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  1. #26
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    Refer to the following list for possible causes: – F8 fuse – Battery or connections (refer to CHARGING SYSTEM) – D2 diode – Start button – Engine stop switch – Starter solenoid – Clutch engagement switch (SM6 model) – Gear position sensor (SM6 model) – D.E.S.S. – Brake light switch (SE6 model) if transmission in gear) – Electrical cables/connections – ECM. If fuse F8 continuously blows, isolate the following components to determine the source of the short circuit: – Pre-starting relay – Starter solenoid – Heated oxygen sensors – EVAP purge valve – Fuel pump – D2 diode – Clutch solenoid valve (SM6 model) – Camshaft position sensor – Reverse actuator relay (R1). On SM6 model: – If starter cranks only with the clutch lever depressed, verify the GBPS (gearbox position sensor) and its circuits. Refer to GEARBOXsubsection. – If starter cranks only in neutral, carry out the CLUTCH SWITCH CONTINUITY TEST

  2. #27
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    TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES Lights or Gauge do not come on when the Ignition Switch is turned ON 1. Check battery and battery cable condition. 2. Carry out an IGNITION SWITCH OPERATION TESTsee procedure in this subsection. Misfires or no Ignition Spark 1. Check fuse F6 in LH fuse box (LFB). 2. Ensure ignition coils are properly installed and connected. 3. Check spark plug(s), refer to SPARK PLUGSin this subsection. 4. Ensure the HIC connector (engine harness to main vehicle harness interconnect) is properly connected. Check condition of connector pins and ensure they are properly locked in the connector. Pay particular attention to pins 1, 2 and 3. 5. Carry out an ignition coil test using B.U.D.S.. Refer to IGNITION COILSin this subsection. PROCEDURES IGNITION SWITCH Ignition Switch Circuit Functions IGNITION SWITCH CIRCUIT FUNCTIONS PINS CIRCUIT FUNCTIONS A – G Ignition B – F Lights M – I Ignition circuit to ground Ignition Switch Operation Test Turn ignition switch ON. The following should come on: – Multifunction gauge (assuming it works) – LH and RH marker lights – License plate light – LH and RH taillights. If Nothing Came ON, Check the Following in this Order: 1. J4 main fuse in LH fuse box (LFB). 2. Fuses F1 (RFB) and F2 in (LFB) (both must be blown for complete quick test failure). 3. Voltage at J4 fuse input terminal. If there is no voltage, check for an open circuit between battery and LH fuse box. If there is voltage, check for an open circuit between J4 fuse and fuses F1 (RFB) and F2 (LFB). If Lights Came ON but the Multifunction Gauge did not, Check the Following in this Order: 1. Fuse F2 in LH fuse box. 2. Main relay R3 in LFB and related circuits, refer to POWER DISTRIBUTION AND GROUNDS subsection and the WIRING DIAGRAM. 3. Multifunction gauge connector, and associated circuits. 4. Carry out an IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT VOLTAGE TEST (TO ECM) . Ignition Switch Output Voltage Test (to ECM) NOTE: This circuit provides the ECM wake-up voltage signal. 1. To gain access to the ECM connector, refer to ECM LOCATION ACCESSin ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION (EFI)subsection.

  3. #28
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Ya that darn DESS thing is a real pain for a lot of people!! If I had any problems with it I would delete it!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  4. #29
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    Its going to need some tests before the issue can be resolved. Usually the DESS will not let you start the bike and show the orange key on the display. And the Antenna plugs into the DESS module from the Key swutch.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member mastertek2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    Engine Cranking Conditions SM6 Model The following conditions must be met to allow engine cranking: – Ignition switch ON – Emergency engine stop switch to RUN – Mode button pressed in once (safety message acknowledgement) – Transmission in neutral (or in gear with clutch lever depressed) – Brake pedal depressed – D.E.S.S. recognizes the key – Start button pressed in. SE6 Model The following conditions must be met to allow engine cranking: – Ignition switch ON – Emergency engine stop switch to RUN – Mode button pressed in once (safety message acknowledgement) – Transmission in neutral – Brake pedal depressed – D.E.S.S. recognizes the key – Start button pressed in. NOTE: If the transmission was not in neutral when the engine was shut off, the HCM (hydraulic control module) will automatically shift the transmission to neutral at the next engine start to allow engine starting (if there is sufficient oil pressure). The parking brake state will not affect engine cranking. TROUBLESHOOTING TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS It is good practice to check for fault codes using B.U.D.S.as a first troubleshooting step. Refer to COMMUNICATION TOOLS AND B.U.D.S. subsection. Refer to POWER DISTRIBUTION AND GROUNDS for fuses and relays information. Always refer to the WIRING DIAGRAMwhen troubleshooting an electrical circuit. Install a battery charger on jump start posts in front storage compartment for any tests that involve a prolonged "key ON" period. If battery voltage gets too low, test results can be altered. NOTICE Never force a multimeter probe into an electrical terminal. STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING If the gauge or lights do not come on when ignition switch is ON, refer to TROUBLESHOOTING in IGNITION SYSTEMsubsection. If gauge and lights come ON with the ignition switch ON and starter does not engage, start your testing sequence by carrying out STARTER OPERATION TESTin this subsection.
    Well now that you say that the bike is in Reverse

  6. #31
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    I vote for crap in the fuel system. Since there is a coil on each of the spark plugs it would have to be a primary electrical power fault to cause all three plugs to have no spark. From what I've read here on SL since the introduction of the 1330 engine flooding the fuel system dos not seem to be the problem with the engine that some V-twin owners experienced. It appears to me a technician may have to get up close and personal with the Spyder and B.U.D.S. to accurately diagnose the problem. I can tell you from my own experience getting a bad tank of gas, full of water, when the bike was a shade over a year old and had 11.4K on the clock. I got maybe a half mile from the C-store/gas station the engine sputtered and stalled maybe three times than would not start at all. Fortunately there was a dealership only 16 miles away. B.E.S.T. roadside assist covered the rollback and the oil company that owned the station covered all the shop expense for the dealership to purge and flush the system. It has run like a finely tuned watch for 56K and five years since the bad fuel episode.
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastertek2000 View Post
    Well now that you say that the bike is in Reverse
    There ya go. So with the SE6 it should be started in Neutral and should go there automatically assuming you have a SE6? Manual has to have clutch pulled in or in Neutral to start. But sounds like you are getting it to turn over?

  8. #33
    Very Active Member mastertek2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    There ya go. So with the SE6 it should be started in Neutral and should go there automatically assuming you have a SE6? Manual has to have clutch pulled in or in Neutral to start. But sounds like you are getting it to turn over?
    It’s the semi automatic it does crank how would I get it in neutral

  9. #34
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    I wonder hows it cranking if its in Reverse??

    Try pressing the paddle shifter and see if it shifts . BUT be careful if trying to start it and shifting , I would have your foot on the brake too. It should go into Neutral automatically when turned off and back on to restart.

    Is the bike moving when you are cranking it? It may not have enough RPM to engage the clutch to move.

  10. #35
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    NOTE: If the transmission was not in neutral when the engine was shut off, the HCM (hydraulic control module) will automatically shift the transmission to neutral at the next engine start to allow engine starting (if there is sufficient oil pressure). The parking brake state will not affect engine starting.

  11. #36
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    I would put my foot on the brake anyway! And it should be on the display what gear it's in, if the display isn't lit then maybe the battery needs a charge!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  12. #37
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    How would a person check the crank censer?
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  13. #38
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    It wont crank anyway if the brake is not pressed along with the other conditions that need to be met before it can crank.

  14. #39
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    No Fault codes stored??

  15. #40
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    It wont crank anyway if the brake is not pressed along with the other conditions that need to be met before it can crank.
    Mine will start in neutral with out brake peddle
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  16. #41
    Active Member guzzihack's Avatar
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    My '15 SE6 will also start without pressing brake pedal.
    2015 RT-S , RED/BLACK

  17. #42
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    With the SE6 transmission if the bike is in any gear other than Neutral the bike will not crank unless the brake pedal is depressed. It's a safety interlock. If the bike is in Neutral the brake pedal does not have to be depressed to start it.
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  18. #43
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Yes and he is giving us the impression that it's cranking and not in neutral!!! And I asked him if he could see the dash it should tell him what gear it's in and he hasn't said anything towards that ether!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  19. #44
    Very Active Member mastertek2000's Avatar
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    Yes it is in reverse and cranks when your foot is on the brake

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastertek2000 View Post
    Yes it is in reverse and cranks when your foot is on the brake
    They do that! They are even MEANT to do that!!

    The clutch on all SE6's is operated via oil pressure, so when the engine's not running, the clutch isn't engaged (cos there's NO oil pressure ) and even if you've left it in gear, it'll still roll around if the park brake's not on; and it would even start if there wasn't that foot-brake inter-lock/lock-out thingie!!


    The lock-out is there so that you CAN NOT start the engine if the trans is in gear but you don't have your foot on the brake; cos if you did start without the brake applied, the engine running would build oil pressure pdq, engage the clutch/trans with the engine, & maybe cause the Spyder to ryde off into the distance, potentially without a ryder aboard!!

    So the SE6's DON'T hafta be in neutral to crank the engine over &/or start, but if they AREN'T in neutral, you WILL hafta have your foot on the brake or the Spyder might take off unexpectedly! Simples, really!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-05-2020 at 12:38 AM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

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  21. #46
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    You still have to be in neutral to crank the engine. Per the manual as posted on #25.

    Wondering why his is still in reverse , since its a SE6 and should be in neutral?

  22. #47
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    I have had so many issues with this ethanol gas I still want to go to fuel on this one. Do you smell gas when your cranking it, like it may be flooded? And it don't even sputter? To the shop !!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  23. #48
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    To satisfy those that believe it must be in neutral, carefully move the gear selector shaft behind the body work by you left heel. It is a splined shaft not externally used on SE models. Again, carefully grasp the splines aligning the jaw teeth of good pliers, ideally vice grips, and find neutral. The shifter will spring back to center after each gear selection.

    As for no spark, did you try using starting fluid or was it just gasoline? Sometimes gasoline as starting fluid will not work well.

    Typically, these modern electronic ignitions, especially coil on plug are very reliable for many years and miles. Yes, it may have no spark. If true, I would say it is not coils since each spark plug has its own, and one failed coil would be a simpler misfire.

    Possibly the crankshaft sensor has failed, but they often toss a code and fail while the engine is running. Hopefully, it is not an engine computer issue, and again, they are pretty reliable.

    Have you previously done any tasks that may have upset some wiring or connectors?

    Outside of that, as mentioned trying the wide open throttle crank to clear a flooded engine has had good results for others in the past and would be my first tests as it is easy and quick.

    Possibly it is bad fuel as mentioned. Contending with that can be a bit of work. Myself, If suspected, I would disconnect the fuel line at the filter and install a hose with a restrictor, then engage the key and capture fuel in a clear glass jar. Inspect for water.

    If needed drain the tank in a similar manner.

    The restrictor may be needed as many 60 psi injection systems default off if a fuel line leak is suspected. Without a restrictor, the system builds no pressure and shuts down.

    All the best with it.

  24. #49
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    If its a neutral issue,gas,spark who knows we are not there.

    Its up to the OP to fill us in what was done up to this point. Trying to troubleshoot like this is impossible.



    Good Luck.

  25. #50
    Very Active Member mastertek2000's Avatar
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    ok so i drained the fuel replaced with fresh gass now i get a p0335 witch is a crankshaft position failure where is it located

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