Warped rotor?

[View from behind]

Thanks to everyone who has replied. Bajaron suggested switching the front rotors and see if the problem moves with the switch. I have switched them and the problem followed, so I will be replacing the rotors with the higher quality EBC rotors and pads.
Thanks again!

[PinkRosePetal]

You will need new rotors but check out the hubs too or you may be in for new rotors again in the same mileage as you've already covered. Could become an expensive service item.
Buy that DTI and check the rotor run-out after you've fitted the new rotors. Remember, 0.004" is maximum, that requires the hub and flange to be accurate and spotlessly clean within approximately 0.0005" - half a thou. The hair on your head (if you have any! ) is about 4 thou so that'll give you an idea of the necessary cleanliness and accuracy required.

[JayBros]

I agree with PRP that if you switched rotors and the problem followed you very well may have a hub problem. I was not aware that there were problems with some hub machining.

[BajaRon]

I agree with PRP that if you switched rotors and the problem followed you very well may have a hub problem. I was not aware that there were problems with some hub machining.

While I agree that there have been some hub clearance problems with some Spyders. I would think that if this were the case, the OP would end up with 2 warped rotors in the swap.

[JayBros]

From PRP's second paragraph in post #25 and the OP switched rotors just to check the second rotor confirmed the problem but was not run long enough to warp the second one. If PRP is correct and the OP is in fact the owner of a poorly machined hub, when EBC rotors are installed the problem will still be there from wheel rotation #1.

[safecracker]

Great discussion folks.

[View from behind]

Just a follow up, replaced both rotors and pads with EBC components and after several thousand miles the problem is totally gone.

[Bottomline2000]

Just a follow up, replaced both rotors and pads with EBC components and after several thousand miles the problem is totally gone.

If the problem appears again its more than likely a caliper issues. I would get it checked while still under warranty and before it destroys new parts. Someone in another group had a similar problem and she had a piston issue in one caliper. Me being a DIYer, I would use an infrared thermometer to check the temp of the rotors after a brief ride and see if there is any abnormal heat build up in either.

[BajaRon]

Just a follow up, replaced both rotors and pads with EBC components and after several thousand miles the problem is totally gone.

This is very good news! One of the most difficult things I have ever attempted is trying to diagnose a Spyder issue over the phone, or on a forum like this. I'm always concerned that I might have missed something or somehow sent the customer off on the wrong path. I am very happy that we got this right the first time. Having good input from the owner goes a long way towards a correct diagnosis and solution. I don't think you'll have any more problems. In my experience, if there is a hub clearance issue, the warpage it creates is immediate. You don't have to wait for it.

[Lew L]

Nobody has mentioned " material transfer". Give the rotors a good sanding and cleaning if not warped by checking on a truly flat glass surface.

[robhowen]

Decades ago I had what sounds like a similar issue with one of my BMW bikes and it ended up being the ABS sensor and it would only occur when I applied the brakes.

Rob

[BajaRon]

Nobody has mentioned " material transfer". Give the rotors a good sanding and cleaning if not warped by checking on a truly flat glass surface.

Material transfer is a legitimate point, and can create the same symptoms as a warped rotor. A dial indicator will record the hump which, if it is a true warpage issue, the opposite side of the rotor should show an equal negative indication. If that is not the case, then it is probably a material transfer issue and not a true warpage problem.

The OEM BRP rotors are more porous than they probably should be. And there may be a fair amount of variation from rotor to rotor. That's hard to say. Just speculation on my part. The problem being that if you are able to successfully remove the hump from the material buildup area. It is likely to return. So, in many cases, it is a temporary fix.

The EBC rotors are much less porous, and of a harder, more warp resistant metallurgy. I have been impressed by the fact that no customer has had a problem with either warpage or material transfer (that I know of) after switching to EBC rotors. And some customers had been through 3 sets of OEM rotors before coming to me. Couple this with the fact that the EBC rotors are less expensive than the OEM. And you really do have a great option to the factory components.

Decades ago I had what sounds like a similar issue with one of my BMW bikes and it ended up being the ABS sensor and it would only occur when I applied the brakes.

Rob

I think this issue is pretty rare. All ABS systems pulse the brakes, when engaged, by design. These pulses are so quick, they are seamless to the rider. But if the ABS computer has an issue, it could engage at a slower pulse rate, giving the impression of a warped rotor. If the ABS system engages when it isn't supposed to, like during a normal braking sequence, that would definitely give the false impression of a warped rotor. Though I certainly don't hear about every issue occurring in all Spyders. I do hear a lot. And I've never heard of this happening with a Spyder. Though, of course, it could.

[PinkRosePetal]

Just a follow up, replaced both rotors and pads with EBC components and after several thousand miles the problem is totally gone.

Would you come back when you've covered perhaps 12-15k miles and let us know how you're getting on? I'd be interested to know as would other folk, I'm sure.

[pegasus1300]

I do have a video of the inaccurate hub issue and its remachining also showing a before and after rotor run-out. Unfortunately Spyderlovers is unable to accept video uploads.

Is it possible for you to post a link to that video? I'm sure may would appreciate it.

[PinkRosePetal]

Is it possible for you to post a link to that video? I'm sure may would appreciate it.

I'm not sure. I made the video to send to my dealer so it's just on my computer. I don't put videos or pictures on any host site. I've actually got three vids of two different Spyders with the same problem. One is a before showing the run-out on the dti and the second is after machining also showing the run-out on one bike. The third is a step by step on the second Spyder checking the disc using the DTI, checking the hub face, dismantling, machining and reassembly followed by a final check of the disc on the DTI.

I can't remember the exact mileages but on one bike it was approx 4k miles with a run-out of about 10thou before machining and 2thou after. The second bike had covered many more miles, I think about 17k, its run-out was also about 10thou which corrected to 4thou but that was including the uneven wear on the disc. My dealer replaced the discs and the bike is at approximately 24k now with no recurring wheel judder.