What size Ramps to load Spyder onto trailer?

[GordonF3T]

Looking to get some ramps for my utility trailer to load the my F3T.

Trailer is 74"x8" and the bed height is 18"....

I am looking at 7 foot ramps for the front wheels and a 6 foot for the rear..

Will this work for loading and the front nose clearance or is the 6 footer to short for loading?

Thanks

[Mazo EMS2]

That'll work just fine. I used to do it this way. It will also help to use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer as well, to reduce the transition angle from the ramps to the deck

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Looking to get some ramps for my utility trailer to load the my F3T.

Trailer is 74"x8" and the bed height is 18"....

I am looking at 7 foot ramps for the front wheels and a 6 foot for the rear..

Will this work for loading and the front nose clearance or is the 6 footer to short for loading?

Thanks

Consider swapping the lengths. That way the Spyder will be closer to level as it goes up the ramps and approaches the trailer. You are going to drive it forward onto the trailer right?

[Peter Aawen]

Consider swapping the lengths. That way the Spyder will be closer to level as it goes up the ramps and approaches the trailer. You are going to drive it forward onto the trailer right?

Except, if you put a longer ramp in the middle, there's a good chance that the nose of your Spyder will scrape on that middle ramp before the front wheels even reach let alone start lifting on the outer shorter ramps?!

There again, maybe if you get the ramp lengths exactly right, you'll juuust be able to sneak it on?!

[Mikey]

That'll work just fine. I used to do it this way. It will also help to use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer as well, to reduce the transition angle from the ramps to the deck

I would not make it a habit of loading with out being attached to a vehicle, unless you have the tires trigged and and you have a set of rear jacks on the trailer, to much could go wrong with that set up! Second, with out being there to see what you have for a trailer and set up, it's hard to tell you what you need for ramps! I would go with a full ramp set up across the trailer if I could it's just one less thing to worry about trying to stay on going up and down, verses trying to hit everything just right! If you trailers 8' I would go with 8' ramps, longer is better, so you don't scrub the nose!! And the only other thing I would do is make them so they hook into the trailer some way so that they don't kick out on you!! Did that with a four wheeler years ago, was quit a ride, I was a lot more nibble back then!!!Good luck, be safe and go slow the first few times!!

[Mazo EMS2]

I would not make it a habit of loading with out being attached to a vehicle, unless you have the tires trigged and and you have a set of rear jacks on the trailer, to much could go wrong with that set up! Second, with out being there to see what you have for a trailer and set up, it's hard to tell you what you need for ramps! I would go with a full ramp set up across the trailer if I could it's just one less thing to worry about trying to stay on going up and down, verses trying to hit everything just right! If you trailers 8' I would go with 8' ramps, longer is better, so you don't scrub the nose!! And the only other thing I would do is make them so they hook into the trailer some way so that they don't kick out on you!! Did that with a four wheeler years ago, was quit a ride, I was a lot more nibble back then!!!Good luck, be safe and go slow the first few times!!

I wasn't talking about loading without being hooked up to a vehicle. That could get ugly!! I raise the front of the trailer with it hooked up.

[Mikey]

Mazo, wasn't trying to steal your fire, just didn't him to get the wrong idea, and go down a bad road and wreck something! I have rented a car trailer from Uhaul a couple times that you could do that to, but it was set up right!!

[Gwolf]

My equipment trailer is about 18 inches at the rear. I use some 3X10 boards about 8 feet long on the outside and my 4 foot tractor loading ramps in the center. I jack the front on the trailer up some to decrease the angle at the top of the ramps. It works fine. Never come close to scraping at the top of the ramps. I do have rear jacks on the trailer, but still leave it hooked to the truck when loading.

I even run my zero turn mower up on the outside ramps and strap it in place to change the blades.

[Wmoater]

Instead of raising the trailer while attached to the truck, take 2 2x8 16" long boards, screw them together and cut 45 degrees on the ends. Then place them in front of the truck rear tire and drive up on it. That will raise the front of the trailer easier and not hurt the jack. I have 2 toy haulers. A fifth wheel fuzion and a short bumper work and play. If I am in a parking place or on the road with the front end of the truck running down hill I will do this with both and 3" of rear wheel raise depending on the length of the trailer can drop the rear end of the trailer some 6" or more. Much faster and easier. I can grab the blocks place infront of tires and drive up in about 2 minutes. Leave them under the tires, run and reload and drive away. Just a thought. Therefore it is attached to the vehicle so it can't kick up and you are not having to crank and uncrank so hard and it doesn't hurt the jack. For your short trailer lower to the ground I bet 7' ramp will be perfect 1 angle from the ground to the front of the trailer if you raise the rear vehicle tire. Then you can't hit anything. It would be like a snowmobile trailer that tilts but you are extending the tilt by adding the ramps. One other thing......... Use a ratchet strap from the ramps to the frame of the trailer so the center ramp doesn't kick out. Seen that happen with a four wheeler and side by side several times.

[Gwolf]

It won't damage the jack on the front of my equipment trailer to lift the whole rear end of the truck up. The jack will lift the trailer to disconnect with a front end loader tied down on the trailer. It is a heavy duty trailer. Might not want to lift the rear of the truck with a light jack on a utility trailer.

[ChicagoSpyder]

Looking to get some ramps for my utility trailer to load the my F3T.

Trailer is 74"x8" and the bed height is 18"....

I am looking at 7 foot ramps for the front wheels and a 6 foot for the rear..

Will this work for loading and the front nose clearance or is the 6 footer to short for loading?

Thanks

You could install a bi-fold ramp gate on the trailer and just be done with dicking around with strapping and stowing ramps.

[south GA Farm Boy]

First of all, you need a trailer at least 10ft long and 6 foot wide! A 6 by 12 ft would be even better! When I load my 2018 F3 Limited on my 10 ft trailer, I have very limited distant between the front of Spyder and the rear when the tail gate is closed. I place two 6 inch boards on each side of the gate where the front wheels will go up and the front of the Spyder will clear the mess wire gate to load and to unload! My trailer I had build with under slung axles and 14 inch wheels to get it as low to the ground as I could, and it's still not perfect, but usable! My F3 is longer than my previous two RT Limited were!

[blacklightning]

I have a modified Kendon 2 bike trailer that I use for my F3T. The rear is about 12" off the ground. I took 2, 6' ramps and cut them down to 4' long. I drilled 2 holes through the flat part of the ramp and use a pin to connect them to the trailer so they don't move. After pulling the front of the spyder onto the trailer, I set the brake and have someone (If not, I do it myself) move one of the ramps to the middle, and remove the other one. Then I pull the bike the rest of the way onto the trailer. I wish I could download the photos, but I have been having trouble with the site lately when it comes to pictures.

[Gwolf]

I have a modified Kendon 2 bike trailer that I use for my F3T. The rear is about 12" off the ground. I took 2, 6' ramps and cut them down to 4' long. I drilled 2 holes through the flat part of the ramp and use a pin to connect them to the trailer so they don't move. After pulling the front of the spyder onto the trailer, I set the brake and have someone (If not, I do it myself) move one of the ramps to the middle, and remove the other one. Then I pull the bike the rest of the way onto the trailer. I wish I could download the photos, but I have been having trouble with the site lately when it comes to pictures.

There is a channel on the rear of my trailer that all my ramps will slip into to prevent them from kicking off the trailer. All the ramps have an angle iron lip on the top that locks into the channel. They can slide from side to side, but must be lifted to take them out of the channel.

You can see the channel on the rear of the trailer that the ramp lip slips into. The green paint marks on the rear are for placement of the ramps to load the tractor. I don't haul the Spyder enough to paint ramp marks for it, but it loads easy and does not come close to hitting. Once the nose is on the trailer, there is plenty of clearance under the rest of the scooter.