2014 Spyder RS-SE5 idle and running issue

[Timan]

Upfront I apologize for my first post to be question, but will get to introduction post ASAP. Now to my problem; I just purchased the Spyder and it has not been ridden alot. Being a 2014 with only 3500 miles is part of my problem I think. Being an older rider and having owned dozens of bikes I know what happens to one model has usually happened to someone else. The issue is idle is erratic, it can fluctuate from 1100 to 1600 rpm. When starting off it's very sluggish and then comes alive unexpectedly. My first thought was a fouled plug but after trying to follow the procedure in the manual really don't want to dive into that if not necessary. Next idea was mice had built a nest in the airbox, but after checking the design I kind of doubt that. It almost seems like a vacuum leak; this is the reason I'm checking with you riders to see if there's any history with this problem. Tomorrow I will drain all the gas and refill with fresh premium. In the meantime if y'all have any ideas I sure would appreciate it.

[CopperSpyder]

Gas is the best place to start, Change it and then fuel filter. Some people like sea foam in there gas, I use stabile. Run a tank full and see if it still will not idle better. There are two small vacuum lines that go bad and need replacing at the near the bottom of the throttle bodies that will make the Spyder not idle very goods also. I will see if I can find a link to a post on that for you.

Look here at vacuum line post https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ehttp%3A%2F%2F

[ARtraveler]

It looks like Copper Spyder has two very good suggestions to try. I would start with them.

[Timan]

Sure appreciate the suggestions. Just found out I will be out of town for a couple days but will follow up when I figure it out. Thanks again.

[safecracker]

If you still have problems, check the purge valve. This can cause the what you describe. Bruce

[Mikey]

Gas is the best place to start, Change it and then fuel filter. Some people like sea foam in there gas, I use stabile. Run a tank full and see if it still will not idle better. There are two small vacuum lines that go bad and need replacing at the near the bottom of the throttle bodies that will make the Spyder not idle very goods also. I will see if I can find a link to a post on that for you.

Look here at vacuum line post https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ehttp%3A%2F%2F

Did the 2014 have the vac line problems also, thought it was a issue on the twins not the trip's??

[billybovine]

Did the 2014 have the vac line problems also, thought it was a issue on the twins not the trip's??

You are correct this is not an issue with a 2014 RT with a 1330 engine.

Mmmmm. Why did I read it as a RT first time. Opppps

[glennm]

If it is a 2014 RS it will be the twin.

[Mikey]

If it is a 2014 RS it will be the twin.

sorry your right!!!

[Timan]

Wanted to get back to you riders after doing the following: checked air cleaner and snorkel all was good, replaced the two vacuum lines with the NAPA high temp. silicon tubing, disconnected the canister per the forum procedure--do I need to disconnect electrical plug on top or does it matter, also siphoned old gas and replaced with premium non-ethanol. Idle was immediately better so took it for a ride. Now for the bad news. It still chatters off idle when in gear, rode about 2 miles and it started popping almost to the point of backfiring. BTW, this thing won't pull a hen off the nest. Got it home and at idle it was missing/popping. Old saying here in the South; bad beginning makes for a good ending; this beast is going to be the best of over 80 motorcycles I have owned! I'm thinking plugs and wires next. Again, any suggestions will be appreciated. Sorry to be so negative but a 2014 with less than 3500 miles and always stored inside it's hard to understand all these issues.

[CopperSpyder]

Timan have you tried to pull up any codes?

[Timan]

No I haven't, I have a tech manual on the way. Does the dealer have to pull up the codes?

[Snowbelt Spyder]

You weren't that specific about the canister work, so let's just say it this way - No. You DON'T disconnect the electrical plug on top of the purge valve, but you DO plug the open end of the line that used to go from the canister to the purge valve.

Do you have a Check Engine Light on? If so, you have an active code that will certainly help with all of this.

If your RS has a square color display. With the engine running and the CEL on, Press and hold, mode, set and turn signal cancel (turn signal button pushed straight in) at the same time. Same as a RT. Your center display will change and display the active code(s).

[Timan]

Snowbelt Spyder, appreciate stepping me through the the steps to pull up the code. Results were P0131. According to what I could find my issue is possibly the O2 sensor or a connection problem with the ECM. I assume replacing the O2 sensor is easier to deal with. Again, thanks for the help and any info on this code will help. Have a good week.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Snowbelt Spyder, appreciate stepping me through the the steps to pull up the code. Results were P0131. According to what I could find my issue is possibly the O2 sensor or a connection problem with the ECM. I assume replacing the O2 sensor is easier to deal with. Again, thanks for the help and any info on this code will help. Have a good week.

P0131 - front O2 sensor.

Well, you know, I was thinking about that when I read the post. My front O2 sensor failed this spring and it acted much the same way...Same code. Especially the popping and backfiring after about 2 miles. There's a reason for that but it's not that important right now. However, the replacement of the sensor fixed it right up. Before you go forward with the replacement, you could first double check the connector where the sensor harness plugs into the main harness. Unplug it, spray it with contact cleaner and replug, and look for any damage to the harness if you want. Otherwise, replacement is an easy DIY and not that expensive. They come already coated with anti-seize, and if you buy the OEM part, you can be sure that the harness will match up. If you can get the wrench in up there it's easy-peazy. I'm not familiar with how much room you have up there with the RS. Plenty of generic videos on line if you've never done it before.