL
    2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MONK View Post
    Still need confirmation of the correct sizes, please.
    Pg. 146 of your operator's guide.
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  11. #11
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    Not sure if the '21 is that much different for tires than our '17, but I used 175/55 up front and 205/65 on the rear.

    As PW2014STL said, speedo reading is now dead-accurate. Odometer is a little short, but that's OK

    .
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    I do remove the rear wheel here and take to the local tire shop to mount the tire. They will also removed the fronts and mount and balance the new tires. I am 100 miles from the nearest dealer, in rural Central Utah and the dealer wont mount non Kendas anyway. If your dealer wont mount non Kenda's see if you can find a good independent shop that you can teach how to do the rear wheel removal and do the work for you. There are several good youtube videos on how to do it.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member RayBJ's Avatar
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    I had the same experience Monk. The tires were slipping way before my ability to hang on ran out.
    I replaced with the Q-5s all around. 165/60R15 & 205/65R15. Made a world of difference.
    As for which 1st, the one(s) that are slipping the most.
    '20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
    2020 RT base , Chalk White

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    Pg. 146 of your operator's guide.
    I know what the stock sizes are but I don't think V'stein sells their tires in the stock RT sizes.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    ...if you can find a good independent shop that you can teach how to do the rear wheel removal and do the work for you. There are several good youtube videos on how to do it.
    Heh. I don't even know how to remove the rear wheel. I sure wouldn't want to try to explain it to someone else.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    I used all stock sizes and my speedo is only off by about 2 mph at 65 (at the most). I used a Kuhmo for the rear and a Federal 595 EVO 165/55R15. The rear was good, but the fronts were amazing! I paid about $80 for the rear and had them replaced at the dealership. If you have stock rear, I think you will be fine. But the federals were a definite upgrade. I paid $34 each on Ebay and took them off myself with a floor jack. The local tire shop charged me $20 each to mount and balance them. I have 22k on my stock front, and am looking forward to replacing them, but will probably wait until spring.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  17. #17
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MONK View Post
    Heh. I don't even know how to remove the rear wheel. I sure wouldn't want to try to explain it to someone else.
    that's what the You Tube videos are for.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
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  18. #18
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    I can tell you replacing the rear with a Yokohama Advan Fleeva is a significant improvement in traction from the OEM crap.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  19. #19
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    I'd change the fronts out right away. Heck, you have your steering, and most braking distribution, on the front. I have Vredestein 165/60R15's up front, and they are great. Dramatic improvement and very easy R&R. You will like the change.


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